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Might as well call this my crossover parts thread...

My ends are gonna need to be done sooner or later anyways.. and stock ends are not too much less.

Got my box, old greasy chevy steering box, but it's what I need :D Now I need to figure out if I'm gonna do the sector shaft swap or the whole box.
 
Well I spent some money tonight.. about $200 :eek1:

Got ball joints and TRE's coming from Rock Auto.... still the best price going for Spicer Pro-Grades. Fortunately I saw the light before wasting the other set I have on my 10b knuckles, so I only needed balljoints for one side.

Ordered the jam nuts, spindle stud kit, and threaded bungs from Poly Performance..

The only things left are getting the tube for the tie rod and have Sky do the machine work to my knuckle and buy their crossover kit. I'm about halfway into it parts wise now..

What size tube should I be looking for? I know I need 1" ID.. but stout is good. This truck isn't a hard core wheeler..
 
I used 1.25"x120" wall tube, but that is too thin for a rock crawler. Poly Performance recommend at least 1.375"x.188" wall.
.188" x 2 = .376"
1.375" - .376" = 1.001"

1.50" x .25"
.25" x 2 = .50"
1.50" - .50" = 1.000"

Poly Per tube.
 
get your 1''id dom & another that it slides into snuggly and the tube inside tube is really strong, usually if it bends it spings back.
 
blazin_blazer said:
get your 1''id dom & another that it slides into snuggly and the tube inside tube is really strong, usually if it bends it spings back.
Click to expand...
Yeah, check out Blitzkrieg Motorsports. They make one with 1/3 tubes (a tube pressed over the other only 1/3 the length, but one on each end). They say that leaving the open area in the middle third allows the rod to bend, but the rigidity of the outer thirds forces it back into position. I personally just went 1.25"x.120 DOM, though I may sleeve it one day (actually was the plan originally).

Jonathon, your buying a crossover kit? Are you just needing the high-steer components? Ballistic Fab has the sweetest! As far as the rest, swap sector shafts (replace the seals while your at it for $6) and build your own draglink, you obviously know how now.
Good luck.
 
JDNobodi said:
I used 1.25"x120" wall tube, but that is too thin for a rock crawler. Poly Performance recommend at least 1.375"x.188" wall.
.188" x 2 = .376"
1.375" - .376" = 1.001"

1.50" x .25"
.25" x 2 = .50"
1.50" - .50" = 1.000"

Poly Per tube.
Click to expand...

I'm not rock crawling.. bumping around in the hills and daily driving. Think your tie rod is stronger than stock? If not, I think I'll end up with the 1.50x.250...
 
Should be stronger than stock, but my draglink, which is made out of the same martial as my tie-rod (1.25"x.120") has a slight curve in it after hitting the front main cap on my BBC.

Remember, the reason you’re going to the drop tie-rod ends is more clearance. Putting a bigger tube will take that clearance away.
 
JDNobodi said:
Should be stronger than stock, but my draglink, which is made out of the same martial as my tie-rod (1.25"x.120") has a slight curve in it after hitting the front main cap on my BBC.

Remember, the reason you’re going to the drop tie-rod ends is more clearance. Putting a bigger tube will take that clearance away.
Click to expand...

Makes sense.

I'm going to use Sky's kit with a bent drag link so that shouldn't be an issue.

I think I'll give the 1.25"x.125" a shot, this is a light duty rig. I haven't bent the stock one yet :haha:
 
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