CK5
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"Lock Jaw" the 1979 Stepside

so the PO said he tacked the tubes on the frame to have something to level the frame off of, what he didnt do was tack the bigger tubes behind them and i didnt check them before we left. Ya the big tubes were not attached and road there the whole way home on the freeway. I went out to check the BOM last night and my kid just grabs one and moves it to the side lol

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The truck has sat for over a year, had a weird charging issue and i just parked it and started gathering parts. Yesterday I was going to move it and decided i would see if it would start (i pulled the battery cable when parked), hooked the cable up, then pulled the toyota up and and hooked up jumper cables before even trying anything, dumped a little gas in the carb, hit the key and it fired right away... then the starter got stuck lol. Shut it off and it was still cranking, run around and pull the cable, touch the cable to the battery and it cranks, pull the cable and smack the solenoid a few times, touch the cable to the battery and it cranks. At this point im like screw it, I only have to move it one time before tearing it down, touch the cable to the battery reach up and grab the throttle on the carb and it starts spitting fuel all over the engine, lost a seal in the priming pump. So i just end up towing it.

Walk in the house.
wife "you had to tow it huh?"
Me "ya, but it did start"
 
So I dont know if you are like me but I get pissed off at a rig and dont want to touch it... Thats the suburban right now. So back to work on the stepside.

The other week the kid and I went out and cleaned the bed out, pulled it, and pulled the "wood" out.

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The youngster can crawl around on the ground lol

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I need to pull the springs and throw new bushings in, install the ORD shackle flip, pull the fuel tanks, fix up things on the bed and reinstall. I am going to put a blazer fuel tank in, but have to decide how far into the bed floor to recess it and how to configure the floor around it and what to use. Thinking about using composite deck material

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I bought that parts truck with the one tons a while back, went out and pulled the covers and the Dana 60 is 4.10 and the 14BFF is 3.73 and open, now I have the ability to re-gear it to match the front but thats $500-600 when I can go buy a 14BFF 4.10 with (what im guessing right now is) a gov-lock for $100

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He already had it pulled mostly apart in his shop, spins freely, already popped the drums off the hubs since I am going disc. The spindle nuts and retainers are gone but luckily I have 2 other 14 bolts with 3.73 gears I can scavenge those from.
 
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My paint booth while I wait for new brakes, seals, and bearings to show up

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Ive seen several people talk about how brushed on paint is a lot sturdier than spray painting things like axles and frames and I can already see that as the 12 bolt i built was spray painted and the paints already messed up and its not even in the truck yet. The only brush on black paint i could find in town was high temp bbq paint or chalkboard paint, and while using the massive 14 bolt diff cover as a chalkboard sounded like a fun idea, it also didnt lol.
 
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Not sure if it was the guy I got the axle from or the neighbor he said he got it from but someone put a bunch of tape and rags on the spindles

after peeling the tape off that i could
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wire wheeled and wiped off with brake cleaner
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the short side was not as lucky
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after the wire wheel
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I need opinions, should it be ok to run or does the pitting look too bad? I have 2 other 14 bolts that I could swap the carrier and gears from this one into.
 
I ran a 14 bolt with minor pitting on the outer bearing surface but it was nothing like that. If you’ve got others, I’d use one of them.
 
I ran a 14 bolt with minor pitting on the outer bearing surface but it was nothing like that. If you’ve got others, I’d use one of them.
that's what i figured and was afraid off, well $100 bucks for good gears, gov-loc carrier, and extra shafts lol.
 
went out tonight and pulled the rear leaf springs to put new bushings in and start the shackle flip. Started popping the old pushing out when i noticed that both spring packs have broken leaves

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so now I have to decide if I just use the leafs attached to the 14 bolt in the parts truck (pending inspection) or I have a set of 64" springs from a 2015 2500HD which brings a whole nother round of issues to overcome
 
Last night I went out and pulled the cab off the parts truck frame so I can pull the axles and suspension components I got to looking at the frame again to maybe just use it. Earlier I had thought about using this frame but the PO cut the frame horns off and cut the back behind the spring hangers.

I am wondering though if I "need" the front frame horns with using an A-Bomb bumper? I know the bumper will be missing 3 bolts on each side but it will still have 8 bolts on each side holding it.
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And on the rear it looks like I will be missing the two rear bed mounts but I can add a mount to the top of the pieces sticking out, may even keep the rear winch mount even though it will be tucked beneath the bed
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The fun is about to begin dissecting this thing
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But it shouldn't be to hard as most of it is tacked and such quality fitment
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Yesterday after work was productive, it only took 2 cutoff wheels, 5 sawzall blades, porta-band, and the plasma cutter and im still not done lol

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the driver side is detached from the frame and about half of the passenger side

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Im thinking about leaving this double crossmember in as long as its not in the way of the drivetrain, it has the pass through on the other side of it also

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went out tonight and finished removing the extra metal

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might have gotten a little zealous

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but thats what we have welders for right?

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then of course as I always do, I think a little first, then jump in, then think more and realize I should have thought more. I got to looking at the frame .... yup... it s long bed and not a short bed. o_0

It wouldnt be such a big deal, just blow out the rivets holding the front spring eye hangers except the PO threw probably 5 pounds of welding wire at them. Right now im debating on shortening the frame behind the cab or just pull the bits and pieces I want off this frame and go back to the original frame.
 
small update, I pulled the axles and suspension out from under the frame. then been busy working on the suburban, scouts, and life. The truck has a TH350/NP203 in it but I wanted to manual swap it, last night I picked up an SM465/NP208 for $75. Its got a mechanical bellhousing so I am on the lookout for a cheap hydraulic bell, I already have a new clutch, new flywheel, and iirc a new/updated shifter

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small update, I pulled the axles and suspension out from under the frame. then been busy working on the suburban, scouts, and life. The truck has a TH350/NP203 in it but I wanted to manual swap it, last night I picked up an SM465/NP208 for $75. Its got a mechanical bellhousing so I am on the lookout for a cheap hydraulic bell, I already have a new clutch, new flywheel, and iirc a new/updated shifter

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I have a hydraulic bell but nothing else
 
so now that summer camp is over and the trip with the wife to Mexico is over and the weather is more manageable, lets back to work on this.

went out the other night and pulled the carriers and pinions from the bad housing with 4.10's and the good housing with 3.73's
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last night i installed the 4.10's, pinion guard, and new diff cover but realized after glueing it on I lost the bolts, so I gotta run in after work and pick some up. Then I can finish cleaning the housing and slap some paint on it.
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