CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Loss of power.

The key warning chime is a different switch, just below the turn signal switch. The ignition switch is lower on top of the column.
 
Last edited:
The key chime switch is separate from the ignition switch. The chime switch could not cuase your engine running issue. The ignition switch or possibly the fuse links at starter could.
 
Maybe the pick-up coil in the distributor? How old, and what brand is the distributor? With no codes for sensors it’s gotta be ignition or fuel related. You said you have new wires, try them, I’ll go against the grain here and say start replacing all the ignition related parts one at a time. Possibly even replace the whole distributor. Truck is 30 years old, probably needs all new ignition components anyway. Use all AC Delco parts. Stay away from the cheap aftermarket ignition components
 
Last edited:
Hello it’s original to truck. I had distributor out about 6 months ago when I did the intake gasket. It was clean. I did cap/rotor then also. The wires New Year before. The ignition switch don’t return like it should and is sloppy. I remember my cousin used to drive down the street turn off ignition switch pump gas then turn switch back on. This would make it backfire. I’m thinking I probably moved switch while I was driving and since it’s sloppy plus contacts are worn/bad it moved enough to intermittently disrupted power. The ignition switch opens power to fuel pump. I will pickup new switch. We will see
 
I did a lot of work on it. I traced and inspected all the wires , cleaned and taped them like original. I also wrapped them with the wire loom material. I also cleaned all the connections and used the contact grease on all. I know the distributor can have minor cracks. I had the truck running last night and had a short drive. Everything ran good. I know now chim is separate but is activated by or disarmed thru ignition switch? I’m betting on the sloppy ignition switch and tomorrow I will install new one and look in-depth at old one. I know there’s several connections or more inside to deliver power and a spring to return it after start.
 
the chime switch is just under the turn signal switch. it is a small black plastic block with 2 copper contacts at the lock cylinder. the Ignition switch is located on the top of the column down under dash. The Ign switch is controlled by a rack and pinion connected to a long rod, and possibly a 2nd rod for your bright/dip switch. I'm not saying your ign switch is not your trouble, but you don't need to remove the wheel to check or change it.
 
Update, Ok Members I Thank you for all the input and help. It’s been a rough week already and it ain’t over yet. I removed cap/rotor. The contacts on both were blackish stained. They are Accel parts. The top under cap which fits on the spline is rusty. The pickup coil wires are brittle and twisted cracked. I pulled the distributor to repair install new pickup coil and whatever else it needs. Is there supposed to be some magnetic effect when shaft is spun ?? If so there isn’t any. I did purchase some AC Delco parts. Coil, pickup coil, module and ignition switch. Once I seen the condition of distributor just doing half a repair work won’t work so I pulled it. I hope I can find any other parts to rebuild it. I found several distributors on EBay and will at least purchase one or both as backup or use. If I could have found a new OEM AC Delco distributor I would have bought it to save time. I will check local part stores for additional rebuild parts. This might be a step in the right direction. Let’s see how it goes
 
Update, Ok Members I Thank you for all the input and help. It’s been a rough week already and it ain’t over yet. I removed cap/rotor. The contacts on both were blackish stained. They are Accel parts. The top under cap which fits on the spline is rusty. The pickup coil wires are brittle and twisted cracked. I pulled the distributor to repair install new pickup coil and whatever else it needs. Is there supposed to be some magnetic effect when shaft is spun ?? If so there isn’t any. I did purchase some AC Delco parts. Coil, pickup coil, module and ignition switch. Once I seen the condition of distributor just doing half a repair work won’t work so I pulled it. I hope I can find any other parts to rebuild it. I found several distributors on EBay and will at least purchase one or both as backup or use. If I could have found a new OEM AC Delco distributor I would have bought it to save time. I will check local part stores for additional rebuild parts. This might be a step in the right direction. Let’s see how it goes
Don’t buy a distributor on EBay. Either get the AC Delco remanufactured, ( they don’t make new anymore), or a new Delphi CZ20001, (this is new). Makes sense to just buy one of those complete, rather than replacing all the parts. Almost the same money (well not quite) and much easier to have one ready to drop in. You did mark position before pulling it right? Just thought I’d ask:waytogo:
 
Last edited:
I got an AC Delco distributed at a local parts store a few years back, I guess it’s been 8 years. Might have took a couple days to get in. Summit May also have them.
 
Hello Members I pretty much found all parts to rebuild my distributor. There’s a piece called a tang shim/washer and a washer. The washer shows some wear and tang washer doesn’t. What should the play or
Clearance be. It didn’t originally appear to have excessive lash or play.
 
Hello Members I pretty much found all parts to rebuild my distributor. There’s a piece called a tang shim/washer and a washer. The washer shows some wear and tang washer doesn’t. What should the play or
Clearance be. It didn’t originally appear to have excessive lash or play.

Are these what are above the gear? Pretty sure I've seen specs somewhere, but can't remember where.

It would take a lot of play to make an issue I think, as most of the interfacing components have a lot of vertical contact surface.
 
dyeager535. Yes it’s the one washer commonly called maybe a thrust washer. It fits front of gear. I purchased a new one to check the lash if I installed it. With the original one in it was .021 new one was slightly snugger. I forgot the correct terminology. So I just kept old one in. It didn’t show really any wear. The other part that fits before washer is called teng washer. It has three arms and each arm goes into bottom of distributor housing. So if somehow I guess the distributor has to much play or side movement it will show on these two pieces.
 
dyeager535. Yes it’s the one washer commonly called maybe a thrust washer. It fits front of gear. I purchased a new one to check the lash if I installed it. With the original one in it was .021 new one was slightly snugger. I forgot the correct terminology. So I just kept old one in. It didn’t show really any wear. The other part that fits before washer is called teng washer. It has three arms and each arm goes into bottom of distributor housing. So if somehow I guess the distributor has to much play or side movement it will show on these two pieces.

Someone at one point even made graduated thickness washers to shim endplay, I had purchased a set at the local speed shop when they were open. The one in the truck now is from 1988 and I didn't bother with end play. Just made sure parts didn't look really bad.
 
Top Bottom