Guy just bought all the axle shafts, rotors, hubs, and spindles off of a HP ford axle. Welded front, stuff went poof. A lot of stuff..just saying
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Locker vs. spool vs. welded
- Thread starter 78SWB
- Start date
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
For me,
I know damn well I'm not the kind to let up off the gas in a turn. I drive with purpose...so maybe the locker would never ratchet...
I know damn well I'm not the kind to let up off the gas in a turn. I drive with purpose...so maybe the locker would never ratchet...
You never notice it ratcheting?
Sometimes I can notice it, but very rarely. It probably has something to do with me running 5 psi and having 38.5's.
I never noticed my Detroit ratcheting, the only time I ever noticed it was when it locked up. Occasionally, after making a turn I could feel a jolt and hear a loud ping once I was running straight again. It didn't happen often, maybe once every 6 months.
Mine worked the opposite, was always locked. Excepted for that rare moment every 6 months it would unlock.
stupidfocker...
This is what I was trying to say. Mine was always locked, the only time I ever noticed it was on the rare occasion it unlocked and the locked back up. I never felt the unlocking or ratcheting, only felt it locking again.
My Detroit works flawlessly. I wonder if being a full case locker in the 9.5" version has something to do with it, rather than being the drop in for the 10.5".
It doesn't pop or bang at all, and unless I really hit the gas in a turn, it never squaks a tire.
It doesn't pop or bang at all, and unless I really hit the gas in a turn, it never squaks a tire.
I've ran a welded 14FF in the rear of my K5 for well over 10 years now, basically whenever I swapped in the 14FF back in the day. My thoughts were to try it out because it was free and then upgrade to a Detroit if needed. Well......still have the welded diff. With the 14FF you can easily weld just the spider gears to make a mini-spool which lets you easily swap in a Detroit if you decide down the road. I have ran it with 35's, 38's, and 39.5's over that time. While this thing was never my daily driver with the welded diff it did get driven to and from the trails and I drove it fairly regularly to work and such for many years. The rear tires did wear quicker than the fronts but it wasn't extreme. As mentioned above it is noticeable during low speed sharp turning maneuvers in parkings lots and such but never really a problem. I don't notice anything at higher speeds including up to 70 mph back in the day (the current unbalanced trail rashed 39.5's don't allow that fast).
If it was my daily driver I probably wouldn't want the welded diff, or a spool. But for a weekend trail toy I think it is a good and cheap option. I was one of the first in our club to run a welded or spooled rear diff and now it is pretty common on trail rigs because it works and is cheap. There are several guys who also run welded or spooled front diffs on their trail rigs now, but do prefer something like a Detroit or Lock-right.
If it was my daily driver I probably wouldn't want the welded diff, or a spool. But for a weekend trail toy I think it is a good and cheap option. I was one of the first in our club to run a welded or spooled rear diff and now it is pretty common on trail rigs because it works and is cheap. There are several guys who also run welded or spooled front diffs on their trail rigs now, but do prefer something like a Detroit or Lock-right.
