What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Making battery cables?

dyeager535

dyeager535

1 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Dec 13, 2000
Posts
31,561
Solutions
1
Reaction score
2,900
Location
Roy, Washington
Got everything disconnected/removed from the engine, unfortunately in doing so noticed the positive battery cable sheathing is burned down by the starter. It was an Exide "universal" battery cable but did not have the "proper" 90* bend at the solenoid like I'm used to with the OEM cable. I bent it, since the solenoid + terminal is right up by the block.

The cable Delco sells now for an '85 K5 (4SD65X) would be hard pressed to be more generic:
4sd65x.jpg


Since they can't get it right, I'm thinking build my own.

Going to stick with a side terminal design, and I *think* 4AWG is stock, which was enough, but I know technically it's undersized for the draw, so going up in size a bit wouldn't kill me.

Found these guys, they have much of the components...side post terminals https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/side-post-battery-terminals/

and 90* eyelets... https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/90-degree-mega-eyelets/

and cable... https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/power-cable-translucent-red-jacket/

Anyone have experience with other suppliers that carry this sort of stuff that they recommend over what I've found? Will solder hold up, or is a crimp (or crimp+solder) the best choice?
 
I am not a side post fan, I prefer top post for a better connection that I don't have to worry about stripping out the stupid hole. If you have a side post battery already that works. I don't like the looks of those side post ends. They seem kinda cheesy where they crimp on. I like to just use a regular eye terminal on the end of the cable and install a bolt with a little longer threads and some washers and a nut. Install the nut on the bolt and the washers and then screw the bolt all the way in the side post terminal and then tighten down the nut while holding the bolt with a wrench and use it like a jam nut to hold the cable to the battery. You should be able to get the 90 degree ends like that at any parts store. Parts places that do semi truck parts will also have them. I always crimp and then fill with solder and then put heat shrink over it. Or go with these ones from the same place, they will give you a better connection and just crimp, solder, and heat shrink them and they will be the best.
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/unisex-side-post-battery-terminals/
upload_2016-10-3_10-28-17.jpeg
 
All the lugs shown above will require a crimper tool https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/hand-held-hex-crimping-tool-for-large-gauge-terminals/

If you don't want to spend alot of money, try calling around to place that sells battery/ rebuilds alternators and starter and see if they can make you a cable to your specs.

Now if your planning on moving your battery to a different location or running your own winch cables in the future....Then it would be a wise investment to buy a set of crimpers.
 
I've used these on the starter ends of GM cables I made up with welding cable before...copper wire lug.jpg

You can plastic-dip them for corrosion resistance and insulation ,I used Indian Head gasket shellac on mine because I had some,it works good too..or that liquid electrical tape goop..
I got these at an electrical supply store,but I think Home Depot sells them too..

I made new cables from bulk welding cable from Tractor Supply for less than the crappy 4 gauge parts store china ones,that had no 90 degree bend,and I have tried bending those lugs and they usually crack in two--put them on the solenoid with no bend,and chances are good the cable will get roached on the exhaust manifold--or stress the plastic cap on the solenoid enough to crack it..they are brittle as glass after being heated up so much..
 
Truckman4life said:
They seem kinda cheesy where they crimp on. Or go with these ones from the same place, they will give you a better connection and just crimp, solder, and heat shrink them and they will be the best.
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/unisex-side-post-battery-terminals/
View attachment 216933
Click to expand...

I agree on the cheesy side...as far as I can tell, those are the same terminals that Delco is using on the OEM replacements, except they are using thinner cable. A bit of a divergence, but I prefer side terminal for everything except jumping and tapping off the battery. I'm far less likely to jump the terminals with metal (and for some reason I always seem to be screwing around underhood with conductive materials lol) and with the ORIGINAL style cable ends, they were almost completely sealed from corrosion, not to mention you can't lose the screw since it's captured. I've never had a problem with side terminal corrosion like I see even on more modern vehicles that still use top post. heck, my battery tray rotted out with no terminal corrosion. But I think these later, cheesier side terminals aren't going to be nearly as effective as what came original on the trucks at preventing corrosion, so the only benefit from them is minimizing the likelihood of shorting the terminals.

Wondered about the crimping. Looks like a few companies will make to your spec https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/custom-cables/ I wonder if those side terminals can accommodate two of the cable crimps? Would be nice to go 2AWG for the starter cable and have two 10 or 12GA pigtails.
 
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/battery-terminal-crimper
s-l500.jpg

I have one of these too. If you are making cables out of the vehicle they work great and are lots cheaper. I found this one on ebay for $23.
You just smack it with a hammer to crimp. Works awesome The only time there is an issue is if you are trying to crimp on a terminal in chassis with nothing to pound against.
 
Truckman4life said:
I am not a side post fan, I prefer top post for a better connection that I don't have to worry about stripping out the stupid hole. If you have a side post battery already that works. I don't like the looks of those side post ends. They seem kinda cheesy where they crimp on. I like to just use a regular eye terminal on the end of the cable and install a bolt with a little longer threads and some washers and a nut. Install the nut on the bolt and the washers and then screw the bolt all the way in the side post terminal and then tighten down the nut while holding the bolt with a wrench and use it like a jam nut to hold the cable to the battery. You should be able to get the 90 degree ends like that at any parts store. Parts places that do semi truck parts will also have them. I always crimp and then fill with solder and then put heat shrink over it. Or go with these ones from the same place, they will give you a better connection and just crimp, solder, and heat shrink them and they will be the best.
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/unisex-side-post-battery-terminals/
View attachment 216933
Click to expand...

I am with you on the opinion of side post battery terminals. When I was young I worked for Sears automotive changing oil, busting tires, and installing batteries. The side terminal battery was just coming out, and I cannot tell you how many of those I saw built up corrosion in the bolt threads and corroded solid. I could not get them off without destroying the battery cable. I change all of my side post vehicles to top post. When it comes to the 90 degree angle the battery cable on the starter solenoid terminal needs, I have just bent the straight terminal to 90 degree so it would clearance the starter and block properly.
 
Last edited:
If you do the bolt and jam nut trick on the side terminal battery, you need to make one slight correction to Truckman4life's suggestion After you screw the bolt all the way down finger tight, back it off a half turn or more.
Do Not tighten the jam nut with the bolt bottomed out.
Even with you holding the bolt as you tighten the jam nut, all it take is about a 1/4 turn or less of the bolt to push the back side of the terminal out into the acid.
Usually the acid will not leak out for a long while. Instead it will seep around the bolt corroding it, getting between the wire terminal and the battery terminal, causing intermittent cranking problems.
You go out in the morning, truck will not start.
Jump it off, cranks right away, hooking up the jumper cables wiggles the bolt enough for it to make contact. Truck works fine for a day or so, then you have to jump it off again.
I have chased that problem for several days on two different trucks over the years, both times the bolt had broken out the back side of the battery terminal.
 
I feel like battery corrosion is so easy to avoid. All it takes is a trip to the DIY carwash or a pressure washer a few times a year. And side posts are the "upgrade" that fixed a problem that never existed in the first place. I feel like GM has used them for clearance issues more than anything else.
 
Truckman4life said:
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/battery-terminal-crimper
s-l500.jpg

I have one of these too. If you are making cables out of the vehicle they work great and are lots cheaper. I found this one on ebay for $23.
You just smack it with a hammer to crimp. Works awesome The only time there is an issue is if you are trying to crimp on a terminal in chassis with nothing to pound against.
Click to expand...
I use that too. I figured out if you try to use a wood bench it doesn't crimp well; concrete floor works the best. Then I figured out the shop press works even better to get a good crimp. I finish off the job with extra-thick, moisture-seal, heat-shrink tubing.
 
Please don't do side post. If you have side post batteries now, you can run top post adapters until you replace the battery.

Making your own is so much easier on top post.

I have a hydrolic setup from eBay, 60ton rating or something. Works well for crimps
 
nutt7 said:
My battery has both top and side posts. If you go top post, or side to top post adapters, consider these terminals, or ones like them. Super versatile and easy.
Click to expand...
Exactly how i run mine. Nice having the option for either post if you need them
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom