LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

[shady]

Then I moved to the brake line.
I installed the line lock.

Yes, I know it is in wrong .
I'm experimenting with this. And in theory it'll work.
Nothing in actual town or high speed will be the testing ground.

It's been hashed over in here before, hence why it's a test.
I want to push/hold the button, and block fluid from getting to the back brakes.
So that I can start a burnout, and creep forward at my own controlled pace. Without burning up my rear brakes. And being the biggest brakes available in this platform, they eat a LOT of power to overcome.

@folkenheath can attest to it. This thing was running pretty good, and wouldn't overpower the rear brakes.
You power brake it up, it's trying hard to spin, but the tires won't really turn.
Let off quick with your foot still in it, and it'll squeak em.

In this configuration, the rear brakes get fully blocked when the solenoid is on.... From the master cylinder.

Still gotta wire it in is all.

 

[shady]

Next issue was the fuel rail mounts.
The fuel rail is identical to my old one.... Except the mount tabs are inside instead of outside the rail.
So I made adapters.
They're out of 1/8" so won't flex, and should work great.

 

[shady]

Forgot a pic

 

[shady]

Then I decided to get the Intake air temp sensor in.

It requires cutting off the front vac port and drilling out to about 9/16".
Then you just black rtv it in.

 

[shady]

Lastly I fixed the throttle cable bracket. I have full adjustability now.

 

[shady]

And, when I went to pick my intake up out of the driver's seat.....
Instead of holding it flat like I did when it went in there, I tipped it TB up to pull it out and dumped gas all over the driver's seat.... Which is ripped, so it soaked into the foam.
About time to look at seats lol.

 

[fourwheelerjeff]

gassy ass

 

[Chevy305]

Certain applications had the fuel rail tabs inside, others had it outside. I like your adapter solution instead of buying a new rail.

 

[shady]

I'm going to start changing my tune for the upgrades tonight.
I believe all I have to change is,

My cam info.
Switch my map sensor. (Lost the new one, gotta find and install it yet lol)
Lower my transmission line pressure setting, to adjust from there (Per transmission builder)
Raise my shift points.
Raise the rev limiter.
Lower total timing a bit to start...? (Because of the compression change from 9.7 to 10.7ish.)

 

[folkenheath]

Don't lower your trans pressure unless your builder raised the spring pressure mechanically, which I hope he didn't, stock pressure can hold 1000 HP easy on a 4L80, no reason to beat on the parts with higher pressure than that. And the computer just reduces pressure, it can't raise it above the spring pressure.

You definitely need to raise the shift point curve above about 50% throttle, and the rev limiter.

You can drop the WOT timing down to 28 and try that, I don't think you need lower than that. Your converter is going to be easy on it at lower RPMs, it won't have high load at low RPM with that converter.

 

[shady]

I was thinking 28 myself.

Not sure what he did, but he said the pressure would be higher at the same duty cycle, so he wanted me to lower it to 20%-25% at the WOT, and adjust from there.
He was actually going to copy a stock BB trucks duty cycle curve and have me set it at that. But I haven't been back to get it yet.
He said adjust for smooth but crisp, and NOT tire chirping.

Whatever he did is holding up in a friend of his 1000hp drag car so

I know him pretty well, so after I get it going I might just take him for a ride with the laptop and have him help me set it.

 

[folkenheath]

I was thinking 28 myself.

Not sure what he did, but he said the pressure would be higher at the same duty cycle, so he wanted me to lower it to 20%-25% at the WOT,

I would not do that. You can lower the pressure at low load, less than 50% throttle or so, but why would he crank the pressure up and then tell you to turn it down with the computer at WOT, that's a less reliable way to do it. But everyone has their own idea of what works.

If he took the check ball out of the 2-3 shift its probably going to murder the drivetrain. I don't even have it shift that hard on my Regal. I drove my regal around for nearly 10 years at full pressure all the time, no computer.

I would leave the pressure the way it was, and adjust it from there.

Ask him if it will be over 175 psi at WOT? Or is WOT pressure the same and it just has more pressure quicker from a stiffer spring but with the same WOT pressure?

 

[shady]

He was all about making sure it didn't shift hard. So not sure about the ball.
The tire chirping shifts and shifts that hard he was saying will break parts both inside and outside the transmission.
That was why he wanted me to lower it. And work up, so that it didn't start high and break chit.

 

[shady]

He didn't mean leave it like that. Just start my tuning from that point

 

[shady]

I would not do that. You can lower the pressure at low load, less than 50% throttle or so, but why would he crank the pressure up and then tell you to turn it down with the computer at WOT, that's a less reliable way to do it. But everyone has their own idea of what works.

If he took the check ball out of the 2-3 shift its probably going to murder the drivetrain. I don't even have it shift that hard on my Regal. I drove my regal around for nearly 10 years at full pressure all the time, no computer.

I would leave the pressure the way it was, and adjust it from there.

Ask him if it will be over 175 psi at WOT? Or is WOT pressure the same and it just has more pressure quicker from a stiffer spring but with the same WOT pressure?

I'll have to wait till Monday or Tuesday to talk to him.
I'll ask him about the WOT pressures.

 

[shady]

Now all the tiny BS.


Think I'm going to run 5w-30 royal purple in it this time.
It's gotta be better for a borderline race truck than mobil 1 . And definitely better than the Castrol dino juice its had since built.
Originally planned to run 5w-40 rotella. But seen it's not rated SN for gas engines.

Converter is sitting at almost exactly 1/8" from the flex plate. ... Perfect
Yes I did pour some fluid in it and lube the O ring. Lol.
Would have had way more done today, but spent the morning with the wife, so I guess it's justified lol.

Only get a half a day tomorrow too. But Monday is MINE

 

[centexk5]

Mobil 1 is quality stuff. I wouldn’t hesitate to run it in anything high performance.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Mobil 1 is quality stuff. I wouldn’t hesitate to run it in anything high performance.

It’s all I run anymore but have thought about putting vr1 in the 82

 

[shady]

I thought about using Mobil 1 just because that's what I use in my DD and the wife's Denali.
Probably be easier to store 1 type that two....


And...... My day is shot and I'm gonna take a day or 2.

Decided to get the headers on because I need space to do it.
Holes were tight so I ran a tap through them all.

Rear one on the passenger side tapped fine, but came out with aluminum on the last few threads.

Stripped immediately when I tightened the header bolt.
So, one of the fancy new thread ideas you guys all gave me in the other thread will be put to use.

But I have to take the engine back out to do it

 

[Chevy305]

Project Farm did several videos with Mobil 1. It's a decent oil but other brands aren't too bad either. Just keep using Mobil 1, no reason not to. I prefer Valvoline but that's just me.