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Locker vs. spool vs. welded

78SWB

78SWB

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Trying to decide what to do. I want to drive it on the street still, but I don't want to spend the cash on a new locker. I had a Detroit in the K10 and it worked flawlessly. I've been planning on getting a mini spool cause they're cheap. Never really considered welding 'till recently, but I'm still skeptical about doing it.

Also, if anyone has a cheap 14BFF Detroit they'd part with, PM me :).
 
A spool or welding would be harsh on the street. Without your rear axle differentiating, your rear tires would get chewed to pieces. A Lock-Rite (A.K.A lunch box locker) type locker would be a lower cost alternative. You would need an open diff type carrier housing to install it in, if you do not already have one. The draw back I have read about on Lock-Rite type lockers is that they are sensitive to incorrect clearances in the carrier housing or axle tubes, and will lock-up and not un-lock.

In the "For sale" section of this web site I saw a guy selling a brand new in the box Detroit for about $50 less than a new one from a store. I do not know if it is still there.
 
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Locked rear end on the street is awful ! If you're not too heavy footed or running anything bigger than 35s I'd go for a Lockrite or similar.
 
So ive done quite a bit of research on this very problem. If youre going to spool it you may as well just weld it. The down side is obviously that its going to chirp like crazy around every corner and more of thos tire nubs will be missing lol.

I trailer my truck to the trail but i really want to drive it more on the street once its done. That said it seems like a welded/spooled rear would be a real pain in the ass. The lock rites have so so reviews. There obviously a smaller unit but from what ive seen around the net people say detroit or bust. Theres yukon ones as well which are $50 cheaper then the open diff detroit.

$650 bucks for the full unit is a bit rich for me. I have a damn gov lock, cant find an open carrier.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
So ive done quite a bit of research on this very problem. If youre going to spool it you may as well just weld it. The down side is obviously that its going to chirp like crazy around every corner and more of thos tire nubs will be missing lol.

I trailer my truck to the trail but i really want to drive it more on the street once its done. That said it seems like a welded/spooled rear would be a real pain in the ass. The lock rites have so so reviews. There obviously a smaller unit but from what ive seen around the net people say detroit or bust. Theres yukon ones as well which are $50 cheaper then the open diff detroit.

$650 bucks for the full unit is a bit rich for me. I have a damn gov lock, cant find an open carrier.
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The Detroit is only about $100 more than a cheap "Lunch Box", if you already have the carrier housing, which is why there is no reason to waist money on a "Lunch Box" locker. This would be a good reason for "Detroit or die". There are companies that sell new open carrier housings for about $165 to $175.
 
1-ton said:
The Detroit is only about $100 more than a cheap "Lunch Box", if you already have the carrier housing, which is why there is no reason to waist money on a "Lunch Box" locker. This would be a good reason for Detroit or die.
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True. Just wishing i didnt have the gov bomb.

skunked said:
$70 for a carrier at Pick and Pull
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Hmm. might have to do that. Thats a fairly easy pull.
 
Ok, I'll add my .02 --

I used to have a 14 bolt with a Detroit and ran it in a K10 (both 4spd & auto) with 38's, 39's and 44's. It chirped the tires a lot in slow tight turns but didn't seem to exaggerate the tire wear (beyond typical bias ply mud tire wear). I noticed it unlocking & locking a lot with the 4 spd, not so much with the auto. As for drivability it was fine, zero complaints.

I later installed this in a 14 bolt in a V3500 with an auto and 35's, I could not tell it was there at all.

I now have a D70HD with a spool in a K5 with a 4spd and 43's. It doesn't really chirp at all, could be tire compounds, axle shaft flex (aftermarket), who knows... No input on wear as I only have a hundred or so miles on it. For drivability, it's VERY noticeable at low speeds, slow tight turns feel like I'm dragging heavy weight otherwise it's fine. There's no pushing it around with the motor off. At times it seems like it leaves the truck bound up with it leaning a while after a turn street driving (this could be from the softer 52/56 springs without shocks, they do feel way different from regular lift springs).

All of my experience is in the South, lots of rain but no snow. Also, no towing.

As for welding, I've done it on a front axle. My experience with this isn't really applicable to the rear other than to say - weld the crap out of it! Don't tack it, don't make it pretty, absolutely melt that that thing in to a ball of metal. I never understand people that do the small weld jobs on a diff, after the first spark it's all junk so kill it.
 
nvrenuf said:
Ok, I'll add my .02 --

I used to have a 14 bolt with a Detroit and ran it in a K10 (both 4spd & auto) with 38's, 39's and 44's. It chirped the tires a lot in slow tight turns but didn't seem to exaggerate the tire wear (beyond typical bias ply mud tire wear). I noticed it unlocking & locking a lot with the 4 spd, not so much with the auto. As for drivability it was fine, zero complaints.

I later installed this in a 14 bolt in a V3500 with an auto and 35's, I could not tell it was there at all.

I now have a D70HD with a spool in a K5 with a 4spd and 43's. It doesn't really chirp at all, could be tire compounds, axle shaft flex (aftermarket), who knows... No input on wear as I only have a hundred or so miles on it. For drivability, it's VERY noticeable at low speeds, slow tight turns feel like I'm dragging heavy weight otherwise it's fine. There's no pushing it around with the motor off. At times it seems like it leaves the truck bound up with it leaning a while after a turn street driving (this could be from the softer 52/56 springs without shocks, they do feel way different from regular lift springs).

All of my experience is in the South, lots of rain but no snow. Also, no towing.

As for welding, I've done it on a front axle. My experience with this isn't really applicable to the rear other than to say - weld the crap out of it! Don't tack it, don't make it pretty, absolutely melt that that thing in to a ball of metal. I never understand people that do the small weld jobs on a diff, after the first spark it's all junk so kill it.
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:weld:
 
Weld it until you get really sick of it while saving some cash.

Then pull the carrier and put the Detroit in :D

What are they like $450 new? They pop up on pirate here and there for cheap, just gotta be quick.
 
I'll agree with nvrenuf on this one.

Ran a welded rear for a long time. Tires wore a bit faster but not so much as to think "wow, I really need a locker."

Got a Detroit in the current DD, still chirps the tires around the corners, whatever. I'm sure the tires are wearing almost as fast as the welded/spool. Most corners I accelerate through which would have the Detroit locked up.

My current build is getting a selectable, front and rear. Best of both worlds. Open for everyday. Locked when I want it and only then.
 
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