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m1008 6.2 into a 1985 K5 blazer gasser

J

Jimmard

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Ok, I basically have access to whatever parts I need out of a m1008 cucv truck. I want to put the diesel in my blazer. I am going to get the master cylinder, the radiator, the engine/glow plugs and battery trays. I have a couple questions.

1. the m1008 runs on a 24 volt system. What will I need out of the truck to make it work on the blazer? I would like to keep the 24 volt system so I can have the new 24 volt starter out of it as well. Is the conversion system bolted to the firewall all I would need?

2. Glow plugs. I read that people are running manual glow plug switches. Can I rig everything up myself or will I need anything out of the truck? The owner of the truck says there is a huge mess of wires under the dash that he would rather not deal with, so if I can make my own glow plug controller, that would be great.

3. Exhaust. I am getting this motor out of a pickup, which I asssssume should work in my blazer, but the owner said the manifolds in the truck are different from the manifolds he has in his m1009 blazer he has parked right next to this truck. Just wanted to make sure they will work (I assume they will).

Thanks for the help, this is my first post here and I know, for the most part, what I'm doing here, but it sure would be nice to clear these things up and know before hand what I need to do rather than find out in the middle of the swap. Thanks!!!! :)

Jim
 
My personal opinion is that you'd be better off in the long run getting a 12-volt starter, fuel shutoff solenoid (located on the injection pump), and glowplugs. You'll likely want better glowplugs than stock anyway (I recommend the Kennedy Diesel plugs www.kennedydiesel.com) so they don't mushroom on you and get stuck.

As far as donor items related to the glow system, get the solenoid on the fender and the glowplug harness that goes from the solenoid to the plugs. That's all you'll need from the CUCV if you're going manual. I'd also grab the second battery tray and install it on your Blazer.

I'm not sure on the manifolds, but they should work just fine.
 
What he said.

If you go 12v Kennedy's has the gp's you want, if you stick with 24v go with the Wellman 070's. You can get those on Ebay.

The only reason the 24v system is in my CUCV still is nothing specifically 24v in it has failed yet. When something does, I'm going 12v in a hurry. The CUCV 24v setup is kinda half ass and frankly a pain to deal with. Very little of it is common or easily accessible from parts stores. You'd be FAR better off finding the correct setup for a civy 12v engine and using the parts off of it.
 
I would think that there would be advantages to having a 24 volt starter, mainly being easier to start the motor because it has more power. If there is no advantage to keeping the 24 volt system, I dont see why I wouldnt just swap to 12 volt now rather than later, unless there are advantages to the 24 volt system.
 
The 24v system is there for starting commonality with other military equipment. That's it.

Really makes no sense for us in the civilian world. With a properly running ignition system our diesels will start just fine at 12v.
 
Jimmard said:
I would think that there would be advantages to having a 24 volt starter, mainly being easier to start the motor because it has more power. If there is no advantage to keeping the 24 volt system, I dont see why I wouldnt just swap to 12 volt now rather than later, unless there are advantages to the 24 volt system.
Click to expand...

With the 2 batteries, wether you go 24v (series) or 12v (parallel) you will get the same juice to spin your starter. As was said go 12v now since you are starting from scratch.
 
imiceman44 said:
With the 2 batteries, wether you go 24v (series) or 12v (parallel) you will get the same juice to spin your starter. As was said go 12v now since you are starting from scratch.
Click to expand...

Ok awesome, thanks everyone for the help! Got exactly what I needed to know :D I'll post progress pictures once I start on the project.
 
Have you thought about the Smog issues in California for a conversion from Gas to Diesel.

I have dealt with alot of issues in the past with smog.. so living in this state.. its the first thing I think of.

-Doc
 
No real issues to speak of...throw that sucker in there, get it inspected at the referee station, and you'll be smog exempt from there on out. :waytogo:
 
longbedder said:
My personal opinion is that you'd be better off in the long run getting a 12-volt starter, fuel shutoff solenoid (located on the injection pump), and glowplugs. You'll likely want better glowplugs than stock anyway (I recommend the Kennedy Diesel plugs www.kennedydiesel.com) so they don't mushroom on you and get stuck.

As far as donor items related to the glow system, get the solenoid on the fender and the glowplug harness that goes from the solenoid to the plugs. That's all you'll need from the CUCV if you're going manual. I'd also grab the second battery tray and install it on your Blazer.

I'm not sure on the manifolds, but they should work just fine.
Click to expand...

If I decide to convert to 12volt now, all I would need is the starter, fuel solenoid, and glow plugs? No controllers or anything else would be necessary? Where can I get these parts? Also, how would I deal with the 2 alternators?
 
I've never personally converted a CUCV to 12V, but I do know that the following electrical items are required to start/run a 6.2L:

1) Starter
2) Fuel shutoff solenoid
3) Glowplugs
4) Glow controller
5) Glow solenoid
6) Glow harness
7) Alternator
8) Batteries (wired in parallel, not series like the CUCV)

I left out the controller in my earlier post because you indicated an interest in a manual setup. I went full manual control on mine and love it - I've got a momentary-on toggle switch on my dash wired directly to the glow solenoid. An important note is that I've got the Kennedy plugs which won't swell and get stuck - I can't overdo the glow accidentally. The stock controller cycles the stock plugs on and off to avoid swelling them up.

I would delete one alternator and just run one good one (like a CS130).
 
1) The ONLY 24V part on a CUCV 6.2L is the starter. It is not worth trying to turn a 12V truck into 24V. You would need the entire wiring harness from the donor to go that route. Instead, if you keep it 12V all of the SBC wiring is very close if not the same. The only change you have to make is extending the IGN wire from the HEI to the front of the motor and hooking it up to the IP solenoid.

2) The glow plugs are 12V on the CUCV with a large resistor to convert 24V down to 12V. Leave off the resistor and use the solenoid on the donor vehicle. Just hook up a manual button on the dash to the ground leg of the solenoid switch.

3) The manifolds on the CUCV M1008/1009 and the civilian 6.2L are all identical. They will even bolt up to the stock exhaust on a SBC truck too since the exits are in the same location (roughly).
 
AJMBLAZER said:
The definitive 24v ---> 12v conversion source:

http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/

Go to "Project List"

Go to "Military Vehicle Projects"

Go to "Conversion of M1008 and M1009 Electric Systems to 12 Volt "
Click to expand...

kennyw said:
1) The ONLY 24V part on a CUCV 6.2L is the starter. It is not worth trying to turn a 12V truck into 24V. You would need the entire wiring harness from the donor to go that route. Instead, if you keep it 12V all of the SBC wiring is very close if not the same. The only change you have to make is extending the IGN wire from the HEI to the front of the motor and hooking it up to the IP solenoid.

2) The glow plugs are 12V on the CUCV with a large resistor to convert 24V down to 12V. Leave off the resistor and use the solenoid on the donor vehicle. Just hook up a manual button on the dash to the ground leg of the solenoid switch.

3) The manifolds on the CUCV M1008/1009 and the civilian 6.2L are all identical. They will even bolt up to the stock exhaust on a SBC truck too since the exits are in the same location (roughly).
Click to expand...

Interesting, so the only new part I would essentially need to buy is a 12 volt starter... The glow plugs and eeeverything else that I need to stick in my blazer to make the diesel motor work ALREADY is running on 12 volts correct? Now what about the different glow plugs mentioned before? If the glow plug system is 12 volts even on a 24 volt system, then why would I bother buy 24 volt glow plugs?

Here's what I've gathered so far. I will need all previously mentioned parts to make the diesel work in my blazer. To deal with the 24 volt system, I am going to convert it to 12 volt. In order to do that the ONLY thing I will need is a new 12 volt starter and obviously some wiring changes. Correct?
 
I've had properly working 24V and 12V system on my truck. I converted to 12V when the starter motor went kaput.

The 24 volt military starter has a higher wattage rating than the highest I could find in a gear reduction 6.5td 12V starter.

That 24V starter spun the engine like it was a toy. The 12V starter less so, even with upgraded wiring running to it... but I can also still start the truck in VERY low temps without issue.

So, 12V all the way.

The only reason to go with 24V glow plugs (like humvee) is to avoid the voltage drop and associated power loss across the resistors. If the resistors aren't working and you have 12V glow plugs, you need to run the glow plugs off of just one battery (if you retain the 24V starter)... and that can really kill an old battery quick.

I've had luck with the AC60G spark plugs (think that's the number) and a manual switch. Heard Kennedy's are good as previously stated.
 
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You can keep the two 12V alternators on the CUCV motor now and just keep one as a spare as well. If the current glow plugs work you can keep using them, but if they need to be replaced then the Kennedy's or AC60G's are good.

I would take the radiator, radiator mounting brackets, oil cooler lines, fan shroud, motor mounts, engine, engine accessories/brackets, hydroboost brake booster w/ oil lines, and brake pedal from the donor truck.
 
I'm going to stick to the 24 volt system just for now to save me money so I dont have to buy a new starter. I'll change it when I have problems with the system, but for now I'll just save the money. The blazer I'm putting this diesel into has a 700r4 transmission. I ordered the TV cable today from the dealer, but they dont make the bracket that bolts to the head that holds the tv cable to the motor anymore. Anyone know where I can get one of those?
 
Ok, I've got most of the parts sitting in my garage now. Next question...

The truck I got the engine out of is running a TH400 trans, mine is a 700r4. The torque converter I have is a higher than stock stall converter that was put in it to "make up for the low gears" as the trans rebuilder put it. Obviously this is no good for running a diesel. Will the torque converter out of the donor truck with the th400 work in my blazer with a 700r4. I haven't really read any conclusive arguments, so hopefully someone here knows :). Thanks
 
Jimmard said:
Ok, I've got most of the parts sitting in my garage now. Next question...

The truck I got the engine out of is running a TH400 trans, mine is a 700r4. The torque converter I have is a higher than stock stall converter that was put in it to "make up for the low gears" as the trans rebuilder put it. Obviously this is no good for running a diesel. Will the torque converter out of the donor truck with the th400 work in my blazer with a 700r4. I haven't really read any conclusive arguments, so hopefully someone here knows :). Thanks
Click to expand...

Definitely not.
The th400 TC is different from the 700R4 TC
I have one for the 700R4 if you don't want to buy new.
 
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