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Magik's 1987 Jimmy - Jiminy

magik235

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magik235 submitted a new Build:

Magik's 1987 Jimmy - Jiminy

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I got it on 1/31/10. 1987 GMC Jimmy rebuilt 350 tbi, TH350 transmission, NP208 transfer case, Dana 44HD 8 lug front axle with locking hubs, GM FF14 bolt 8 lug posi rear axle with 4.56 gears front and rear, 35x12.5x15 Kumho Venture MTs,15x10 chrome steel wheels , 6 inch suspension lift, no body lift, headers with glass packs and the body needs help.

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Read more about this build here...
 
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magik235

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I tested Jiminy out in the woods the next day. It handled the current conditions with no problems. It definitely rides higher than my Wrangler or S10 so branches scraped the roof periodically.

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magik235

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On 2/7/10 I removed both tail pipes from the mufflers back. I want to improve the mounting system, strength and clearance.

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I tore the driver's side door apart and removed the electric window motor. It was froze so I could not move the window. I need to be able to open the window to check clearance when driving.

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magik235

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Jiminy's new exhaust configuration. I gained clearance and strength plus I don't have pipes sticking out the sides.

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Next I started working on the inside of Jiminy. Most of the floor is solid except along the tailgate. I have to determine how to seal the holes in the back to keep the exhaust out and the tailgate secure.

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magik235

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A couple days later. It might be repairable. I will know more after I clean it up. If the tailgate fell off and the body panels sprung out, it would have been sawzall time. I am a little concerned the crack in the side window is a stress crack from no support in the back.

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Window crack.

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I got the rusty material removed complete with the required blood sacrifice. I was disappointed but not completely surprised that the frame was rusted out under the body support pads. Notice the holes.

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magik235

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By 2/21/10 I was working on the frame. The 2 smaller pieces will tie the repaired frame area to the rear shackle support bracket and the rear bumper support bracket.

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The driver's side welded. The passenger side will use the same format.

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The passenger side welded.

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On 2/25/10 I filled the transfer case with 2.5 quarts of Castrol's Dex/Merc ATF and added .5 quart of Lucas' ATF additive then checked the torque of all the transfer case's bolts. I changed 3 spark plugs before the the last one on the driver's side beat me for the day. Headers complicate the process and I need to modify a wrench or socket to fit. I tried every 5/8 wrench and socket I had including a couple that had been previously modified for special applications.

On 2/26/10 I finished changing spark plugs. I cut a chain saw plug wrench in half to fit the buried plug. I inspected the engine compartment then zip tied all wires and cables. I have to find a better way to access the engine compartment than standing on the tires and bending over the fender. My chest was sore and bruised.
 

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Jeep grille as a workbench..... For the win!

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magik235

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I started working on the tailgate area the next day. I cut away rust under the quarter panels and determined where the body was solid enough to jack it. I finished the day by changing the oil and filter.

Next I got the body supported at the correct height so the tail gate works. The side window did not crack anymore when the body was jacked into place. Notice the blood sacrifice.

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The tailgate area sealed up for now. The plan is still to cut up Jiminy this spring but if I decide I like the large interior space I will fiberglass the entire area.

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On 3/3/10 I am having fun changing the automatic transmission's filter. ATF is covering my hands and running down my arms to my elbows then a sticking pan gasket. Ooops! For those of you who have never changed ATF before, it is like draining your engine oil onto the floor then wiping it up. I knew there was a reason I like manual transmissions.

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The transmission is all back together again. Notice the Summit Racing chrome flywheel cover.

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3/4/10 - Today I was carefully inspecting brake lines. Part of the rear line was so rusted it broke when I poked it. I am amazed it had not started to leak. I will change the entire line to be safe.

3/5/10 - I installed a new brake line from the proportioning unit back to the rear hose fitting. I reduced the proportioning unit's fitting to 3/16 so all the line fittings will be the same. I had to order a rear hose so I will not be able to finish until Monday.

3/6/10 - I attached the air conditioning lines to the body. I scraped off some of the window decals, wiped the window down with Xylene then applied Marine Goop to the crack. Marine Goop was recommended to me by 3M's tech support for a specialized application when I was building a boat. Since then I have used it in a variety of applications including underwater where if it failed my boat would sink. Finally I sanded some of the surface rust and applied rust converter.

3/7/10 - I slopped on Bondo and primer to cover some small holes and open rust spots. It was to be temporary until after the March Run.

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Plenty of room to work. At least, I am warm and dry. There is less room on the other side.

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3/8/10 - Today I taped, sanded and applied rust converter to a large rust spot on the roof. Then I finished everything in the engine compartment. Some day I might start dressing it up but not today or tomorrow.

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3/9/10 - I primed the large rust spot on the roof. I finished installing the the rear brake line and bled the brake system.

I have finished the initial inspection, repair and maintenance phase. Jiminy can be driven. Now I have to decide if I should leave Jiminy in the shed and keep working on him until the ground drys out later this spring or get him outside and use him before the ground thaws.
 

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3/12/10 - I picked up and cleaned all the tools I had used for recent projects on Jiminy then put them away. After that I tore the instrument panel apart to get at the clock and disconnect it. The clock did not work and it had an intermittent growl that annoyed me.

I just ordered $107 worth of polished aluminum diamond plate from http://www.metalsdepot.com
This will give me enough material to do the lower 12 inches from the front of the door back including rocker panels and the rear corners. The front section is completely solid.

3/13/10 - I put the instrument panel back together. I got the rear seat out of the back and onto the junk pile. I cut an access hole above the sending unit so I can get at the gas lines. I am going to change a section of them to eliminate rust since it is sitting in the shed. I started it just to hear it run for awhile.

3/14/10 - I removed the carpeting and under layers of padding in the back. I got the metal fuel lines disconnected from the tank to where the gas filter was mounted. I will be replacing about 10 feet of lines.

3/16/10 - I finished repairing the gas lines. I replaced the rusted sections with a combination of high presure hoses and brake lines. Then I greased all the zerk fittings. The underside is now done.

3/17/10 - I ground off the bolts on the front body mounts in the cargo area then removed the body mount pads. I welded a plate on top of one of the body mounts that was rusted to reinforce it. I cut a piece of treated plywood to use on the floor section instead the original style padding that trapped moisture and was water logged.

3/18/10 - I installed my 3/4" plywood subfloor with construction adhesive and screws. It will not only increase the structural integrity of the cargo area it will provide a solid platform for building improvements in the future.

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magik235

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3/20/10 - I got my diamond plate and picked up stainless steel screws and nuts. After finalizing an action plan, I started cutting out the rust shown in the pictures below using a Sawzall and cut off grinder.

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3/21/10 - I got the preliminary cuts, fitting and installation completed for the diamond plate on the drivers side. I still need to determine the shape of the cuts around the wheel opening.

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3/22/10 - I finished cut and fitted all the pieces of diamond plate on the driver's side. It takes awhile to cut the pieces when using a 4" cut off grinder.

3/23/10 - I removed all the diamond plate then sanded, cleaned with Xylene, applied rust converter and taped off the panels and the top of the tailgate. After that I fixed the tailgate latch so I could use it to open the tailgate.

3/24/10 - I primed with Pettit's Rustlock Steel Primer and applied Herculiner to the panels that will be covered with diamond plate and the top of the tailgate.

3/25/10 - I cut out rusty sections then sanded, cleaned with Xylene, applied rust converter and taped off the panels on the passenger side. Then I cut off the side step. It was a tight fit with annoying working conditions. I repeatedly hit my head on the shelf supports. There was no room to get away from sparks when grinding so now my face feels like I was welding without a shield. At least it was warm and dry.

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3/26/10 - Jiminy is back outside. I got more done than originally planned when it went into the shed. I was extremely fortunate and happy that it fit into the shed.

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3/29/10 - I spent the morning at tire stores in Wausau pricing 35 x 12.50 tires and checking if any of them had a used one for a spare. No luck. I also stopped at Yaeger's Auto Salvage to see if they had an 8 lug rim. They had one but wanted $40 for it so I passed.

When I got home I cut out the passenger side diamond plate panels. Then I cut off the passenger side rocker panel. Finally I hand filed all the diamond plate panels to remove the cut off wheel residue.

3/30/10 - Passenger side primed. Hopefully it will be warm enough tomorrow to apply Herculiner.

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Passenger side diamond plate fitted.

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3/31/10 - I put 2 coats of Herculiner on the lower door and the side panels behind it. While it was drying I installed the diamond plate on the driver's side since I had Herculined this side when it was in the shed. I always seal the edges with a bead of silicon so I had to wait until it was warm enough.

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4/1/10 - I installed the passenger side diamond plate today.
 

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4/9/10 - I am going to chicken out of taking Jiminy to Mudhunter's tomorrow. I put on another 60 miles looking at tires, trying to get the rope plug shown below patched and looking for a spare. Everyone says the hole is too big and too close to the edge to patch. They all agreed it would be risky driving 200+ miles on the tire. I did not find a spare. I will have to take Cricket instead. The goal is to help Mudhunter with his obstacle course not spend the day in a ditch jacking around with a tire.

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4/26/10 - I bought 2 new 35X12.50X15 Dunlop Mud Rovers for the front. They are noticeably quieter than the Kumhos I replaced. It is good that I did not take it to Mudhunter's work day. All the valve stems were severely rotted in addition to the plug not having a patch.

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4/29/10 - When I got my new front tires mounted, the service technician noticed that one of my brake pads on the front passenger side was not installed correctly. Today I removed the caliper and installed the pad correctly. Now it pulls a little to one side since there is a high spot on the pad that was installed wrong. I drove it about 25 miles and it is getting better.

5/1/10 - My O2 sensor was just tack welded to the collector so today I cut it out. I ran into town and bought a new sensor and bung. I welded the bung over the existing hole then installed the new O2 sensor.

5/18/10 - I finally got a significant ATF leak at the adapter between the TH 350 transmission and NP 208 transfer case fixed. One of the 4 studs that mount the transfer case had completely stripped the treads out of the transmission. During the process I started wondering if my driveshaft was too short. I decided it was and took it in to get lengthened. I hope it is done before the Memorial weekend.

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5/25/10 - I picked up my lengthened and balanced driveshaft yesterday afternoon then painted it. Today I installed it. Now I can go to Mudhunter's on Friday.

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5/26/10 - I spent a couple of hours this evening extracting the stubs of 2 broken 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts that attach the passenger rear axle. I can't believe they should be torqued to 115 foot pounds.
 

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5/29/10 - Mudhunter’s rock pile was straight forward with no problems.

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The log trail was a different story. Jiminy ate a log on the first run. I needed a tug to move forward. Thank you Wade for your assistance. With the front wheel hanging, I learned I need longer front brake hoses. This was confirmed on the RTI ramp so no Pit of Doom this Year.

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I turned around and had no problems with the log trail on the second attempt.

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magik235

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6/9/10 - I have a GM 350 TBI. The Service Engine Soon light has been coming on periodically. When I test with a jumper I get a Code 13 indicating the oxygen sensor circuit. I mounted a new Bosch O2 sensor in the collector part of my header. I welded the bung on the outside of the collector. It did not solve the problem.

I have headers installed. The original O2 sensor was cobbled into the header collector. It threw the Code 13 as well that is why I installed a new one. I welded the bung over the existing hole. One of my concerns is that exhaust temperatures at the collector do not reach 600 degrees to properly activate the O2 sensor. I am debating switching to a heated 3 wire O2 sensor but I do not want to just start throwing money at the problem without exploring all options.

6/14/10 - I bought a 4 wire O2 sensor that I have to modify to fit and the parts to make a ALDL cable for use with my laptop.

6/15/10 - I built a wire harness for the 4 lead oxygen sensor then installed it.

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6/23/10 - I installed the 4 wire O2 sensor but still got the Service Engine Soon light. As always, it stayed on until I turned off the ignition.

The previous owner disconnected the hose to the EGR and plugged it. When the light came on I connected the EGR. I could then drive the light out but the vehicle would not idle. I eventually disconnected the EGR hose at the throttle body and plugged it. Now the vehicle idles and after 35 miles the light did not come on yet.

Yesterday I built the WINALDL interface cable. When I tried running WINALDL on my laptop it could not open the serial port so I was not able to get any data from the ECM. Tonight I reconfigured my laptop so WINALDL can open Com 1. I will try getting data again tomorrow.

6/24/10 - I got WINALDL working. Two of the screens are shown below. Now I have to figure out what all the parameters mean.

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Screen 2 indicates the speed sensor must be present by the numbers in the MPH row. I drove a short distance to determine if there was a change in values. I bet the speedometer being off confuses the ECM.

GPS.......Speedometer.......Tachometer
25.........30........................900
35.........42........................1400
45.........54........................1900
55.........66........................2400
65.........78........................2900

7/3/10 - I haven't had time to work on Jiminy lately. The Service Engine Soon light still comes on after driving for a while. When the light comes on WINALDL indicates the O2 rich error code. My assessment is the disconnected EGR results in a rich mixture that triggers the light. Next week I will replace the EGR.

7/5/10 - I bought an EGR from Carquest. When I got home, I found out the directions stated I needed to know the original part number to determine the orifice washer size I would have to install in the EGR using a center punch to peen it in place. I looked on the web then called Carquest to see if they knew the original part number or if it was listed on their computer. They didn't know it so I had to drive another 20 miles. I was going to return it but when I looked at their computer screen the original part number was listed. I went home installed a .042 orifice washer in the ERG then put it in Jiminy.

7/6/10 - I took it for a test ride today. I recycled 19 gallons of oil and went to the dog's vet. After 45 minutes of driving, the light came. When I got home I read the codes and it was the dreaded EGR Code 32. My vacuum solenoid has two output ports. The one that was capped off had better control of the vacuum so I connected the EGR to this port and capped the other. A continuous 1.5 hour drive resulted in no light.

The WINALDL interface cable I built is pictured below. I think WINALDL is a useful program.

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magik235

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7/20/10 - I ordered extended stainless steel brake lines for Jiminy.

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7/27/10 - When Jiminy ate the log on Mudhunter's log trail on Memorial weekend, the front end drooped so far the body twisted. When I opened the door to assess the situation I dented the front door and fender. With all the rain this summer, it was starting to rust so I slopped some Bondo on the area and primed it.

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7/30/10 - I picked up my extended stainless steel brake lines yesterday. I couldn't have them delivered since the 11.75 inches of rain we had so far in July has washed out the driveway. After laying on wet ground to replace a section of tail pipe today, I decided I had to reconfigure the garage door so I could get Jiminy into the garage before I changed the brake lines. The ground is so wet and soft I can't get Jiminy to the shed without severely rutting the yard. So instead of installing brake lines, I worked on the garage but at least Jiminy is inside again tonight.

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7/31/10 - The new front brake lines are installed. Tomorrow I have to add fluid and bleed them. The new Skyjacker lines installed relatively easy. Since I would have to bleed the lines anyway, I decided to change both front hard lines as well. This was a different story. They hassled me every step of the way but it was still worth the trouble.

8/1/10 - New extended stainless steel brake lines installed and tested.

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I have owned Jiminy for 6 months on July 31, 2010. I am making progress but money is always a factor. My budget builds are much less than budget builds on weekend TV. I still have a long way to go before it is finished but at least I can confidently drive it off road now within its limitations.
 

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8/17/10 -
I pulled my speedometer drive unit. I have a 35 tooth gear installed. The unit had markings for 36, 37, 38 and 39 tooth gears. If I get a 39 tooth gear, it will put me closer to actual speed and provide the computer with more accurate information but my calculations indicate the speedometer will still read higher then actual. The chart below from http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm states I need a 39 tooth gear.

With 15 Tooth Drive Gear
Axle Ratio...Tire Height...Driven Gear Teeth
4.56.......... 33.............42
4.56.......... 35.............39
4.10.......... 26.............45 will work, but will read about 3 MPH fast at 50 MPH.
4.10.......... 27.............45
4.10.......... 28.............44
4.10.......... 29.............43
4.10.......... 30.............41
4.10.......... 31.............40
4.10.......... 33.............38
4.10.......... 35.............35

8/24/10 - I installed a 39 tooth speedometer gear replacing the original 35 tooth gear. There isn't any reference mark on the transfer case. There is a dot on the hold down fork. When I aligned this dot with the 39 on the speedometer drive the speedometer did not work. I had to clock the speedometer drive by feel to get the speedometer working. The picture below shows my final clocking.

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8/25/10 - The boys at http://coloradok5.com told me I don't need to clock the speedometer drive when changing from a 35 tooth gear to a 39 tooth gear. Take out the old gear and put in the new one. I moved the speedometer drive back to the original position and everything works.

10/13/10 - I had to take off the fan motor and all the ducts to clean out mouse nests and a dead mouse. The heat control valve is mechanical and the position switch is vacuum operated. I currently have the vacuum door closing for the heat and defrost settings. I hope that is right.

10/14/10 - I take it out driving several times every week. Today I had a county cop following me for miles down Highway O in Marathon County. I kept waiting for him to pull me over but he finally turned off and let me ride in peace. I had to get my final batch of trim boards for the house.

10/16/10 - Jiminy is immobilized. I was testing Jiminy today as I debated going to Brillion tomorrow. Nothing serious just routine stuff when the transmission started slipping. In a short time it was slipping so bad I can barely move forward. I am really bummed. It will be more work and money without making any improvements to Jiminy.
 

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i love how consistent your effort is. A little bit day by day is the way to do it and is definitley a gift to be able to do.
 

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10/17/10 - OK I am over it. S**t happens. Like my wife said compared to all the bad experiences in your life this doesn't even rate. You changed my transmission when I wrecked it before we were married.

My To Buy / Do list list was:

2 new 35 X 12.50 X 15 MT tires
1 15 X 10 rim for the spare
4 shocks and a steering stabilizer
ORD sway bar disconnect kit
ORD shackle flip kit
Material for a belly pan

Fixing the transmission is now at the top of the list. I have to decide if I should buy a used one, get a rebuild kit and do it myself, have it rebuilt by a shop or buy an aftermarket one.

10/18/10 - I am definitely replacing it with another TH350. The short tranny helps with drive shaft angles.

$1450 - B&M performance transmission, 1800 - 2000 rpm torque converter, oil cooler and the ATF delivered. They have a special until the end of October.

Monster Transmissions as seen on Extreme 4X4 is working on a quote.

Approximately $900 for a shop rebuild with torque converter.

None at local junk yards.

It is funny how yesterday's "that's not so bad" has turned into "why in the hell did you buy that damn thing" when I mentioned $1450 to the wife.

10/22/10 - 2 1/2 hours but I got Jiminy in the garage. Sloped driveways are no good without a transmission. A winch would have been great but I need to sell Cricket first to feed Jiminy's parts addiction.

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10/24/10 - I got the transfer case out. Everything was straight forward except every time I needed a tool or supplies I had to walk to the shed for them.

Transfer case and transmission staged for removal.

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Transfer case out.

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10/25/10 - My buddy postponed helping me pull the transmission until tomorrow. Everything is removed and it is set to go. Two bolts are holding in place. I built an adapter pan that fits my jack.

10/26/10 - Today's adventure in transmission removal. The wind was howling so we closed the garage door. Jiminy is so tall it blocks the garage door windows so we used an aluminum spot light and a trouble light. I got the two remaining bolts off then we started to remove the tranny. We got the torque converter clear of the shaft and as I was set to remove it the power went off. We waited for it to come back on but it didn't. Finally we removed it in semidarkness.

The transmission cleaned and ready for rebuild.

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The aftermath of the adventure.

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10/28/10 - There are no cracks in the flexplate. I took the tranny to the rebuilder yesterday then cleaned up the mess under Jiminy. I had an urge to break out the sawzall today. :hack:
 

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10/29/10 - Today I took off the front plastic to measure for a transmission cooler. Then I started calculating cut lines for the back.

11/3/10 - I removed the driver's side front locking hub and replaced a broken allen bolt. I removed the factory transfer case adapter and cleaned the area around the input shaft. I ordered a transmission cooler and transfer case input shaft seal.

11/4/10 - I bought the transmission jack below for $80 from Harbor Freight. I lifts 24" and should be both high enough and low enough for my needs.

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11/5/10 - I cut out the old transmission cooler lines then flushed the transmission cooler. I cut up 1 1/2" X 1/4" stock into eight 6" lengths for my transfer case drop. Currently there were four 1" tube spacers for the drop. The spacers do not effectively distribute the weight on the frame resulting in cracks so they had to go. Finally I assembled my transmission jack.

11/11/10 - The guy rebuilding my transmission finally got back from hunting out west. He tore the tranny apart on Tuesday. I am going with a rebuild kit rated for applications up to 400 horsepower and a B&M shift kit.

My old transfer case drop spacers are in the center of the picture below while the new ones are on the edges. The new ones will distribute the forces exerted on the cross member over a much larger area of the frame.

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I ordered a new torque converter and bought 5/16" brake lines to make new cooler lines for the transmission.

11/14/10 - I installed my transmission cooler. It was too big to fit against the condenser so I had to build brackets for it.

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I cleaned my transfer case then installed a new input shaft seal. Finally I redid my fan shroud mounts so it would mount securely.

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11/16/10 - I pick up my tranny tomorrow at noon. My torque converter should be in at 2:00. I have everything cleaned and ready to go. With no surprise changes to my schedule, it should be on the road on Friday.

11/17/10 - The torque converter was not in today. The counter guy at NAPA swore he ordered it but the company said they didn't have an order for a TH350 torque converter and it would take 2 weeks to get one. I can't wait for 2 more weeks so I ordered a B&M torque converter that should be in on Friday. NAPA gave me a deal but it still will cost more.

11/19/10 - No torque converter today. :zombie9:

11/21/10 - I test fitted the transmission today without the torque converter to see how my new transmission jack worked. I was amazed at the improvement and control compared to a floor jack. Well worth $80. As long as I had the transmission in place, I made the output line to the radiator then connected the transmission cooler adding an inline transmission filter to the return line after the cooler. I still have to make a return line from the filter to the transmission fitting. Finally I changed my vacuum lines so the one going to the transmission was independent of other lines. I put a T in the vacuum line for my evaporation canister then connected the line for my climate controls to it.

11/22/10 - I picked up the torque converter at 3:30 today and finished installing the transmission.

11/23/10 - Not much progress tonight. I attached one of the adapters to the transfer case then put sealant on the other one and positioned in on the transmission. The transfer case with its irregular shape would not effectively sit on the transmission jack so I could line it up with the transmission. After multiple tries I gave up and ended up building a cradle for it. Now in addition to installing the transfer case tomorrow I have to scrape off all the sealant again.

11/24/10 - I got the transfer case and cross member installed. All the jacks are removed and it is finally free standing again. If I would have had a friend help me yesterday, I could have finished it today. Now it will have to wait until Friday or Saturday.

11/26/10 - Tonight I got in 4 hours of final installation of all the little stuff. I also cleaned up wiring on the under side of the vehicle. Tomorrow I install the drive shafts, add fluid and start it up.

Jiminy has been down for 6 weeks. When something breaks I like to fix it right away so this has been annoying.

11/27/10 - All done. Tomorrow I will put some miles on it.

11/28/10 - I put 50 miles on Jiminy going to Wausau for kerosene then another 25 miles getting a Christmas tree. We always need to find a Christmas tree with a bird's nest so it took most of the afternoon.

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Now I have to clean up the mess.

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