I wouldn't leave it at .205, I'd shim it to under .188, closer to .125, maybe one .060 - .080 washer, but measure until you find 3 within a .001 of each other.
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CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
.205" is not in the middle of that, or did you have a typo and it was supposed to be .105"?
What you are doing is setting the engagement of the torque converter in the pump. The further out it is, the less engagement you have, but if its too close it can bind up. So I shoot for .125", but I've been told as small as .060 is OK.
What you are doing is setting the engagement of the torque converter in the pump. The further out it is, the less engagement you have, but if its too close it can bind up. So I shoot for .125", but I've been told as small as .060 is OK.
Teach the niece how to do cooler lines.Transmission is in. View attachment 521090
Still have to bolt the torque converter and cross member down. But it's in
Converter has .205" space from what I can measure using stacks of various thickness washers lol
So I'm good there and don't even need washers this time. I originally thought I'd need more.View attachment 521095
Definitely changing the pan when I do a filter change about 400-500 miles in.
Not a fan of the recessed drain plug.View attachment 521094
Ill try and get those things done and the cooler lines hooked up today. If I even get a chance lol.
My one day off in forever and for the next few weeks and it happens to be my nieces Birthday....
What are ya gonna do ..?lol.
We've all gotten to the point we need to step away and come back later.
I was working back and forth, little here, little there.
I'd gotten to where I was about to bolt the converter in, and I still had it on the jack up jig I made.
So I decided to move on to getting the cross member in quick.
Got it in and the mount on, then couldn't find my cross member bolts, so just said fug it and washed up. Found the cross member bolts right after washing, and REALLY thought about continuing because of that Bday party.
Then just bailed .
Glad I did lol
I'd gotten to where I was about to bolt the converter in, and I still had it on the jack up jig I made.
So I decided to move on to getting the cross member in quick.
Got it in and the mount on, then couldn't find my cross member bolts, so just said fug it and washed up. Found the cross member bolts right after washing, and REALLY thought about continuing because of that Bday party.
Then just bailed .
Glad I did lol
I really don't like the exposed drain plug.
This is dual purpose, it protects the head of the bolt from scraping and keeps the debris in the bottom which is good for diagnostics later.
This is dual purpose, it protects the head of the bolt from scraping and keeps the debris in the bottom which is good for diagnostics later.
I'd rather the debris flow out when I drain it.
I have been draining into a clean pan and then pouring that out through a paint filter.
99% of the time you're pulling the pan anyway if your changing fluid, bit I've dropped fluid to diagnose then just refilled it a few times now.
Liked being able to do that.
No point in changing the filter if the fluid looks good and it only has like 5k on it.
I have been draining into a clean pan and then pouring that out through a paint filter.
99% of the time you're pulling the pan anyway if your changing fluid, bit I've dropped fluid to diagnose then just refilled it a few times now.
Liked being able to do that.
No point in changing the filter if the fluid looks good and it only has like 5k on it.
Get a finned aluminum pan. The fins help protect the drain plug if you think you're going to be bashing it on anything, and if you are, make a skid plate!
Cross member done,
Cooler Lines done,
Converter torqued, (used the .060" shim washers)
Shifter and wires hooked back up,
Starter back in,
Exhaust hooked back up.
Found out this trans came with one of the fancy $40 reusable gaskets I bought
. Guess I should have waited lol.
I need the drive shaft back to fill it. And need to get it back on the floor to change the oil filter. Then I can fill both fluids and it's be drivable.
At that point it goes to the other side of the shop, gets put up on jack stands, and the bodywork gets finished.
Cooler Lines done,
Converter torqued, (used the .060" shim washers)
Shifter and wires hooked back up,
Starter back in,
Exhaust hooked back up.
Found out this trans came with one of the fancy $40 reusable gaskets I bought
. Guess I should have waited lol.I need the drive shaft back to fill it. And need to get it back on the floor to change the oil filter. Then I can fill both fluids and it's be drivable.
At that point it goes to the other side of the shop, gets put up on jack stands, and the bodywork gets finished.
I tried my hand at making repairs from scratch.
Started with the inner corner piece.
Using 6x12 20ga. Pieces.
This is the piece I was making
Didn't come out too bad for a noob.
Not welding it in until I have weld through primer for everything. I have it coming, but not for like a week and a half. Can't find it locally
Started with the inner corner piece.
Using 6x12 20ga. Pieces.
This is the piece I was making
Didn't come out too bad for a noob.
Not welding it in until I have weld through primer for everything. I have it coming, but not for like a week and a half. Can't find it locally
It thereafter Seymour supplier locally. Their stainless steel paint is weldable.
Next I moved to the corner piece.
I cut a strip I thought was the right size . And in order to compound bend it, I decided to stretch one side, using my vice as an anvil, and a punch that's been flattened on the tip somewhat.
I had already cut a piece to get my contour, so I welded that on.
20ga sucks lol. Wish I'd have gotten 18ga.
I welded a flange on the other side for the inner lip connection.
So far happy as a clam with my shoddy work lol.
I then put it all together for test fit
And it's wrong lol.
I'll have to split in longways and add a wedge to bring the bottom out to the lip
I cut a strip I thought was the right size . And in order to compound bend it, I decided to stretch one side, using my vice as an anvil, and a punch that's been flattened on the tip somewhat.
I had already cut a piece to get my contour, so I welded that on.
20ga sucks lol. Wish I'd have gotten 18ga.
I welded a flange on the other side for the inner lip connection.
So far happy as a clam with my shoddy work lol.
I then put it all together for test fit
And it's wrong lol.
I'll have to split in longways and add a wedge to bring the bottom out to the lip
