What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Manny's 83 K10 (INDEX)(56K) Manny answers his critics and FALSE ACCUSATIONS

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hey Manny I found those stone shields and bushings in the garage as I was cleaning things out to make room for my welder. I also found a set of spindle bearings still in the plastic.

Do you still need them:haha:.

Ira
 
My god man Channel Locks to remove a fuel line fitting:eek1:. Manny you should have kicked his ass for that atleast dont post the picture of it:D. The right tool for the job.:shame:

Ira
 
Damn...why bother with those damn holleys? Grab an Edelbrock performer Q-jet. 850cfm. Or just a regular Edelbrock Performer. No need to be fookin with shiit that much.
 
KidJethro said:
Damn...why bother with those damn holleys? Grab an Edelbrock performer Q-jet. 850cfm. Or just a regular Edelbrock Performer. No need to be fookin with shiit that much.
Click to expand...
I agree here...use the Edelbrock Q-Jet. I've got one on my K30 and love it. I've ran Holleys before and hate them.
 
I've got an Edelbrock Q-jet on my rig too, it is definately the way to go for a street/ DD rig. Especially if you see any off-camber off road stuff. The smaller primaries give you better fuel mileage, and allow you to only get into the larger secondaries if you really need too. Those second series of Plug readings still looks a little fat, but it's better to be a little rich than lean. Have you considered getting a Wide-Band 02 to tune with?
 
Everyone around here complains about Holley carbs. I seem to be the only one around here who actually loves my Holley. Everyone must understand that it takes time and knowledge to tune a Holley correctly. Holley carbs are great because of the power they make and the nearly unlimited amount of tuneability in them.

Anyone that is having problems with Holleys needs to be sure they are running the right Holley for your application first off. Manny is a perfect example... :D ;)
 
My first post to your rebuild manny - wow!! Good work man!

Although I'm not much into your engine (I'm a diesel guy mostly), the D60 write up is next to nothing. Should mentioned side by side with the D60 bible on pirate. :bow:
Keep on the good work!

Just my 2 cents on two things:

Looking at your spindle install and the little grease job you did there:wink1:, reminds me of my spindle bearing greasing tool (fabricated years ago by a good friend). This d*mn little bearing is hard to reach and the first that gets dirty from the outside. The tool is a plastic cylinder closed on one side with only a grease jerk in it. Open on the other with a smaller sleeve inside and with a few threads to screw it on the spindle.
Sorry for the bad explanation, not to easy for me in a foreign language.

Maybe a few pics will say more than 1000 words:

With a d cell (tool is right ;))
http://coloradok5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40168&stc=1&d=1171222511


The back with the grease jerk
http://coloradok5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40169&stc=1&d=1171222511


Here you can see the front - only 3 or 4 threads are necessary to put it hand tight onto the spindle
http://coloradok5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40170&stc=1&d=1171222511


Another shot of the inside, there's an o-ring between the threads and the inner part (hard to see).
http://coloradok5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40171&stc=1&d=1171222511


Edit: Sorry, can't find out how to post text between pics :confused:, so the above text referrs to the 4 pics on the end.

All you have to do now is dismount your locking hubs, attach the tool to the spindle and pump it with your grease gun. From time to time look at the inside of the knuckle. If the bearing is properly greased, the stuff will be seen around the dust shield (about 20 pumps with the gun).

I see that you did grease your spindle bearing very well, but after a little mudding this may help pressing debris and water out . . .


The other thing:
When installing your locking hubs, DO NOT use grease (although you love to play with it lol). I made that mistake for years an was wondering why my hubs failed. With the new warn premiums the installation says that the hubs were oiled from the factory and that should be enough.
If you're afraid of water harming the insides, than maybe some o-rings for the torx screws and a thicker o-ring for the cap may help.
Personally I would not use any sealant on the hubs. I open them a lot (bearings, greasing, rotor etc.) so sealing and cleaning it each time would be a pain.

Again keep on the good job Manny!!

About when will you doing your first mud pit with the D60/14b?

Walter
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Chevy305 said:
Everyone around here complains about Holley carbs. I seem to be the only one around here who actually loves my Holley. Everyone must understand that it takes time and knowledge to tune a Holley correctly. Holley carbs are great because of the power they make and the nearly unlimited amount of tuneability in them.

Anyone that is having problems with Holleys needs to be sure they are running the right Holley for your application first off. :D ;)
Click to expand...

I pretty much agree with that.....except for extreme angles. Holleys are very tuneable.
 
MuddinManny,

Tip for your D60, the lower cap has a zerk fitting on it. Get yourself a large nut and weld it to the lower cap around the fitting. Provides a little protection for the zerk on obstacles. Cheap, easy and effective. I think I used a 1" course nut on mine.
 
Chevy305 said:
Everyone around here complains about Holley carbs. I seem to be the only one around here who actually loves my Holley. Everyone must understand that it takes time and knowledge to tune a Holley correctly. Holley carbs are great because of the power they make and the nearly unlimited amount of tuneability in them.

Anyone that is having problems with Holleys needs to be sure they are running the right Holley for your application first off. Manny is a perfect example... :D ;)
Click to expand...


X3 I won't run anything but a holley on a performance engine. Edelbrock/Carter makes a great street carb, no arguments there. But you just can't beat a Holley for tunability and all out performance. Most of the complaints I see are either the wrong carb for the application or getting trash in the carb from lack of a proper filter. Both of which can be easily solved. I have ran the same Holley 850 on my BBC since 89 (in the garage since 00). Had one problem, and it was a bad pump diaphram.
 
i really like mine on my stock 350. its a 650 and its never given me trouble. except that little fire.....
 
MuddinManny said:
"Chasing" the threads:

DSC01117.jpg
Click to expand...
Uh-oh... noob mistake!!! Manny, those are Stover nuts, aka metal interference-locking nuts. They are supposed to start going on tight once the interference part on the tarered side starts engaging the threads on the studs. By chasing them with a tap you have cut away the interference threads, turning them a standard nut :doah:. FWIW, the spindle stud nuts on all 10b/D44's I have seen have been regular nuts, not lock nuts. Since that was the case, I used loctite on mine. I don't suppose you loctited yours? If not, you might want to do so, or better yet go get some new nuts...
 
MaxPF said:
Uh-oh... noob mistake!!! Manny, those are Stover nuts, aka metal interference-locking nuts. They are supposed to start going on tight once the interference part on the tarered side starts engaging the threads on the studs. By chasing them with a tap you have cut away the interference threads, turning them a standard nut :doah:. FWIW, the spindle stud nuts on all 10b/D44's I have seen have been regular nuts, not lock nuts. Since that was the case, I used loctite on mine. I don't suppose you loctited yours? If not, you might want to do so, or better yet go get some new nuts...
Click to expand...

I noticed that too, but wasn't sure if that was a bad idea or not...

Well kinda sucks if you want to fix that now that the whole thing is nearly back together... :o
 
You know Manny, if it were me, I would probably go back and loc-tite them. I'd probably curse a few times doing it (I was a sailor as you so aptly noted), but I think, better safe than sorry. I tend to use loctite on any major nuts/bolts that aren't self locking, unless the application specifically prohibits it.
 
Is there a reason you didn't paint the calipers or the ends of the rotor? I plan to do that to mine to keep them from rusting / looking like crap. :dunno:

Otherwise, looks great. Don't know to chime in on the spindle nut thing but your axle looks great. As soon as my motor is running and the truck moving under her own power, I'll be swapping in my 1 ton gear too. Keep up the excellent work. If nothing else, we can all live vicariously through you. :D:D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom