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Look what BadAss90K5 scored!

Shop manual doesn't say anything about 1 time use bolts for these engines. OEM would use cummins bearings. with a cummins part number.

main #6 has the thrust bearing. crank end play spec Min-.004" Max-.017

main TQ 3 step. 1-44ftlb 2-88ftlb 3-130ftlb

rod cap TQ 3 step. 1-26ftlb 2-52ftlb 3-74ftlb

rod to crank side clearance Min- .004" Max-.012"

locktite and retorque all gearcase bolts to 18ftlb and coverbolts are 18ftlb too.
 
DEMON44 said:
Shop manual doesn't say anything about 1 time use bolts for these engines. OEM would use cummins bearings. with a cummins part number.

main #6 has the thrust bearing. crank end play spec Min-.004" Max-.017

main TQ 3 step. 1-44ftlb 2-88ftlb 3-130ftlb

rod cap TQ 3 step. 1-26ftlb 2-52ftlb 3-74ftlb

rod to crank side clearance Min- .004" Max-.012"

locktite and retorque all gearcase bolts to 18ftlb and coverbolts are 18ftlb too.
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So the bearings actually say "Cummins" or have the "C" logo on them?

I take it you have R&R'd caps on a Cummins and had it stay together? :D

I got another oil pan from the guy I got the engine from. I just need to get a pan gasket. I know I could get one from the local Dodge stealership, but I am going to also check with Cummins Rocky Mountain to see if they have better prices...
 
Dude, there are 4 Cummins suppliers within 5 miles of our houses! I have names and phone numbers so we need to check these out first. Rocky Mountain is like 35 miles away across town.
 
yes. the last B cummins I had the crank out of was 5 maybe 6 years ago. so the bearings are on memory.
 
BadAss90K5 said:
Dude, there are 4 Cummins suppliers within 5 miles of our houses! I have names and phone numbers so we need to check these out first. Rocky Mountain is like 35 miles away across town.
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I know there are others around, but CRM is THE sole distributor for the southwest US. In other words, everyone else has to buy from them and then mark their stuff up. So, unless they have a policy of nailing non-fleet customers full-boat, I'm gonna check with them on prices - remember, we need some hard parts like the proper oil pickup tube, and I'd like to not get ass raped :doah:

If a close place is cheaper, I'll buy it there, But If CRM is substantially cheaper, where it justifies the drive or shipping, then thats where I'm going to go :wink1:
 
DEMON44 said:
that was probably overhauled at one point and rods changed. factory stock rods don't have engraving marks like your WC 73683. probably why it looks so spick and span though, unless someone ran some ATF through the oil, or other detergent. I dunno. you got the pan off, pull a main and a rod cap. see what the bearings are. OEM or jobber, STD or oversided.....good a time as any to know what your working with.

See now why I'm never concerned about beating the tar out of my engines....size does matter :haha:
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Another sign is no yellow or white making on the head bolts from what I can see the long head bolts on the rocker stands have none ,Cummins marks then they leave the the line .
 
so i am seriously starting to consider this type of swap, but the $$ thing...
I know i could eventually find a running cummins for cheap, but its all the extras that would put me into the red big time.

What is a good dollar figure for the extras needed to complete a cummins swap into an SM465 equipped truck (that was already a 6.2 if that matters)?
 
not much for extras to kill you if you just do a straight engine swap. don't get caught up in mods. just bolt in a good runner and hit the road jack. but you will want an OD gear for running the road. no you don't have to have it but makes life soooo much better for driveability and fuel economy goes up. just my opinion.
 
bucksntrucks969 said:
so i am seriously starting to consider this type of swap, but the $$ thing...
I know i could eventually find a running cummins for cheap, but its all the extras that would put me into the red big time.

What is a good dollar figure for the extras needed to complete a cummins swap into an SM465 equipped truck (that was already a 6.2 if that matters)?
Click to expand...

Yeah with a 465 to drive it on the road you will either need tall gears and big tires or an OD unit.
I had it with 3.08 gears and 35" tires and still was hitting my stock governor at 60-65, I never really could exactly find out.
Fuel economy went down drastically when I drove it like that too.
 
This sucks...

I finally got around to pulling a rod and a main cap. The main bearings looked pretty good. Not "low mileage", but not bad:

r-DSCF2921.JPG


The rod bearings, OTOH, look used and abused:

r-DSCF2917.JPG


I looked up info on bearing wear, and the above looks like it was caused by mileage+lugging.

So, what to do... My concern is that if this motor has a pile of miles on it, what kind of shape are the injectors and IP in?

I figure my options are as follows:

1. Bolt it back together, clean it up, and sell it on Craigslist. I should get double what I paid, which would easily finish the 6.2 project. The 6.2 ain't a Cummins, but at least I KNOW what kind of shape it is in internally.

2. Bolt it back together and run 'er till she hangs a rod out the side. Probably not the best plan...

3. Throw a new set of bearings in (they are "std", and the crank journals looked OK) and run it. Hopefully the P-pump has plenty of life left in it :crazy:

I'm leaning toward option 3, but a bit of research is in order before I make a decision...
 
so long as the rings and cylinders are still half ass good. really the P7100 is not usually the first problem on the engine. IMHO throw bearings in it and run it.

if it was reman'd at some point, maybe the doofus who was driving the delivery van or whatever it was in was just hard on the engine. not necissarily a high miler. the main looks ok for sure though.


Did the governor springs arrive yet?
 
DEMON44 said:
so long as the rings and cylinders are still half ass good. really the P7100 is not usually the first problem on the engine. IMHO throw bearings in it and run it.
Click to expand...

Well, like I said before the motor didn't have ANY blowby. I don't know about the rings or upper cylinders, but the lower part of the cylinders which are visible look real nice. No steps or grooving. I will find out how much bearings are from Cummins tomorrow, but from NAPA they are under $200 for rods and mains...

if it was reman'd at some point, maybe the doofus who was driving the delivery van or whatever it was in was just hard on the engine. not necissarily a high miler. the main looks ok for sure though.
Click to expand...

Every delivery van driver I have ever seen who drives a stick-equipped van lugs the crap out of the engine.


Did the governor springs arrive yet?
Click to expand...

I don't know. I haven't talked to Brian since Friday... :dunno:
 
awesome. run it. :saweet:




I just horsetraded my holset HX40 for a switzer S366 66/71/14 for my 12v. :woot:


Say hey you guys how far is Showlow AZ from where you're at?
 
It's approx. 160 miles northeast of us. That's road distance IIRC. Since it is in the mountains it takes about 3.5-4 hours to get there from where we live, depending on traffic.
 
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