well, then perhaps not... maybe i'm not sure what you're referring to then. anyway, those pistons look just like mine did.
CK5
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MaxPF's 6.2 build
- Thread starter MaxPF
- Start date
smalltruckbigcid
1/2 ton status
It also depends on the alloy used to make the pistons. I forget the numbers something like 2680 and 4120 comes to mind. One is much harder than the other. One question about why you went to summit for parts, I've had better luck with northern auto for diesel parts. www.northernautoparts.com
I checked and they use federal mogul pistons in their kits....
George
I checked and they use federal mogul pistons in their kits....
George
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
Which pistons, Colby? The one I took pics of, or the last pic I posted? The first three are pics of the Sealed Power unit, while the last is a Silvolite. If you look at the top ring land in the SP (the piston is upside down in the pic) there is just a plain ring groove cut into the aluminum casting. If you look at the top ring land on the bottom pic (the Silvolite) you can see the steel insert cast into the piston that the top ring rides in. The stock pistons that came out of my motor (I don't remember if they were Bohn or Zollner) also had the armored top ring groove. I saw a build in diesel power magazine where they used the SP pistons on a 6.2 turbo motor, but I was unable to find out how well the motor worked...
The reason I went to Summit was because the piston was fairly inexpensive, and if I didn't like it I could send it back and get a refund
The reason I went to Summit was because the piston was fairly inexpensive, and if I didn't like it I could send it back and get a refund
If Summit is gonna be that 'friendly' I'd probably send em back and go with the Silvolite pistons.
BTW, nice to see a detailed 'build' on a 6.2. Keep the pics, spec's, observations etc coming!! I know i'll have to do this one day to one of my 6.2's.
Rene
BTW, nice to see a detailed 'build' on a 6.2. Keep the pics, spec's, observations etc coming!! I know i'll have to do this one day to one of my 6.2's.
Rene
mine was like the style you said has a flaw. well, i've got 15k on my rebuild so far w/ no problems... ofcourse i'm not intending to run much boost if i end up w/ a turbo someday tho.
colbystephens said:
Man you drive a lot.
You didn't finish the build too long ago.
i don't drive that much, but i do drive alot. i finished the built a year ago this month... i think it was april. anyway, i drove to arizona in december - that's 3k miles round trip plus all the extra driving i did while there, including a trip to the grand canyon from phoenix. i do lots of little trips, but don't do a ton of daily driving. 
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
I scored big-time
Well, I solved my piston problem:
Well, I solved my piston problem:
Nice build. I built my 6.2 with a turbo and low compression pistons from the Diesel Depot. They also ceramic coated them. It has awesome power compared to its former self. Two things I would recommend: put pipe plugs in the front oil plugs above the cam. One of mine came out and caused some trouble, but nothing to bad. Also make sure you put your injection lines on correctly. I was in a hurry and switched the #7 and #5 lines. I am now replacing two pistons
. I live in Mesa too so maybe when we get our trucks running we could meet up. I thought I was the only one crazy enough to build a low compression turbo 6.2 in Mesa.
Also about grinding the crank, the Diesel Depot has been doing it for years and it is safe to do down to .020" as long as the round fillets are left alone. Mine will also never tow much so I have noting to worry about. Mine was ground .010". Also some senior members on thedieselpage.com are not sure if the 6.2 cranks actually came with nitride coatings. The nitride is only there for longer bearing journal life as it hardens it. It does nothing from keeping the crank from snapping. Broken cranks are due to cracked blocks and bad balancers.
. I live in Mesa too so maybe when we get our trucks running we could meet up. I thought I was the only one crazy enough to build a low compression turbo 6.2 in Mesa.Also about grinding the crank, the Diesel Depot has been doing it for years and it is safe to do down to .020" as long as the round fillets are left alone. Mine will also never tow much so I have noting to worry about. Mine was ground .010". Also some senior members on thedieselpage.com are not sure if the 6.2 cranks actually came with nitride coatings. The nitride is only there for longer bearing journal life as it hardens it. It does nothing from keeping the crank from snapping. Broken cranks are due to cracked blocks and bad balancers.
Here are some pictures of what I have done.
More pics here http://s153.photobucket.com/albums/s205/kkarlson_photo
More pics here http://s153.photobucket.com/albums/s205/kkarlson_photo
mudman83 said:Nice build. I built my 6.2 with a turbo and low compression pistons from the Diesel Depot. They also ceramic coated them. It has awesome power compared to its former self. Two things I would recommend: put pipe plugs in the front oil plugs above the cam. One of mine came out and caused some trouble, but nothing to bad. Also make sure you put your injection lines on correctly. I was in a hurry and switched the #7 and #5 lines. I am now replacing two pistons
Also about grinding the crank, the Diesel Depot has been doing it for years and it is safe to do down to .020" as long as the round fillets are left alone. Mine will also never tow much so I have noting to worry about. Mine was ground .010". Also some senior members on thedieselpage.com are not sure if the 6.2 cranks actually came with nitride coatings. The nitride is only there for longer bearing journal life as it hardens it. It does nothing from keeping the crank from snapping. Broken cranks are due to cracked blocks and bad balancers.
A long time ago I was told you don't grind a 6.2 l crank because it's nitrided.
Well I found out that a machine shop here in sacramento CA grinds and nitrides cranks, not just for the 6.2 but also for BBC hi power engines.
Yes the nitriding doesn't prevent from cracking, but from wear.
I have plans for my engine rebuild, but since I have a 599 block, I am considering bumping it up to 6.5 and low compression pistons, with the Banks, I should have a decent motor.
mudman - that's simply beatiful... :tear:
No braille on that block...
Rene
Rene
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
That's a sweet build, Mudman 
.
The nitriding DOES help prevent crank breakage. It introduces residual compressive stress in the metal which helps reduce the probability of crack formation. This is also what pressure rolling the fillets does, and shotpeening, except that these are both mechanical methods of introducing compressive stress whereas nitriding does it chemically. My concern with reusing my crank isn't with the regrinding, it is with reusing a crank that has already gone 227k. There seems to be good indications that the fatigue life of these cranks are substantailly shorter than the steel cranks that most manufacturers use, and beyond 250-300k you are on borrowed time. Is it true? I dunno... Maybe I wil have it ground and renitrided. There are NO new 6.2 (two piece seal) cranks available anywhere. That means the only option is to modify a 6.5 one-piece seal crank to fit the 2 piece seal block. It looks doable, but I actually need a 6.5 crank in front of me to make measurements and verify that it can be done. If it can I will probably go that route. If not... looks like regrind and pray
. The nitriding DOES help prevent crank breakage. It introduces residual compressive stress in the metal which helps reduce the probability of crack formation. This is also what pressure rolling the fillets does, and shotpeening, except that these are both mechanical methods of introducing compressive stress whereas nitriding does it chemically. My concern with reusing my crank isn't with the regrinding, it is with reusing a crank that has already gone 227k. There seems to be good indications that the fatigue life of these cranks are substantailly shorter than the steel cranks that most manufacturers use, and beyond 250-300k you are on borrowed time. Is it true? I dunno... Maybe I wil have it ground and renitrided. There are NO new 6.2 (two piece seal) cranks available anywhere. That means the only option is to modify a 6.5 one-piece seal crank to fit the 2 piece seal block. It looks doable, but I actually need a 6.5 crank in front of me to make measurements and verify that it can be done. If it can I will probably go that route. If not... looks like regrind and pray
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
tRustyK5 said:No braille on that block...
Rene
I like my braille, thank you mery much
i don't remember where i saw it, but i found aftermarket cranks when i was looking into rebuilding.
It is always better to be safe than sorry with the crank, so it is better off to get a new one if funds allow. I guess I'll see how mine does...
Man, with splayed mains, lower compression and a new crank you could get awesome power out of that and still be reliable. I can't wait to see it done!
Man, with splayed mains, lower compression and a new crank you could get awesome power out of that and still be reliable. I can't wait to see it done!
MaxPF said:I like my braille, thank you mery much
I do too...I just can't figure out it's purpose. I do know mine didn't have any which was why the braille on your block caught my eye.
Anyways, I don't mean to take this off topic. Please carry on.
Rene
So how does the whole splayed main thing work? Is there a kit plus machining or what?
Rene
Rene
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
You buy the caps, and machine the block registers to fit them. Then you drill and tap the new angled outer bolt holes. The idea is that the outer holes are in the strongest area of the block casting. I have done more research and have decided that a thick heavy girdle will accomplish the same thing for less money and without having to have the block align-bored. I am now leaning in that direction.tRustyK5 said:
