Lost...Positraction and Open Carriers

[Operator238]

So I got new bearings and races. I tried hard to get at 16-20 in # preload but it looks like I’m about 22. Do I need to start over again?

 

[Operator238]

Ok I think I’ve done the best I can do, having never done this before.. I’m looking for judgement here.

New Bearings and Races
New Ring and Pinion
New Eaton TruTrac
New Pinion Crush Sleeve and Seal
Ring Gear Torqued to 80 Ft/#
Pinion Splines RTVd to prevent seepage
Pinion Preload 22 In/#
Ring Backlash .007
.220 Driver and .230 Passenger Shims
Main Caps Torqued to 55 Ft/#

Spins smooth by fingers with a hint of resistance. No end play at all on pinion.

I will run Lucas 80W-90 and change the fluid in 200 miles.

Am I good to go?

 

[Blue85]

I believe that's slightly toe-heel, so the drive side is towards the toe (inside) and the coast side is toward the heel (outside). The fix is supposed to be moving the pinion closer, but since you're already tight on backlash, that would require moving carrier shims around again. Overall, it looks pretty decent. I've only done about a 1/2-dozen setups, so hopefully a more experienced eye can chime in.

With your tight preload, I would put some oil through the pinion bearings, spin them around a bit and bang on the pinion with a rubber mallet or deadblow hammer to see if the races will settle and loosen it up a couple in-lb.

 

[Operator238]

Pro

I believe that's slightly toe-heel, so the drive side is towards the toe (inside) and the coast side is toward the heel (outside). The fix is supposed to be moving the pinion closer, but since you're already tight on backlash, that would require moving carrier shims around again. Overall, it looks pretty decent. I've only done about a 1/2-dozen setups, so hopefully a more experienced eye can chime in.

With your tight preload, I would put some oil through the pinion bearings, spin them around a bit and bang on the pinion with a rubber mallet or deadblow hammer to see if the races will settle and loosen it up a couple in-lb.

The problem, too is I couldn’t get all the old compound off when I set the pinion depth and pictures are a little bit deceiving, but if I had to say, I would say it’s square in the tooth forward and backwards upwards and downwards.

Pinion preload is a little tight, but I’m thinking that because their new bearings will settle in a little bit but the manual for Chevrolet says anywhere from 15 to 30 for new bearings

 

[Wes Harden]

I'd say your good. The extra 2 pd on the pinion preload is nothing to worry about.
Breaking in new gears involves heat cycles. Take for a 15-20 minute drive streets. Let it cool down. Do it again. 3rd time go for a short highway drive let it cool. You can do 1 or 2 more times if you like. Then it's good to use. 200 to 500 miles on the oil change your call

 

[Operator238]

I'd say your good. The extra 2 pd on the pinion preload is nothing to worry about.
Breaking in new gears involves heat cycles. Take for a 15-20 minute drive streets. Let it cool down. Do it again. 3rd time go for a short highway drive let it cool. You can do 1 or 2 more times if you like. Then it's good to use. 200 to 500 miles on the oil change your call

Yep! I’m gonna run it. I should have bought a better/ more expensive gear set. If I change anything- at this point- I’ll be chasing my tail. I think it’ll be fine

 

[Big Ray]

Good job. It just takes lotssss of patience.