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MAN DOWN! Colorado Springs chipped flexplate-168 teeth, 4 broke! need some help 80904

cp3

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COS - Colorado Springs, CO
I need help replacing the Flexplate on my 83 K5 Chevy Blazer,
make an offer for the labor costs! PAID CASH on the spot
168 teeth, 4 are chipped

Thanks
Charles, seven1nine - 3 one zero - 3 eight 1 7

5Id5L25Jd3Lb3Mc3J4c4d4ec2b89540ba1e50.jpg
 
Take driveshafts off, chock wheels first, take the inspection cover off, three bolts are connecting the torque converter to the flexplate, you may need help to spin the motor by hand to access them. Remove the 6 tranny bolts and take the crossmember loose, use a good jack to hold the tranny, slide it back enough to get to the flexplate bolts, if by yourself maybe use ratchet straps to help support the tranny and tcase. You will have to take the tranny loose any way you do it. Those flexplate bolts also have a torque spec when putting them back on. I havnt done one in a long time but 64ish lbs seems to come to mind but look that up. No need to take the tranny all the way out or take the motor up. Edit: my bad i didnt see you meant as in someone coming over to do it.
 
But you still have 165 teeth left, how many do you really need?

God this place kicks ass. Glad someone can help you out!
 
My old k5 had a few broken teeth. I kept a 5/8s socket and long ratchet spun the crank to move to good teeth. Hit the key and start her up. It was like that for a year.:haha:
 
My old k5 had a few broken teeth. I kept a 5/8s socket and long ratchet spun the crank to move to good teeth. Hit the key and start her up. It was like that for a year.:haha:

Exactly what i was thinking i'd be doing if i was on the road somewhere....
 
My old k5 had a few broken teeth. I kept a 5/8s socket and long ratchet spun the crank to move to good teeth. Hit the key and start her up. It was like that for a year.:haha:

Buddy had one do that, he just kept the inspection cover off and had to get under it to start all the time and rotate the flexplate :thumb:
 
My wagoneer had a broken tooth on the flexplate. I'd just get out and push on the thing with it in park and it would move it enough to get the teeth to engage:D
 
His Blazer sounded horrendous about a week ago when he started it but at least he has some decent axles in there now :waytogo:
 
Buddy had one do that, he just kept the inspection cover off and had to get under it to start all the time and rotate the flexplate :thumb:

This happened to.me once when I was in line to race for a main event. I was back a few trucks and went to start it up after I was all buckled and suited up. Eventually got it started and made the race. Thats why I leave my covers off on my old race truck
 
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This is the f-kin reason... outside STARTER MOUNT is limp as obama's sissy wrist!
starter has no back brace to engine block (ordered the starter brace lastnight) and nose cone is twisting because of this catastrophy.
Don know what th hell to do....?
 
Good picture. Wow, that's not good tho.

There are a few options before we Deicide to scrap the block.
In the past I've dealt with this issue and had some success and also no luck.

Here are options.
We can try and put a stud in that side of the exhaust won't interfere.
I've had hood luck going to a newer style modern starter, which is much lighter and doesn't stress the bolts/block as bad.

Will just have to see
 
I found this online....

"Install a phosphor bronze bolt in what's left of the hole. Clean the casting of all paint, oil, and residue.

StarterPad.jpg


Preheat the area surrounding the broken ear (brush the area after heating to give it a final cleaning). Weld the area surrounding the bolt with high nickel filler rod. Allow it to cool without quenching, keeping it warm with a torch for a a while to prevent embrittlement. Once cooled, shot pein the area and remove the bronze bolt.
StarterPadRepaired.jpg


Scrape the mounting pad flat, tap the thread clean and go back to assembly.
StarterPadScraping.jpg


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Can this be done without pulling engine?
 

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