CK5
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Long standing pulsating vibration issue that I need help solving
- Thread starter Ramba_ral
- Start date
The 700r4 has a deeper 1st gear so it helps on take off, and the overdrive drops your rpm about 400rpm.
3.73 for 35" is not great unless you have big block, but if it works for you now it only gets better with the 700r4.
With drivelines off, there are only three possible causes (and connections in between):
Engine
Transmission
Tcase input
I would rule out input shaft on the tcase if you had the same vibration before and after replacing it with the rebuilt unit.
I would say motor vibrations you only need to inspect the harmonic balancer for rubber deterioration and the flexplate connection to the transmission. I don't remember if you mentioned anything about them in the last 5 pages. First page says you didn't inspect the harmonic balancer or fan clutch yet.
Transmission internals, you can change fluid and inspect the bottom of the pan for signs of excessive wear, but anything beyond that requires removal and tear down, then at that point you may as well go with a rebuilt and upgraded 700R4.
Connection between transmission and transfer case, should be a 27 spline sleeve over the transmission output and tcase input. You will only be able to inspect the sleeve fit for slop with the transmission out on both input/output shafts. If you have slop, best to buy a new sleeve.
Engine
Transmission
Tcase input
I would rule out input shaft on the tcase if you had the same vibration before and after replacing it with the rebuilt unit.
I would say motor vibrations you only need to inspect the harmonic balancer for rubber deterioration and the flexplate connection to the transmission. I don't remember if you mentioned anything about them in the last 5 pages. First page says you didn't inspect the harmonic balancer or fan clutch yet.
Transmission internals, you can change fluid and inspect the bottom of the pan for signs of excessive wear, but anything beyond that requires removal and tear down, then at that point you may as well go with a rebuilt and upgraded 700R4.
Connection between transmission and transfer case, should be a 27 spline sleeve over the transmission output and tcase input. You will only be able to inspect the sleeve fit for slop with the transmission out on both input/output shafts. If you have slop, best to buy a new sleeve.
I'll give the harmonic balancer a look. The flex plate and torque converter have been replaced trying to hunt this down to no real affect to the vibration.
Fluid has been looked at a couple of times. looks red and no bad stuff seen.
I actually had to replace the adaptor cause it was cracked and in the process I bought a new spline sleeve.
Can you give any details about the reason for the adapter damage ?
was cracked in several spots. didnt want to risk putting it back on
What about any conditions before you found it damaged ?
If your asking if the vibration was there before hand then yes.
I dont remember seeing anything else being wrong aside from the cracked adapter and the sleeve being worn. Granted this was several years ago
Just trying to put pieces of the puzzle together.
So far KENNYW’s advice is right on track - verify the harmonic possibility of slipping and then it most likely must be internal to the trans.
So far KENNYW’s advice is right on track - verify the harmonic possibility of slipping and then it most likely must be internal to the trans.
This looks totally off the hub on my phone
That harmonic balancer looks like it has rubber coming apart and separating from the metal. I think it is over due for a replacement.
Fluid dampeners are great but not necessary if your motor is fairly stock.
Keep in mind that even if you still have a problem after the balancer replacement it warrants replacing just as ongoing maintenance.
Keep in mind that even if you still have a problem after the balancer replacement it warrants replacing just as ongoing maintenance.
I really wish they put alignment marks on the inner and outer hubs for the harmonic balancers. It would give you a quick way to see if the outer hub started to move out of phase.
I went with Fluidampr on my 6.2L diesels because they are a lifetime part and can be moved from one engine to another, plus the 6.2L diesels are known for snapping cranks and cracked blocks from bad balancers. The small blocks are less sensitive and don't require the extra spend unless you have a high dollar built motor pushing the limits of the block.
I went with Fluidampr on my 6.2L diesels because they are a lifetime part and can be moved from one engine to another, plus the 6.2L diesels are known for snapping cranks and cracked blocks from bad balancers. The small blocks are less sensitive and don't require the extra spend unless you have a high dollar built motor pushing the limits of the block.
I always mark mine with a yellow paint pen, but that only helps when you know its good.
I see rub mark on the dampner as well. When the engine mount sag they can rub on the cross member.
The ground bolt in 1st picture doesn't look tight enough to me. It may be bottomed out.
The ground bolt in 1st picture doesn't look tight enough to me. It may be bottomed out.
theres a grove in the dampner.... Not sure where that came from. engine mounts are new and it doesnt seem like its sagging.
i waked out just to double check those grounds lol. its tight. it might look loose cause i have one of those star washers behind it
