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Lost...Positraction and Open Carriers

www.harborfreight.com

Bearing Separator and Puller Set

Amazing deals on this Bearing Separator And Puller Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

this set will be the least expensive. Or cut them off with a die grinder and cut off wheel. gently w/o scoring the bear surface on carrier, then it will need a good cleaning to remove debris. These bearings came in the gear install kit ? I am surprised they even started. part number and brand of kit ?
 
I was thinking the ID were different for the 2 different splines in the rear axle on the 10 bolt. Did a yukon griz locker on a buddy's rear 10 bolt and needed different bearing even thou had the small axles.
 
Hey guys let me know what you think. Is the indicator even in the right position?

I also removed the passenger main cap after

Video 1
(I do NOT have the main caps bolted down)



Video 2 (adjusted the position of the indicator in the teeth- mains torqued to 55#)


Also I marked my teeth, I never removed the pinion. Is this proper engagement?

IMG_8268.jpeg

IMG_8267.jpeg
 
that is to much back lash, shoot for .007", always check back lash with main caps torqued to spec. your pattern need to move ring gear closer to pinion gear. Which should reduce your back lash at same time.
Also if you can apply some resistance to the ring turning while checking your pattern this helps get a better read.
 
Wes Harden said:
that is to much back lash, shoot for .007", always check back lash with main caps torqued to spec. your pattern need to move ring gear closer to pinion gear. Which should reduce your back lash at same time.
Also if you can apply some resistance to the ring turning while checking your pattern this helps get a better read.
Click to expand...
So do I need to remove the pinion then? It’s original al I believe
 
No you need to adjust the side bearing shims. Add to driver side and remove from passenger side, equal amounts
 
Yes, the pattern is way too shallow. There's no guarantee that the pinion depth won't have to change, but chances are that with the original gear set, that depth will be very close to the same and the adjustments will be left to right, i.e. carrier shims. As you increase shims on DS and reduce on PS, the backlash will also decrease.
 
Operator238 said:
You will NOT get that differential from them if you bought in the 200 range. I called and they made a mistake and then took 2weeks to refund me. Clowns.
Click to expand...

I ordered the one for a 14 bolt semi float, it was on sale in the $250 range. I got it.
 
You want to keep the carrier bearing pre load the same, so you need to adjust both sides every time. .009 is getting close. Depending on your your shim selection it may be difficult to get that back lash reduced .001- .003". Measure again, making sure the pinion isn't moving while you do the check. That might be .001" right there.
At this moment might be close enough to run it. Need to see a pattern 1st
 
Found this laying in the bottom of the case. Have no idea what’s it from, too small to be from the main bearing. Anyways, so I’m adjusting both sides the same as each other like Wes mentioned. I measure 0.235” shims on each side. The back lash doesn’t change. It was better with adjusting just the driver side shim. I wish someone could just say, put X shims on each side, confirm it, and done.

IMG_0030.png

IMG_0029.png
 
I’m confused.

Can I not have more shims on the driver side versus the passenger side?

I ended up with .006” backlash (.005-.008 is preferred in the factory service manual). If I try to add the same amount on each side, I get no where.

Here’s the video and teeth pattern. With a flashlight I can see full engagement.


Whats my next step? Any issues? Am I done, Good job? Haha

IMG_0043.jpeg

IMG_0040.png
 
sorry for the confusion. In order to move the back lash you must shift the carrier left or right. In order to do this you must add thickness to one side, and remove the same amount from the other side. That pattern is looking pretty good. Not sure what that pin is from. Not a bearing roller.
 
Wes Harden said:
sorry for the confusion. In order to move the back lash you must shift the carrier left or right. In order to do this you must add thickness to one side, and remove the same amount from the other side. That pattern is looking pretty good. Not sure what that pin is from. Not a bearing roller.
Click to expand...
Would you stop there if you were me? I’m at .006” backlash. I need to be in between .005-.008”.

Sorry for all the manic posts, just want to be done with this and I’m just nervous cause I’ve never done before.
 
yup your back lash is good to go. I would like to see another pattern picture, if you can have someone hold the carrier with a wrench on a ring gear bolt while you turn the pinion at the marking compound, this will help get a cleaner pattern in the compound.
 
Wes Harden said:
yup your back lash is good to go. I would like to see another pattern picture, if you can have someone hold the carrier with a wrench on a ring gear bolt while you turn the pinion at the marking compound, this will help get a cleaner pattern in the compound.
Click to expand...

IMG_0039.png
 
Wes Harden said:
I don't understand why your pattern looks like a thin line, It should be closer to this.
View attachment 461072
Click to expand...
Someone on Facebook mentioned that my gears aren’t original and are 5cut gears and who ever installed didn’t do it right and that the pinion needs to be deeeper. Perhaps that’s true. I don’t know.
 
Well I can show you pinion depth change on the pattern
this is the same diff as above but .004" shallower (away from carrier)
.023shim1.jpg
and .004" deeper
.019 shim1a.jpg
You can see the heel toe placement moves more than root top placement. Is just that your are not getting a "patch" in your pattern. Be careful with info on FB.
Here are my thought s this morning. Possibly to much marking compound, or poor quality compound. Having some healthy resistance to turning really helps the pattern show
 
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