you keeping the jimmy now?
CK5
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MaxPF's 6.2 build
- Thread starter MaxPF
- Start date
tRustyK5 said:
I have a 3/4 ton sub with the ATS turbo on a 6.2 and 700r4, the tranny is still fine, the engine on the other hand is not working at the moment.
700r4 are not that bad, and the turbo will only help with the highway acceleration.
True enough on the 700R-4 (I just hate auto's)
As for acceleration the little C1500 has plenty of scoot...it weighs less than 3800 lbs empty. It has no trouble at all merging onto the highway with ease and will hit 80 mph with lots left. I've driven stock pick-ups with 350's that were no faster than this is...
So, do i need a turbo for this truck? Not really.
Colby...probably a good chance I'll be keeping the K5 now. I won't be doing anything to it for at least the next 4 months though, and then I'll prolly swap out the alcan's and swap in some 4" lift BDS springs instead. Stiffer, more stable and lower CoG. Likely get rid of the 39.5" TSL's and go with some 38.5" Michellin Radials.
Rene
As for acceleration the little C1500 has plenty of scoot...it weighs less than 3800 lbs empty. It has no trouble at all merging onto the highway with ease and will hit 80 mph with lots left. I've driven stock pick-ups with 350's that were no faster than this is...
So, do i need a turbo for this truck? Not really.
Colby...probably a good chance I'll be keeping the K5 now. I won't be doing anything to it for at least the next 4 months though, and then I'll prolly swap out the alcan's and swap in some 4" lift BDS springs instead. Stiffer, more stable and lower CoG. Likely get rid of the 39.5" TSL's and go with some 38.5" Michellin Radials.
Rene
imiceman44 said:I have a 3/4 ton sub with the ATS turbo on a 6.2 and 700r4, the tranny is still fine, the engine on the other hand is not working at the moment.
700r4 are not that bad, and the turbo will only help with the highway acceleration.
How is the turbo? The only thing I need for my ATS set-up is either my turbo rebuilt or another turbo...
Rene
tRustyK5 said:How is the turbo? The only thing I need for my ATS set-up is either my turbo rebuilt or another turbo...
Rene
Too bad my sub is sold complete to UGLYTRUCK
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
Update
Well, I picked everything up from the machine shop today. The block is crack free with only .002" cylinder wall taper. Not bad for 227k. I will be installing the splayed mains and deburring the block before returning it to the shop along with the new .030" over pistons to be bored and honed and line-honed. I will also grind the flashing off the rod beams and fit them with new ARP rod bolts before I send them back to the shop to be resized and shotpeened. Once I get that done and get the new crank I can assemble the short block.
The heads have the usual shallow hairline cracks between the valves on several cylinders. They don't penetrate to the water jaket, and I will do the approved repair for this area to ensure they don't. If you look at the exterior of the heads below the glow plugs there are some small plugs. This is where they drilled a water passage between the valves. The repair consists of removing these plugs and then reaming the passage to accept a steel valve guide insert. This basically sleeves the passage and eliminates the possibility of leakage and crack growth, Heads repaired this way have run hundreds of thousands of miles without issue. Often they will run for the life of the motor without doing the repair, but I feel better taking care of it while everything is apart. Then I will have new seats installed and the valves ground. New springs, keepers, and precups will finish off the heads.
I have been thinking about it and I am compemplating dropping the compression to around 19.5:1 by taking .020 off of the piston crown. I need to do more research to determine if that is what I really want to do though...
Well, I picked everything up from the machine shop today. The block is crack free with only .002" cylinder wall taper. Not bad for 227k. I will be installing the splayed mains and deburring the block before returning it to the shop along with the new .030" over pistons to be bored and honed and line-honed. I will also grind the flashing off the rod beams and fit them with new ARP rod bolts before I send them back to the shop to be resized and shotpeened. Once I get that done and get the new crank I can assemble the short block.
The heads have the usual shallow hairline cracks between the valves on several cylinders. They don't penetrate to the water jaket, and I will do the approved repair for this area to ensure they don't. If you look at the exterior of the heads below the glow plugs there are some small plugs. This is where they drilled a water passage between the valves. The repair consists of removing these plugs and then reaming the passage to accept a steel valve guide insert. This basically sleeves the passage and eliminates the possibility of leakage and crack growth, Heads repaired this way have run hundreds of thousands of miles without issue. Often they will run for the life of the motor without doing the repair, but I feel better taking care of it while everything is apart. Then I will have new seats installed and the valves ground. New springs, keepers, and precups will finish off the heads.
I have been thinking about it and I am compemplating dropping the compression to around 19.5:1 by taking .020 off of the piston crown. I need to do more research to determine if that is what I really want to do though...
good! so i still got a chance of hitting a trail w/ you sometime.tRustyK5 said:
MaxPF said:Well, I picked everything up from the machine shop today. The block is crack free with only .002" cylinder wall taper. Not bad for 227k. I will be installing the splayed mains and deburring the block before returning it to the shop along with the new .030" over pistons to be bored and honed and line-honed. I will also grind the flashing off the rod beams and fit them with new ARP rod bolts before I send them back to the shop to be resized and shotpeened. Once I get that done and get the new crank I can assemble the short block.
The heads have the usual shallow hairline cracks between the valves on several cylinders. They don't penetrate to the water jaket, and I will do the approved repair for this area to ensure they don't. If you look at the exterior of the heads below the glow plugs there are some small plugs. This is where they drilled a water passage between the valves. The repair consists of removing these plugs and then reaming the passage to accept a steel valve guide insert. This basically sleeves the passage and eliminates the possibility of leakage and crack growth, Heads repaired this way have run hundreds of thousands of miles without issue. Often they will run for the life of the motor without doing the repair, but I feel better taking care of it while everything is apart. Then I will have new seats installed and the valves ground. New springs, keepers, and precups will finish off the heads.
I have been thinking about it and I am compemplating dropping the compression to around 19.5:1 by taking .020 off of the piston crown. I need to do more research to determine if that is what I really want to do though...
you're getting the diesel bug... been there.... still there... you'll never leave.
it's bliss!
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
colbystephens said:
you're getting the diesel bug... been there.... still there... you'll never leave.
it's bliss!
Hi, My name's MaxPF, and I'm a dieselholic
sounds like you got bit hard... 
Can't wait to see pic's of the build.
Rene
Can't wait to see pic's of the build.
Rene
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
tRustyK5 said:sounds like you got bit hard...
Can't wait to see pic's of the build.
Rene
Well, here's the freshly cleaned block:
The only wrinkle was that the drain plugs in the bottom of the coolant jackets were absolutely siezed in place. All efforts to ectract them failed, so in the end I was forced to drill em out:
I drilled them out to 7/16", and I will clean the threads out with a 1/4"NPT tap, after I buy a new one. The tap I have now has seen hetter days
. Anyway, just a minor problem, easily fixed. Otherwise the block is in excellent shape and is ready to get spme splayed caps installed. I will also grind off the casting flash on the block to get rid of the ugly sharp edges.Engine builds are fun
I like the 'braille' in the lifter galley...
Rene
Rene
oh man... clean engines are beautiful! i'm with rene - what's up with the braille? i've never heard of it called a lifter gallery... good title.
i'm with rene - what's up with the braille? i've never heard of it called a lifter gallery... good title.
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
colbystephens said:oh man... clean engines are beautiful!
I've always heard it called a lifter valley. I don't know what the braille is for. All GM 6.2's and 6.5's have it, with the last 3 digits of the casting number as part of it. The new AMG blocks have the braille, but with no braille casting number. Maybe they just thought it looked cool?
i don't have that much braille on mine.
I don't think mine has any braille...I'm fairly sure I would have remembered that when I had the intake off for port matching.
Rene
Rene
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
Hmm. Every pic I have ever seen of a 6.2 block had the braille on it... I take it back, I saw a pic of an 82 with no braille. Maybe it's just the later blocks..? 
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
Sealed Power pistons are junk
Last week I ordered one Sealed Power 6.2 piston from Summit to inspect it for myself. A guy on the Diesel Place forum said it was beefy and showed pics. Well, it IS beefy, but it has a serious flaw. Here's a pic:
Looks pretty robust. Here's a pic of the crown:
Here's a side view. See if you can spot the problem:
See the problem? There is no armored ring in the top groove. Here's a pic of a piston with an armored groove:
That steel insert keeps the top compression ring from beating the **** out of the ring land. It's pretty much a necessity on a diesel piston. I'm a bit dismayed that Federal-Mogul decided not to include it, since it basically makes the piston worthless for a reliable build...
Last week I ordered one Sealed Power 6.2 piston from Summit to inspect it for myself. A guy on the Diesel Place forum said it was beefy and showed pics. Well, it IS beefy, but it has a serious flaw. Here's a pic:
Looks pretty robust. Here's a pic of the crown:
Here's a side view. See if you can spot the problem:
See the problem? There is no armored ring in the top groove. Here's a pic of a piston with an armored groove:
That steel insert keeps the top compression ring from beating the **** out of the ring land. It's pretty much a necessity on a diesel piston. I'm a bit dismayed that Federal-Mogul decided not to include it, since it basically makes the piston worthless for a reliable build...
the insert came with my ring set.
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
colbystephens said:
Are you sure? The insert is cast into the stock pistons - it isn't something you add.
