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m1008 starter

There are pros and cons to each setup. Starters and alternators can be rebuilt. I like the way it works now (24V). You can still jump start other vehicles with the 24 V if you just use the front battery. Why would some one do the conversion unless their starter and alternator pooped out at the same time?
 
CUCV2 said:
Why would some one do the conversion unless their starter and alternator pooped out at the same time?
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I think in the civilian world that is generally the driving factor, either that or major electrical wiring problems. The fire service instructions I posted also listed a few reasons relating to auxiliary fire fighting apparatus being mounted on the truck.
 
I don't have any other military vehicles. My deuce and a half is a LONG ways off to be realistic. I already removed and sold the slave receptacle and it's wires this summer. IF I get another 24v vehicle it will be another Chevy CUCV so I just don't have a use for 24v.

Not to mention most people get screwy looks and/or high priced estimates when they want to get their 24v starters and alternators rebuilt. Yeah, a few people seem to know ol' Zeke who'll do it for a 6 pack and 20 bucks but the rest of us don't.
 
Another problem, if your CUCV has 2 dead batteries how do you get a jump from a 12V rig? :doah:
 
There is a way...someone on SS mentioned the procedure one time but the eternal optomist in me didn't read it closely...
 
kennyw said:
Another problem, if your CUCV has 2 dead batteries how do you get a jump from a 12V rig? :doah:
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You don't, but you could get a jump from two 12v rigs, or at worst case, connect them so that the batteries could charge for a few minutes and then start it. It'd be a bit tricky, but no reason it couldn't be done. Worst case you could get it started with their batteries and then drive home with the dead batteries, as long as it's not nighttime, there's really nothing that you need electric for, running-wise.
 
hobie237 said:
there's really nothing that you need electric for, running-wise.
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You still need 12V to the solenoid on the IP to keep the fuel flowing, but if you read my little story about driving home with no alternator... it will go a long time with the headlights on and still restart.
 
Forgot about that little bugger, but it can't draw that much power- I'd imagine that the batteries could get pretty low before you'd shut down because of that.
 
I don't know what voltage it would end up shutting down at... but I ran home with no alternator belt in the dark with the headlights on, then got stuck in traffic. The biggest draw was the headlights on for 2+ hours. I got home and shut it off for two days. I came back and installed a rebuilt alternator and new belt. Then turned on the key, waited for the glow plugs, then hit the starter without putting a battery charger on it, it started up as fast as normal. The starter didn't even turn over slow.

As far as jumping with two 12V rigs, it's possible. But it is also hard enough to find one person who can give you a jump most of the time. I wonder if a tow truck would be equipped to handle a 24V jump start?
 
Similar thing happened to my buddy's Blazer (M1009)- one alternator seized, tossed the belt, which tossed the OTHER alternator belt as well, while he was on a trip up to NJ. Wound up completing the trip (at night) and the return trip the subsequent day (not sure whether day or night) without issue, got the alternator fixed and back in, fired right up. The headlights, I believe, should just draw down the front battery, so I guess even if it crapped out, you could swap the batteries and keep going a little farther. Maybe. Dunno.

No idea whether tow trucks would be set up for a 24v jump- but then again, no idea how many other 24v systems there are out there.

You are correct that it'd be a pain to find two people to provide jumps at the same time, I was thinking about an off-road context in which you're with a group.
 
A long time ago I used to work with a guy that rebuilt alternators and starters for medium duty trucks and they were 24v, he used to charge them the same as a 12v, after all it's not more work or more expensive parts:confused:
But now I drive an 18wheeler and oddly enough, it has 4 big batteries and it runs on 12v???
I forgot it with lights on once and the batteries were drained, I called AAA and they didn't want to even try, so I called my uncle who lived 5 miles away from where I was, and he gave me a jump from his Subaru:D
12v is definitely more convenient in that way if you live in the civilian world and might need help (because you run old junk that always needs attention like me...)
 
Running batteries in parallel gives constant voltage and higher amperage. Series gives constant amperage and higher voltage. I once jumped a compressor that was 12v, 4 batteries in parallel, and while it worked (I used my S-10, which had a 1000CCA deep cycle marine battery), my alternator started going wonky, and died a few months later, which I don't think was unrelated.
 
Pretty good insight in this thread. Rebuilding a 24V starter is no bigger deal than rebuilding a 12V. The prices may vary but if you can do one, you should be able to do the other with out trying to find an "old zeke" :D. The common usage of the 12V system does make the conversion more appealing. The jumping of 24V system should be discussed further since trying to jump two batteries in SERIES is different than jumping in parallel. You can jump the forward most battery with another vehicle that is 12V and depending on your situation, it may be enough to start it. But hooking jumpers up to the rearward battery would be bad news since one post is 24V and the other is 12V (vs 12 and ground in a parallel or single battery system) . I have wondered what I would do if I needed to charge both batteries and the best solution I have is to check the batteries to make sure they are still good, disconnect the rear battery and put it on a charger. When it is charged, you should be able to put jumper cables on the front battery and have it start. And FWIW the batteries in the CUCV can take a pretty good draw before it will have an issue. I accidently hit the black light switch and the lights were on overnight. It still started right up the next day. Just some food for thought.
 
My thought on jump starting... I don't think hooking up two seperate vehicles with jumper cables (one to each battery) would be any different than the dual alternator system with an isolated ground. As long as you don't let the vehicles touch in any way so the grounds are isolated, I think it could work.

But, when I had my M1028 I just disconnected both batteries and charged them seperately when needed.
 
CUCV2, take a multimeter and measure the voltage across each battery with the system hooked up. I bet you still get 12V on both batteries measuring from positive to negative posts.
 
kennyw said:
CUCV2, take a multimeter and measure the voltage across each battery with the system hooked up. I bet you still get 12V on both batteries measuring from positive to negative posts.
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You do. Had a bit of experience with this last summer.:crazy:
 
I took an electrical class one time and thought that in series adds up the voltage, hence the 24 V. That is why the 12V positive side of the first battery is hooked up to the negative of the second battery. Then the positive of the rear battery becomes a 24V (12 + 12). If you disconnect them they are basically 12V batteries by themselves. Not saying I am 100% on this because I did fall asleep a couple times in class. With that said, I have two CUCVs and did try to jump start one from the other before I endded up replacing the batteries. I connected the corresponding negative on the front batteries and what I think is the 24V positive post on the rear batteries. This experiment ended up with a spark or two until I disconnected the jumper cables. Guess I should have stayed awake more in class. I wrote it off to the batteries since they would not take a charge on the charger either. That or the jumper cables were not the right guage for a 24V jump.
 
Yes, connecting batteries in series adds up the voltage, and averages the amperage, while parallel arrangements add up the amperage and average the voltage. See post #32.
 
hobie237 said:
Yes, connecting batteries in series adds up the voltage, and averages the amperage, while parallel arrangements add up the amperage and average the voltage. See post #32.
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Yet, if you measure the voltage on the back battery across the two posts, it will still read 12V because your only "seeing" half of the battery system. This is the only reason GM was able to use two 12V alternators to charge the 24V system. It just requires the Isolated ground so that the 2 halves stay seperate subsystems.
 
Yeah, the voltage you measure is different depending on what you measure relative to. Positive post of second battery relative to its negative post is 12v, whereas it would be 24v relative to chassis ground. Isolated ground alternator is a great trick to make sure that you can make the ground whatever you want (in this case, +12v), so that the second alternator's output adds 12v to 12v to get 24v. Neat little trick, really.
 
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