Lumber Rack pic post - Let's see 'em!

[pvfjr]

I'm looking for some inspiration before I get started. I'd like to see some nice racks so I can figure out what I want real quick. Especially if you have a pic of one on a crew cab, preferably homemade stuff too. Any do's and don'ts before I make any mistakes?

I'm having some issues with my pic server, I'll throw up a pic of the CC in question later.

Edit: Here's the truck.

 

[dremu]

I'm looking for some inspiration before I get started. I'd like to see some nice racks so I can figure out what I want real quick. Especially if you have a pic of one on a crew cab, preferably homemade stuff too. Any do's and don'ts before I make any mistakes?

I'm having some issues with my pic server, I'll throw up a pic of the CC in question later.

Not home-made, mostly cuz for $150 (Craigslist!) I couldn't buy the steel do it myself.

I would, however, have preferred one with a longer section over the cab -- this one is for a regular cab longbed, I do believe.

Stuff to make sure of:

* that the bar in the back is removable, so you can fit tall stuff like fridges in.

* that said bar is strong enough to chain a 14bff to with a comealong. (Mine is, thankfully!)

Stuff to consider:

* might want a bar in the middle for medium-length pipe/lumber/whatever.

* Headache rack

* Expanded mesh or something above the cab for boxes or odd-sized stuff.

* GOOD tiedowns... mine has cleats, and they can REALLY hurt when you fall on them, plus they're not as useful as, say, the rounded ones. Even just a biggish chainlink welded on each vertical would be good... but something you can tie a rope to AND hook a ratcheting strap onto quickly and easily would be best.

* I'm also contemplating putting a spare up there; since it's now a dually, I'm not expecting to need the spare much, and since it's now got three toolboxes, I'm short on bedspace as it is... though I might stuff the spare under the front box, I donno.

Anyway, on to the pix... here's mine when I first got it...

... and painted to match (it's very important to coordinate your accessories!)

including the toolbox(es)

And this is what happens when you DON'T have space above the cab for smaller items:

-- A

 

[pvfjr]

Thanks for the reply dremu, that's the kinda stuff I'm looking for. I forgot your stealth dually had a rack. Have I ever told you I love that truck? Good call making the rear crossbar removeable, I can see that as a must. I was thinking about an expanded metal basket type area above the cab too, and was also wanting to put the spare up there. It's amazing how much firewood a 33" spare will displace. Time to get that thing out of the bed for sure. I have a bunch of 1.5" square tube that's .120 wall I believe. That should be plenty stout. I've got some angle iron too, I was thinking of running it along the bedrails, is that what I see on your setup?

 

[dremu]

Thanks for the reply, that's the kinda stuff I'm looking for. Good call making the rear crossbar removeable, I can see that as a must. I was thinking about an expanded metal basket type area above the cab too, and was also wanting to put the spare up there. It's amazing how much firewood a 33" spare will displace. Time to get that thing out of the bed for sure. I have a bunch of 1.5" square tube that's .120 wall I believe. That should be plenty stout. I've got some angle iron too, I was thinking of running it along the bedrails, is that what I see on your setup?

Yes... angle iron the length of the bedrail, bolted through.

Square tube ain't as pretty as round, but it'll do the trick.

-- A

 

[pvfjr]

Well I figure it'll match the square headlights. And it's easier for the novice to notch, I guess.

 

[pvfjr]

Ok, I've done a little thinking and designing, one thing I'm kinda coming up short on. What's the best way to make that rear crossbar removeable? I was thinking it would be nice if it was fast and easy to pull out, so I was thinking pins instead of bolts. But at the same time, I don't want there to be any play in the fit of it, cause I imagine that's where a lot of the strength would be coming from when the rack is loaded. Anyone got any ideas? Close up pics of existing setups?

 

[dremu]

Ok, I've done a little thinking and designing, one thing I'm kinda coming up short on. What's the best way to make that rear crossbar removeable? I was thinking it would be nice if it was fast and easy to pull out, so I was thinking pins instead of bolts. But at the same time, I don't want there to be any play in the fit of it, cause I imagine that's where a lot of the strength would be coming from when the rack is loaded. Anyone got any ideas? Close up pics of existing setups?

Yep, pins. The tube ones I've seen look ... well, like mine, duh:

The crossmember is welded to two short pieces of tube, whose ID is slightly larger than the OD of the tubes coming out of the rack. Coupla holes and a ~1/4" hitch pin each side, keeps it from coming out without having to be structural, and voila.

The one thing I keep meaning to do is cap off the back ends of the tubelettes, so I know which end goes where and to look nicer ... but in three years I seem not to have gotten around to it

-- A

 

[dremu]

I've also seen some with an identical setup on the center for another crossmember, save that the tubelettes are vertical rather than horizontal. Looks stupid, but keeps the crossmembers at the same height as the cab-over.

-- A

 

[sled_dog]

Any trouble with wind noise on that Dremu?

Thats my biggest point, make the front end so you can change the length fairly easily after you make it. My Dad had a few racks that really whistled through the air. Was really irritating.

Removable rear crossmember is an EXCELLENT point. Dad has a Reading utility box that has the removable rear crossmember, its invaluable. Never get a fridge or oven in there and we transport those often enough to count.

 

[pvfjr]

Hey thanks for the pics. I guess I'll save that part for last, gotta rummage up some pins somewhere, and find some different sized tube pieces to make it work.

 

[dremu]

Any trouble with wind noise on that Dremu?

Thats my biggest point, make the front end so you can change the length fairly easily after you make it. My Dad had a few racks that really whistled through the air. Was really irritating.

Removable rear crossmember is an EXCELLENT point. Dad has a Reading utility box that has the removable rear crossmember, its invaluable. Never get a fridge or oven in there and we transport those often enough to count.

A 26' long god-knows-how-man-thousand-pound truck and you ask about wind noise?

Seriously, I didn't drive it enough 'fore I put the rack on to remember ... but no, I don't notice any more whistling or other artifacts than I get from the other trucks. Ride ain't quiet, but it's a three-decade old pickup, ya know?

As for the removable xmember, even if you don't move fridges, it's damn handy to remove 'cuz it's a lot lower than it looks when you're standing in the bed. Ow.

-- A

 

[dremu]

And just for the reference of the rest of the world, and 'cuz I *am* the pic whore, here's the truck in its more-or-less current form as a dually. I've added bedrail boxes as well, but she's currently not very photogenic while I'm waiting for her new motor

http://www.slosh.com/ck5/backup-lights-redux-5.JPG

-- A

 

[83_Shortbed]

dremu
on your dully setup how did you get the tires to all fit under the bed aside from using the flares. I remember seeing another truck (~72 Chevy) with a similar setup and as I remember it kinda looked like the bed had a bit u/v shape to it.

 

[mechted]

Another thing to think about are "fork friendly sides" (like Dremu's)
If you will be having a lot of material loaded up there, a kid on the forklift is far less likely to damage your truck, or the material during loading.

Hasnt really been an issue for my brothers C20, but both times I had a load of lumber up there it required 2 forklifts to place it there without damage

These are the unfriendly sides: (really i just like this picture: 1/2 way throught the C10-C20 conversion)

 

[dremu]

dremu
on your dully setup how did you get the tires to all fit under the bed aside from using the flares. I remember seeing another truck (~72 Chevy) with a similar setup and as I remember it kinda looked like the bed had a bit u/v shape to it.

Tubbed the wheelwells. If I'd gone with 215/85's (these are 235's) I might been able to just massage the wheelwells in a BFH, but after buying seven new tires I wanted to make DAMN sure they didn't get scratched up!

Anyway, lost the ability to carry 4x8 sheets between the wheelwells, but I figure I can just sit them ON the wells, or on the rack, or whatever .... I hate sheetrock, and only occasionally get plywood ... and the one time I've had to carry sheetrock this truck was down anyway and had to use the '09

And Mechted, is THAT why the sides are lower... looks funny, but makes perfect sense now that you mention the forklift thing. Might be why the center x-member option is funny looking too.

-- A

 

[mechted]

And Mechted, is THAT why the sides are lower... looks funny, but makes perfect sense now that you mention the forklift thing. Might be why the center x-member option is funny looking too.

yep, i hate the way fork friendly sides look, so its the whole form-function thing

 

[83_Shortbed]

thanks I've been thinking of eventually getting another shortbed and doing a dully setup so thats why I was asking so I could see how options were done for something aside from the outer 2 wheels sticking out like the standard setup

 

[dremu]

thanks I've been thinking of eventually getting another shortbed and doing a dully setup so thats why I was asking so I could see how options were done for something aside from the outer 2 wheels sticking out like the standard setup

Yeah, while I'm sure the increased track is great for towing, it makes turning and parking exciting, and just plain looks UGLY, IMHO. That and the factory fiberglass fenders seem to all be broken... I'd be inclined to try to weld up some steel stepside fenders or something.

Anyway, you could use a C&C axle, which is a regular SRW 14bff with the dually hubs to shift the WMS in 2" each side. To do the dually drums you'd hafta also move the brake mount flanges in 2" as well unless it was actually a C&C axle which has the flanges there to begin with

I used the SRW 14BFF and the SRW hubs, so my WMS is stock (and did a custom disc conversion.) I did end up putting on a set of fender flares (I had them laying around) as the tiers stuck out a bit more than I wanted, but c'est la vie.

-- A

 

[83_Shortbed]

I kinda know what you mean by it being exciting since I used to work at a lube shop and had to pull a few dullies in once in a great while and not being used to thinking of the extended track in back and needing to back up and move stuff out of the way that wasn't typically an issue

 

[3 on the tree]

My rack is square tube. As you can see, the rear crossbar just slides down into a square socket. It has 4 ratcheting straps, with hooks for tie downs. One crossbar at 7'11", one at 10', and the front is at 14'. I have hauled close to 1500 lbs of lumber and roofing on it, with no ill effects.