@4X4HIGH rebuilt it around 2010, it does not have a ton of milage on it, just feels loose. ill look up a video.You can adjust the backlash in it and tighten it up. There should be videos on the YouTube. I think both red and blue are equally good. I heard a guy left one of them to start the other. I was gonna put one on my super duty. Ended up with Napa reman on both it and my K5. For what I do they seem fine.
I have cross over, I have a inch pound but ( non click? you mean when it reaches the desired inch lb?)You have cross over? If not double check the pitman is tight on sector shaft.
It is best to remove box and adjust on bench using an inch pound non clicking torque wrech to check.
I'll have to get a bender inch pound wrench then.Bender type or dial type, only way to read rotational torque, for us. I am sure an engineer has built a machine to do it.
No it's now a DD shaftDo you have the original rag joint on the steering input?
It's the same before the spring swap, I do need to do an alignment at some point. I don't think the springs changed the caster. But I'm not 100% sure. I'll call you later tonight if yo u are free.Toe-in set after the new springs and tie rod? Did the new springs change the caster? Air pressure in tires checked?
Toe-in set after the new springs and tie rod? Did the new springs change the caster? Air pressure in tires checked?
I'm not sure what you mean. Boregson or XJ shafts are the common upgrades. The double D connection is at the steering column.No it's now a DD shaft
We replaced the rag joint with a flaming river coupler.I'm not sure what you mean. Boregson or XJ shafts are the common upgrades. The double D connection is at the steering column.
That’s how I’ve done all of mine. Just make sure the set screws are tight, though I’ve never had any issuesWe replaced the rag joint with a flaming river coupler.
I'll check them when I get back into town this weekendThat’s how I’ve done all of mine. Just make sure the set screws are tight, though I’ve never had any issues