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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
In other news,
I ordered the lowered front leaf spring hanger to go with the shackles I already have. So I should be getting the rear down where I want it now.

I'm kind of liking the front height now. But I'll have to do some hidden metal work to keep the tires out of the fender, and still going to change the springs to get a stiffer rate.
The front has the coils, and shocks with helper springs and it's still super soft up there. Driving it almost feels like low pressured air bags and bad shocks. Rear feels fine.

So bought the stock front diesel springs again and I'll cut them (cut off wheel) to get the desired ride and height.
 
video from the one datalog yesterday. the dead spot immediately after the throttle hits 100 is what i feel/hear.
this way you can hear what its doing also

View attachment 487283

From this and the datalog I believe you are reaching the converter stall and the engine is bogging down before finally getting into the powerband. Which is surprising because usually a heavier vehicle will give you a higher stall effect, and you even have 4.56 gears. Having a looser converter could fix that, however, I still can't get over the fact that you can't over power the brakes. That just seems wrong. Have you tried spinning your wheels in the air by hand on the lift when in neutral with the engine off? Is anything binding? Are your brakes functioning correctly?

How did your plugs look?

You could try different timing at that RPM range. At the dyno all they are going basically do is change the fuel or the timing. That's the basics of what you can change other than transmission stuff.

So in that RPM range on your chart, try a little less and if that doesn't work a little more timing in the 2500 - 3500 range and see if it likes it. You can definitely hear the engine come alive around 4K RPM. You only need to worry about the top of the chart where it's at WOT above 90 kPa. You can also try 2 more degrees of timing at WOT for the rest of the RPM range above that and see what happens. Down low you can change it 2 or 4 degrees either way and see what it likes. Go down first, if it doesn't like it, then go up. Be careful, listen for pinging, because in that area where the RPM is around 2700 and its hit the converter that's where its most likely to ping, high load, low RPM.

You can literally try what the dyno people will do, for free...

Also, it appears to go pig rich when you first punch it, so try leaning up your acceleration enrichment and see if it likes it. Change one thing at a time, not two, or it can lead you down the wrong path.
 
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Another thing to confirm is have someone watch the tailpipe when you punch it, if you get a puff of black smoke it's a sure sign it's too much fuel.

Another thing is try changing your WOT target AFR to 13:1 and then maybe 13.2 if its at 12.8.

Remember, small steps, one thing at a time.
 
Wheels spin fine by hand.

If I try power braking and slowly let up it will eventually turn them right about the point it's trying to roll the front tires. I did get one fug of a burnout out of it a few minutes ago... But I got the hell out of there so pics will wait lol.
It's trying to shove the fronts and spin the rears at 2300rpm.
I was trying to spool it up to 2500 or so to launch it and it started spinning at 2200-2300.
So I launched.... Then stopped and tried a burnout.

Burnout worked well.... Kinda.
 
Side note.... It wasn't a hot day (75*), but I took this on a 40mi one way trip today. And after driving all that way, and sitting in traffic a bit the trans temp got up to about 165. Not sure how high it would have went if I'd have sat longer in traffic.
:dunno:. I hope it'll be ok this way.

On the highway it was 130-140
 
Side note.... It wasn't a hot day (75*), but I took this on a 40mi one way trip today. And after driving all that way, and sitting in traffic a bit the trans temp got up to about 165. Not sure how high it would have went if I'd have sat longer in traffic.
:dunno:. I hope it'll be ok this way.

On the highway it was 130-140
I see 200 all the time with anything I drive, even being stock. You are good to go, you don’t need to worry until it hits about 220.
 
As the MAP drops from 55 to 100, the spark table says advance should go from 40 to 29. On your plot we see it go from about 30 to 15. What is modifying the timing? Is it recording knock?
 
Without values it's hard to tell if that's expected but your timing does nose dive there on initial tip in.
 
As the MAP drops from 55 to 100, the spark table says advance should go from 40 to 29. On your plot we see it go from about 30 to 15. What is modifying the timing? Is it recording knock?
Looking at this again, the 40 to 29 degrees was assuming 3kRPM, but during that dip, you're at 1kRPM, so it's expected to go from 25 to 16.

1727438578930.png
But there are places where the timing is not on the table. Look at that flat-top between 2 and 3 seconds. There are no 30+ cells anywhere below 1600RPM. It's hitting some kind of max there. The extra timing must be due to some idle speed control.
 
I still think the way to approach this is to start small and do progressively larger throttle openings to find the trends.
 
I still think the way to approach this is to start small and do progressively larger throttle openings to find the trends.
This was the last log, yesterday, right before I got it to burnout.
The 3 initial green bumps on the TPS are me trying to stall it up, and launch that way.
I let off when it broke tires, thought "hey! It did it!" So I let em kind of spin a second to retry on the second bump, third bump they broke a little again, so I let up some.
The flat spot in RPM and TPS right before the launch is as far as I can go before it breaks traction when I ease into it.

Easing into it, does allow me to break traction.:waytogo:. So there is that.
But it still seems off on the launch.
That flat spot in the rpm when the converter kicks in or whatever is going on, actually kills my 0-60 time, which would probably kill some 1/4 time too if I measured it.
I gained almost a full second on my 0-60. I was hoping for the other way around.

One thing I may try after some time here is switching to dex V trans fluid.
Every other forum I went through researching it said that people noticed a higher stall speed when it was put in a vehicle that used dex III originally.
:thinking::dunno:
Shouldn't hurt anything and it's worth a shot I guess.

I wanted to get some miles on the trans and then change the filter anyway. Due to near immediate abuse on a new trans... (Didn't think of it maybe needing some mild driving at first :doah:)

IMG_20240927_110441923.jpg
 
Easing into it, does allow me to break traction.:waytogo:. So there is that.
But it still seems off on the launch.

That points toward acceleration enrichment being off. We should tweak that and see what it wants.

That flat spot in the rpm when the converter kicks in or whatever is going on, actually kills my 0-60 time, which would probably kill some 1/4 time too if I measured it.
I gained almost a full second on my 0-60. I was hoping for the other way around.

If we can't tune it out, that would mean the converter is still too tight for that combination. We need to do some tuning. Do you want to send me the tune you are currently using your best data log and I can tweak the timing and you can try that. And then after that we can try tweaking the fueling if you want. It would be much easier if I was in person but we should be able to tell if it's the tune or not.

One thing I may try after some time here is switching to dex V trans fluid.

I would use Dex VI, I believe all Dex VI is full synthetic.


I still don't like the way your MAP drops at WOT. Are you sure your air filter is not plugged or something? Maybe on a clear morning with dew on the pavement you should make one test with no air cleaner or something.
 

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