Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
That cabel idea, sounds really good
I think the whole bed is flapping...
The cab is in pretty good shape (rust-wise), but I think the paint is all that is holding the bed together
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CK5
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M1010 K30 -- Budget build (Back from the dead and considering 54" springs...)
- Thread starter Fred_M1010
- Start date
That cabel idea, sounds really good
I think the whole bed is flapping...
The cab is in pretty good shape (rust-wise), but I think the paint is all that is holding the bed together
frikenwoodro
Registered Member
Got any pics on the upper rear shock mounts? and what size shocks did you use?
OffRoad
1/2 ton status
I like how flappy your bed is. It's beater-tastic.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
I used the stock mounts.
Here you can see one of them:
The rear shocks are Procomp 926505 with 11" stroke.
I first thought I would need a longer stroke, but since they sit at an angle, and are pretty close to the axles center as well,
they don't need to be very long to allow a good flex.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
Some more winter-videos 
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86chevyk10
1/2 ton status
love the truck! love the wheelin! 
dfl701
1/2 ton status
i think part of your bed is about to fall off in that second video
Man, is it just the video recorder or is yours very quiet in the cab? Mine's FAR louder than that.
Love the vidoes, awesome again!
Love the vidoes, awesome again!
We need to go wheelin together SOON
Move to some where warmer!!!
As Sam Kinison said, we have deserts, but we don't fuc ken live in them!
As Sam Kinison said, we have deserts, but we don't fuc ken live in them!
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
Thanks guys, I do my best to keep you entertained
Nah, I like the snow.
Well maybe not so much yesterday, when I had to shovel the snow of the roof of my barn
But the worst thing is, it's now so deep (3-4') so I can't go wheeling anymore
I'm afraid I don't have any means of transportation, but you're welcome to come to Säffle anytime!
I might try to go to the chevy-fullsize offroad event this summer though.
I dunno, but both intake and exhaust are stock on mine, so maybe it is a little quiet...
I will probably open up the exhaust soon though
Nah, I like the snow.
Well maybe not so much yesterday, when I had to shovel the snow of the roof of my barn
But the worst thing is, it's now so deep (3-4') so I can't go wheeling anymore
I'm afraid I don't have any means of transportation, but you're welcome to come to Säffle anytime!
I might try to go to the chevy-fullsize offroad event this summer though.
I dunno, but both intake and exhaust are stock on mine, so maybe it is a little quiet...
I will probably open up the exhaust soon though
Huh.
I've added a cold air tube from the core support to the air filter housing and Cherry Bomb mufflers instead of the factory mufflers...and it was loud before. Mine just clanks. Does yours have firewall and hood insulation?
I've added a cold air tube from the core support to the air filter housing and Cherry Bomb mufflers instead of the factory mufflers...and it was loud before. Mine just clanks. Does yours have firewall and hood insulation?
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
hmm, I can't recall having any insulation, but I'll check that...
It could be that I'm used to the noise-levels of the cumminsdiesel in my dodge.
That one have hardly any insulation.
The PO teared it down to pieces when he imported it from the US (to avoid taxes and fees
).
And I guess he didn't think insulation was very important when he put it back together again,
it didn't even have the rubber-grommet for the transfercase-lever, when I bought it...
When I think about it, it could also be that the whole undercarriage of the K30 is covered by a 1' layer of sound-deadening ice and snow
It could be that I'm used to the noise-levels of the cumminsdiesel in my dodge.
That one have hardly any insulation.
The PO teared it down to pieces when he imported it from the US (to avoid taxes and fees
).And I guess he didn't think insulation was very important when he put it back together again,
it didn't even have the rubber-grommet for the transfercase-lever, when I bought it...
When I think about it, it could also be that the whole undercarriage of the K30 is covered by a 1' layer of sound-deadening ice and snow
That could be it then!
FWIW I've heard putting the sound deadener under the hood quiets it down a lot so I was wondering if yours has it. Could also just be the camera's mic not picking up the sound.
FWIW I've heard putting the sound deadener under the hood quiets it down a lot so I was wondering if yours has it. Could also just be the camera's mic not picking up the sound.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
I got a dana 60 E-locker in my mailbox yesterday
Unfortunately I ordered new bearings and shims from another place, so I'll probably have to wait a couple of weeks before I can install it
In the meantime I've started to work on the electrical system, and preparing for relocating the batteries to the bed.
I will keep the 24V system.
So sorry Ronnie, the starter is not for sale
I've also installed new poly-bushings for the front springs.
I hope this will be enough to cure the side-ways wandering.
Once again I enlisted the help of my good friend Robert, to help me with some turning.
We made spacers for the bushings.
I used washers previously, but that won't work well with poly-bushings.
The spacers needs to be at least the same outer diameter as the bushings.
The ones in the front I had to tweak some on the outboard surfaces since the hangers aren't perfectly flat.
Strangely enough, one of the springs had a 1.5" eye in one end and a 1.75" eye in the other.
We made an adapter with a good press-fit, so we could use 1.5" bushings everywhere
Unfortunately I ordered new bearings and shims from another place, so I'll probably have to wait a couple of weeks before I can install it
In the meantime I've started to work on the electrical system, and preparing for relocating the batteries to the bed.
I will keep the 24V system.
So sorry Ronnie, the starter is not for sale
I've also installed new poly-bushings for the front springs.
I hope this will be enough to cure the side-ways wandering.
Once again I enlisted the help of my good friend Robert, to help me with some turning.
We made spacers for the bushings.
I used washers previously, but that won't work well with poly-bushings.
The spacers needs to be at least the same outer diameter as the bushings.
The ones in the front I had to tweak some on the outboard surfaces since the hangers aren't perfectly flat.
Strangely enough, one of the springs had a 1.5" eye in one end and a 1.75" eye in the other.
We made an adapter with a good press-fit, so we could use 1.5" bushings everywhere
I did the same with the poly bushings then .250 washers to take up the space. I like the idea of the flat steel welded between the shackles on an angle seems better than just straight would work better since it would take longer to hit on the frame if it ever made it that far. Let me know when you get the locker in and how you like it, id like to do that and get drive slugs. For the hood insulation, mine didnt have any either when i bought the truck.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
Thanks, I'll be back with a report as soon as possible (I hope)
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
Now I've received some stuff I ordered from WFO-concepts.
(The steering arm spacer is for my dodge)
Since the axle doesn't sit in the center of the spring when using 56" springs,
I've really needed to adress my front pinion angle.
First I measured my caster-angle, by measuring the angle of my steering arm.
It was 12 degrees, and I think it's about 8 degrees stock.
I've heard that some people have as little as 3 degrees, but I bought 6 degree shims, so I would get 6 degrees of caster.
Since I have a dana 60 I need two shims for the passenger-side,
so the bolts or studs goes through the springplate at right angle.
I choose to get them from WFO, since they designed them to be bolted to the springpack with the centerpin,
and also because all others I've seen only sells them in pairs.
Unfortunately the recessed area wasn't big enough to fit a M10 nut
(I'm using class12.9 M10 bolts with grinded heads for centerpins)
So I had to mill that out on one if them.
But they have informed me that they will fix this in the future.
I also decided to add a pair of slightly shortened overload leafs while I were at it.
I soon realized that the centerpins gets sligthly relocated because of the angle-shims.
So I had to mill out the centerpin holes in my spring plates some
I've done the milling myself this time, if you're wondering why it looks like crap
You can calculate how much the centerpins moves, so you don't have to guess about how much to mill.
Just to show of my wicked MS-paint skills, I made a couple of drawings
Driver-side:
The centerpin moves forward according to this formula:
D=R*sin a
R=the radius of the axletube plus the height of the spring perch (11cm),
and the angle "a" is the same as the shim angle (6 degree)
So, D=11,5mm
And the passenger-side:
Here the centerpin moves BACKWARDS instead
D=L*sin a
L= The thickness of the spring-pack measured along the centerpin (in my case 8cm),
and the angle "a" is still the same as the angle-shim.
So, D=8,4mm
I've also cut down the kingpin-cap and welded it to the steering arm,
as I should have done from the beginning.
Thanks for the reminder, MTBLAZER89
(The steering arm spacer is for my dodge
)Since the axle doesn't sit in the center of the spring when using 56" springs,
I've really needed to adress my front pinion angle.
First I measured my caster-angle, by measuring the angle of my steering arm.
It was 12 degrees, and I think it's about 8 degrees stock.
I've heard that some people have as little as 3 degrees, but I bought 6 degree shims, so I would get 6 degrees of caster.
Since I have a dana 60 I need two shims for the passenger-side,
so the bolts or studs goes through the springplate at right angle.
I choose to get them from WFO, since they designed them to be bolted to the springpack with the centerpin,
and also because all others I've seen only sells them in pairs.
Unfortunately the recessed area wasn't big enough to fit a M10 nut
(I'm using class12.9 M10 bolts with grinded heads for centerpins)
So I had to mill that out on one if them.
But they have informed me that they will fix this in the future.
I also decided to add a pair of slightly shortened overload leafs while I were at it.
I soon realized that the centerpins gets sligthly relocated because of the angle-shims.
So I had to mill out the centerpin holes in my spring plates some
I've done the milling myself this time, if you're wondering why it looks like crap
You can calculate how much the centerpins moves, so you don't have to guess about how much to mill.
Just to show of my wicked MS-paint skills, I made a couple of drawings
Driver-side:
The centerpin moves forward according to this formula:
D=R*sin a
R=the radius of the axletube plus the height of the spring perch (11cm),
and the angle "a" is the same as the shim angle (6 degree)
So, D=11,5mm
And the passenger-side:
Here the centerpin moves BACKWARDS instead
D=L*sin a
L= The thickness of the spring-pack measured along the centerpin (in my case 8cm),
and the angle "a" is still the same as the angle-shim.
So, D=8,4mm
I've also cut down the kingpin-cap and welded it to the steering arm,
as I should have done from the beginning.
Thanks for the reminder, MTBLAZER89
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The bolt in axle shims worked well for my spring swap too, instead of the raised steering block i bought a thicker arm that had the raise built in, that was for my crossover to gain clearance.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
I don't really like the idea of a steering arm spacer,
but I couldn't find any raised steering arms that were designed for regular push-pull steering.
And I don't feel the need for crossover on the Dodge.
I'm planning on using an adjustable drag-link from a Chevy.
I think it would be possible if i'll swap the sector-shaft from a Chevy 4wd steering box,
so I can use the angled style Chevy pitman arm.
I might get a pitman arm that's dropped as well,
and mill down the spacer an inch or so instead...
but I couldn't find any raised steering arms that were designed for regular push-pull steering.
And I don't feel the need for crossover on the Dodge.
I'm planning on using an adjustable drag-link from a Chevy.
I think it would be possible if i'll swap the sector-shaft from a Chevy 4wd steering box,
so I can use the angled style Chevy pitman arm.
I might get a pitman arm that's dropped as well,
and mill down the spacer an inch or so instead...
