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Manual to Electric Tailgate Window

You just need a single pull double throw momentary switch, power in the middle, out on both legs, One powers it up, one powers it down.

Just make sure it's a momentary switch so you dont fry the motor...

Could even put it on a relay so it's only switchable with the ignition on.

It pulls osm ejuice too, so run good wire
 
Metrodps posted a TSB on how to fix rear window troubles. I can't find it can only go 5 pages back. I know he has a parts diagram I seen it posted here to. I think it was like the first part of febuary.
 
simple solution.. pu gate and a softtop! :wink1:

If I hadn't gone that route, I'd have converted my electric over to manual.. f*ck electric... K.I.S.S...... :haha:
 
No. open your tailgate, take the inner panel off, roll "up" the window (awkward) and undo the bolts. my "friend" pulled the old handle right off the back of my jimmy goofing around:mad: made him buy me a new one. seems to me, that all the older gm stuff is all very logically laid out. parts swap easily, etc. now im rambling.

Does the handle use bolts? When I bought my truck the handle was laying in the floor of the bed. I took off the back panel and it looked like the window crank stuff was in the way. I also need to replace that stuff because I think its all stripped anyway. You have to pull it up half way with your hands to roll it up.
 
i cant recall if it uses bolts or machine screws... now that you mention it, the gear was in the way, thats a little hassle to get out of the way, just be patient and easy on it.

i want to convert mine to an electric setup because the handle i got off the 78 donor rig has a different angle on the base and now i have a smiley face scratched in the paint.:doah:

i know that some subs of the mid to late 80's had defrost on them, they werent tinted and looked really funny. i dont see why blazers wouldnt.
 
I have only seen subs with barn door type windows that have defrosters. With a Blazer type tailgate and window, there would be no way to keep the wiring to the defroster from getting destroyed when you roll the window up and down.
 
simple solution.. pu gate and a softtop! :wink1:

If I hadn't gone that route, I'd have converted my electric over to manual.. f*ck electric... K.I.S.S...... :haha:

how did you make the conversion.. i need to convert my electric tailgate to manual... what do i need and can i find any instructions to do so?

thanks
 
I didn't.. I went pu gate and softtop..

you want to convert manual to electric?
 
The easiest way to do it is to pick up a manual gate, as they are far more common than the electric gate.

To do it, you would need, crank handle, lock cylinder, regulator (may or may not be req'd), and I think that is it. LMC shows all the parts for both manual and electric gates, so that would be a good source to see what is different. The regulator may be the same, but you would need to remove the trans, motor, cable, handle, and lock cylinder. You would also want to make sure you remove the wire all the way to the fuse box to prevent shorts.
 
I've done this manual to electric conversion when I restored my 80 blazer, it was a super easy conversion, I gathered the parts and bolted it in pretty much. Other than having to build a set of window tracks from some old vent window assemblys since I'm in a major rust belt and not a single track has ever survived. That would have been nessesary whether I did the power or manual gate. But the extra effort to power it was not worth it, the motor is horribly underpowered to lift 20 pounds or so of glass, and gave me constant trouble, and it was rediculously slow, then finally the drive cable ends started falling off the cable, I gave up, took the access panel off and used a drill to raise and lower the glass untill my new manual crank for the window arrived. No problems since then, it only takes 5 seconds, probably less to open or close the rear glass, every time without failing. If you do convert your truck, you'll end up with a manual crank back on it, garaunteed.
 
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