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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Overview Gallery Discussion
Looks like all the parts I need, including plate gaskets and such. Using the blue plate kit and Kolene steels, comes up to $880.

I'll go that route and see I guess :dunno:

It'll have wait till I'm back to work full time.
I have a lot of catching up to do before I can justify money on this.

One thing I didn't find but may need is that other check ball.
 
shady said:
Looks like all the parts I need, including plate gaskets and such. Using the blue plate kit and Kolene steels, comes up to $880.

I'll go that route and see I guess :dunno:

It'll have wait till I'm back to work full time.
I have a lot of catching up to do before I can justify money on this.

One thing I didn't find but may need is that other check ball.
Click to expand...
Check for balls!
 
I've looked all over and can't find anything that seems like it would matter.
 
That check ball is fine being gone.

In fact, you may remove more check balls depending on what plate you use. That's why I suggest a transgo or a jakes shift kit or something.
 
I seen a spring for 185psi and was going to ask if I should do that.

I'm kind of confused about the shift kits.
If I can control chit with the Holley, what does the shift kit do really?
I do know I can see a difference in a few things between the 2 transmissions.
Like when I down shift, this one waits until it's good and ready to do so, where the other just did it.
And of course the 1-2 is MUCH different lol.

I can tell there's some slip in this one though.
If I get on it sort of moderately off the line it's shift fast and hard, but if I'm IN it, and at 6000+. The shift doesn't drag out, but it's not as hard and firm lol.
 
The shift kit changes the pressure curve some, and potentially the max pressure,(not recommended at your power level) and the shift orifices and accumulator springs, etc. Essentially, there is a mechanical range that it has, and the shift kit changes that.

The computer can only soften the pressure, it can't make the shift firmer than the hydraulic circuit allows.

The shift kit can, and the computer can still turn it down, but it allows much firmer shifts. It also prevents high RPM centrifugal clutch applications, and other issues.

Download the Transgo intructions, and read them, you'll learn from it even if you decide not to buy it, but they make the most complete shift kits.
 
Let me transmission fluid settle for a few days, and dumped it out today.
I'd say there was some clutch material in it. Lol

IMG_20250827_134135148_HDR.jpg
 
shady said:
Let me transmission fluid settle for a few days, and dumped it out today.
I'd say there was some clutch material in it. Lol

View attachment 511279
Click to expand...
My previous blazer had a th350 in it that after a dozen drain and fills and filters still looked like that. Ran fine when I pulled it. @fourwheelerjeff owns it now.
 
folkenheath said:
My distributor has these in stock..., which is the one I recommend..

transgo.com

4L80E Performance Reprogramming Kit

TransGo 4L80E performance kit includes components calibrated to improve the overall durability and shift feel of the transmission.
transgo.com transgo.com
Click to expand...
Would you recommend this kit on a stock truck?
98 7.4
Also what about my 92 6.5td
 
I think I might do that trans go kit in the one that's in the truck now.
To at least help it live until I get the other one back in.
Watched a couple install vids of it. Looks simple enough.
 
shady said:
I think I might do that trans go kit in the one that's in the truck now.
To at least help it live until I get the other one back in.
Watched a couple install vids of it. Looks simple enough.
Click to expand...
That's what I want to do on my suburban now, it's relatively low miles 150k and is still good
 
Ordered the transgo HD-2 kit for this. For the current transmission.

It doesn't feel like it's 'slipping' , but shifts under full throttle are softer than shifts under low throttle, so it needs something addressed lol.



Given all the feed back of not trusting this damaged one, I'll probably put it back together as a core and
Buy a pre built REAL transmission when/if I swap this one back out.
 
I finally removed the dummy shifter that I kept grabbing on the column lol.

Eventually I want to swap in a good manual truck column.

IMG_20250903_110506897_HDR.jpg
 
And lastly....

The GMPP engine said specifically in the directions to prime it with, and run, 15w-50 Mobile 1.
And you can tell the rings are taking their sweet time seating. Because it still burns oil.

It's not like I've put 3000-5000 miles on it yet either. But it just surprises me how long it's doing it.
 
That's interesting. I did the Driven 10w-30 for less than a hundred miles on my 383 and then switched to Mobil 15w-50. No burning oil or smoke or anything. I've got almost 200 miles on it at this point.
 
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