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Little Input + 12V Cummins Swap

It's like you get to pay for your very own aftermarket designed scary steering entry.
 
It's just crazy to me that the steering block would cause so much trouble. On the half tons the raised steering arm seems to be the preferred method.
 
It's like you get to pay for your very own aftermarket designed scary steering entry.
LOL..I dunno why they were not designed like the 1/2 ton bolt holes w a tapered split ring that recesses down the bore and clamps as it tightens..

It's just crazy to me that the steering block would cause so much trouble. On the half tons the raised steering arm seems to be the preferred method.
Andy, I think the 1/2 ton steering arm to knuckle connection is better even if its only 3 fasteners..
 
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LOL..I dunno why they were not designed like the 1/2 ton bolt holes w a tapered split ring that recesses down the bore and clamps as it tightens..


Andy, I think the 1/2 ton steering arm to knuckle connection is better even if its only 3 fasteners..

This is why I prefer a dropped Pitman arm myself.
 
Did you leave your rear axle in the stock location or move it back some?
Morning oldtoyboyd, I considered it for a couple minutes but ended up leaving it in the stock location for now. Initially I was going to use zero rates front and back but for some unexplaned reason I didn't want use one on top of the lift block in the rear. I ended up adding two of the leafs rear pack. When I do a shackle flip I may take a look at it again..I'd like to do a shackle flip, remove 1 or 2 leafs and add the zero rate; or whatever looks like it will work for 38-40"ers...
 
i used flips and a block on mine. I had the block drilled to move my axle back two inches. I believe I found out after the fact that you can reverse your springs and it will set the axle back two inches. Just measure from the center pin both ways to verify.
 
i used flips and a block on mine. I had the block drilled to move my axle back two inches. I believe I found out after the fact that you can reverse your springs and it will set the axle back two inches. Just measure from the center pin both ways to verify.
Oh nice, is your avitar your truck? I've always loved that truck, I really like that factory green. Do you have a build thread or do you have any pics on here?
Nice job BL. Two feet of snow up here, more on the way. Going sledding if it warms up to double digits
Thanks Dad...
 
Oh nice, is your avitar your truck? I've always loved that truck, I really like that factory green. Do you have a build thread or do you have any pics on here?
That's my 1991 crewcab in my avatar. I didn't do a build thread on it. If you don't mind, I will pic whore a little so you can see how mine is set up.
Stock
stock1.jpg

Front
crewcab1.jpg

Side
crewcab4.jpg

Front Axle
front1.jpg

Rear Axle
rear1.jpg

Being Used
tow4.jpg

My front axle is moved forward 1.5 inches and my rear axle is moved rearward 2 inches.
 
By all means, thanx for the pix! But you now have to list the specs...Gears, lift(front/rear), steering (looks like the box is tapped), power, what worked, what didn't... Tell tell...
 
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By all means, thanx for the pix! But you now have to list the specs...Gears, lift, steering, power, what worked, what didn't... Tell tell...
Gears are 3.73, picked them for the Cummins I have to put in it
Front D60 lift- 8" superlift springs, zero rates, extended shackles moved 1.5" forward
Rear van width 14BFF lift- shackle flips, 3" blocks, extended shackles moved 2" rearward
Steering- ORD crossover, PSC 2wd box, PSC hydraulic assist
It's an all power truck
I took way too long planning it out, so everything worked out when I put it on the truck
 
Sure, I'll give you any more info that you want. I like the look of your h1 wheels on yours. I have a set that I might put on mine after seeing yours.
 
when you do a shackle flip, plan on moving the rear axle back. that flip shoves the axle forward a bunch. my 56s are in backwards so i should be 4" back ( k5 rear) but it only ends up being 2" due to the flip.

dont mind the shackle angle. it needs fixed

pic whore on

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The shackle flip does move your rear axle forward. After the flip my tire is only about 2" or so from the front of the opening in the quarter panel. I'm not worried about the tire hitting the quarter panel because I know the shackle is on the back of the spring and therefore the wheel will move backwards as the spring compresses. If I ever got some larger tires, I would have to do something though. It looks kind of weird too once you stare at it too. Thanks for making me self councious about my truck's looks, ck5 members. Now I'm going to have to put it on a diet or something to regain its self esteem.:haha:
 
my first rear suspension was stock 52's/shackle flip/3" blocks. and my 42's where touching the front of the rear wheel wells at ride hight. that was reason enough to go 56's backwards a week later. i wasnt expecting that.
 
my first rear suspension was stock 52's/shackle flip/3" blocks. and my 42's where touching the front of the rear wheel wells at ride hight. that was reason enough to go 56's backwards a week later. i wasnt expecting that.
Interesting, myabe I'll shackle flip-w-very minimal lift springs remove a leaf or tow and use my other zero rates...
 
LOL..I dunno why they were not designed like the 1/2 ton bolt holes w a tapered split ring that recesses down the bore and clamps as it tightens..


Andy, I think the 1/2 ton steering arm to knuckle connection is better even if its only 3 fasteners..

I could have sworn my stock steering arm had the tappered/split cone washers in it. As for the steering block, I ran on for quite a while on my CC with stock steering and then with crossover(several years this way in fact) and never had an issue with it.

Oh, and I was not nice to the truck during that time either. Ever seen a CC fly off the leeward side of 10 foot sand dune? Front tires must have made it at least 15' in the air. Thought I was about to die.

Back to your truck. Very nice CC. I really like the stance of the 37's and the amount of lift you currently have. The red paint with the black wheels go together very nicely, too.
 
I could have sworn my stock steering arm had the tappered/split cone washers in it. As for the steering block, I ran on for quite a while on my CC with stock steering and then with crossover(several years this way in fact) and never had an issue with it.

Oh yeah? D44 or D60? Funny you mentioned this at this point because I was just thinking about this last night. I was wondering; when offering a steering block there should be two thin carbon steel plates included one for the knucle side and one for the arm side, These plates would be slightly bigger than the block, maybe 1/2" all the way around, fit tight top and bottom and have 4 tabs; two pointing up on opposing sides and two pointing down on opposing sides in order to prevent the thing from rotating... You know what I mean... Or.... the blocks outter diameter could be a little bigger and a lets say 1/4" recess could be milled into it top and bottom so it sits down over the knucle and the arm rests down into the top.... IMHO thats the problem with these farkers, that they want to turn... But then again no need to reinvent the POS that shouldnt be used anyway... I just got my dropped DL from a member on here, (thank you ChickenRammit!) that I'm gunna use for the time being...
 
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