CK5
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MaxPF can't decide for himself, so he needs help!

What should MaxPF do:


  • Total voters
    19
Oh, you can bet i have hidden motives for calling Cummins on a poll you posted :eek1: I'll start my own thread here pretty quick, and we can compare notes (read I'll steal your ideas :doah::haha:) Looking forward to it!!

Did you ever read that thread with the Cummins/Burb conversion by a guy from Norway or wherever it was? Crazy detail . . . . .

I doubt you will steal my drivetrain ideas, unless you plan on running a 4 speed :eek1: I'm running an SM465 behind the Cummins. What is interesting is how I am mating it to the Cummins, and how it will live behind 800lb-ft of torque without breaking the input shaft (the guts are easily as strong as an NV4500 - probably stronger, so no worries there), and the custom 13" clutch I had South Bend build for me :D. Then there's the diff gearing so I am only turning 1900RPM on the highway :wink1:

OK, I will let a bit of detail out of the bag. Everyone here knows that the SM465 has a 1-1/8" 10 spline input shaft, right? Well, a Cummins will twist that right off. So, I'm replacing it with something a bit more substantial...

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Ah theres the beef. :haha:



But why did you choose the beige? thats such an ugly color. :doah: cummins has better choices if you wanted to stay stock looking.
 
Ah theres the beef. :haha:



But why did you choose the beige? thats such an ugly color. :doah: cummins has better choices if you wanted to stay stock looking.

I kinda like the beige. Besides, if the paint and primer ever flakes off of the original paint it won't be noticeable :p:
 
OK I am comming a little late but I think I can still supply some good input:
I had K5 with a 5.9l TD perkins, which is a comparable engine and I can give you my experience:
I had 1/2 ton axles under it and they worked fine with full lockers and 35: tires.
I did rocks, sand, mud snow and lot of pavement, I towed with it too.
Springs were HD rancho 4" lift springs but gave me a smooth 2.5" lift.
It did disintegrate my frame, all the rivets on the crossmembers ended up failing then I had cracks start all over the engine bay, after running this setup for 6 years I parted it and started studying the problems and came up with solutions:
The shop that did the transplant had taken off the original crossmember/ engine mount and notched the front crossmember (the one that holds the brake PV) for clearing the balancer.
I would move the engine back 3-4" to clear that one and make a better crossmember to clear the pan, the frames were twisting bad under the torque of the engine, and moving the engine bacl would also put the weight closer to the middle of the truck.
You would have to either put a body lift or notch the firewall to make that happen.
I have the original 1 1/8" input on my SM465 and never had any problems with it or the OEM clutch, although my engine was stock 170 HP and 410 lb tq.
I do have the 1.5" input shaft from a C60 SM465 and I will be using it on my second SM465 in the double SM465 doubler.
:)
You do need some kind of overdrive or gear splitter for driveability if you plan on driving the K5 to trails, if you plan on trailering it then it will be fine.
If I remember anything else I will chime in.
By the way the weight on the front was great for hill climbs, I did the nastiest hill climbs without fear, traction was always good up to 100% slopes.:bow:

I just felt it was too much engine for my K5, I will be putting it in a 1 ton truck or my suburban 3/4 ton with some reinforcement on the frame.
 
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