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Military Crew Cab Build-Cummins swap.

Any updates?
Just been driving it. Made the 90 mile round trip to work a few times now. I've been busy with other projects and it keeps running. Had a rocker back off and make a little noise, and the quadrajet still isnt done, and I still havent fixed the manifold leak, but it runs.
 
So this truck originally had AC. I want AC back. Is there a way to discern which compressor I will need? I'm not sure if the accessories I have are from the 70's BBC or the 85 6.2 the truck came with. The truck has the V belt/ serp belt setup now. Power steering has a V, the AC takes a serp belt but has to be tensioned manually. There's a mount under the a alternator for something. Does anyone have experience with this setup and its AC components? I'll grab some pictures of what I have and post them in a few. Thanks.

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The 3127 and 3329 is off my 89.. the rest off the 85 truck. Let me know what you need and I will hobble out in the day light and get you pics. The White truck will have all you need. That belt on the power steering is not on right. The left brackets (pass side under alt were for the pollution stuff.


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Looks like I'm missing all of the bracketry. Thanks for the pictures. Might be easier at this point to get a complete serpentine setup from the junkyard and not have to deal with piecing that all together or deal with V belts. Explains why my powersteering reservoir looks so out of place though. Thanks a ton for taking the time to take pictures for me sir.
 
So I'm in the research phase of this and I'd like some opinions. I'm thinking either LS swapping the truck or doing a FI Tech or Sniper setup on the 454. The 454 is a little tired but doesnt run bad and I already have it. With my gearing and the 4 speed I think an LS motor would be happier at highway speeds. I think the costs would be similar, offset by selling the 454 for the LS swap. Is a baffled FI tank needed for both setups, or is there a way around this? Sump or other solution? I've got two other LS powered rides in the driveway, so I'm familiar with the power delivery and drivability. How similar is the aftermarket fuel injection on the older motor as far as every day use? Is the setup really as easy as it seems in the write ups I've read? Any long term reports?
 
It'll be cheaper to fuel inject the current engine.
 
It'll be cheaper to fuel inject the current engine.

Looks like the FI conversions with fuel pumps are around 1500. I think with shopping around and after selling parts I could do an LS swap for about that. Is there a cheaper option for fi?
 
You hafta factor in the big picture...

I'm a couple grandish into my FiTech swap...

But I didn't need exhaust or mounts or harness or separate ECU or paying for a tune or new hoses/belts/tune up parts or a bucket full of new bolts...

You get the picture...

Nothing is 1500 bucks..
 
You hafta factor in the big picture...

I'm a couple grandish into my FiTech swap...

But I didn't need exhaust or mounts or harness or separate ECU or paying for a tune or new hoses/belts/tune up parts or a bucket full of new bolts...

You get the picture...

Nothing is 1500 bucks..
I thought that too, mine cost me 5600$ the only thing that was 1500$ was the motor.. I know they can be had cheaper but the following ancially parts cost me big time, just finding all the accessories and fuel system etc is what added up. Then the cooling and tuning of the motor.. also in a crew cab I would be more inclined to efi the bbc for the sake of torque.. I have both in my yard ls swapped k20 and the l29 in the burb c2500 and I wouldn’t put a Ls in anything heavier than 5500lbs max without stroking it..
 
I thought that too, mine cost me 5600$ the only thing that was 1500$ was the motor.. I know they can be had cheaper but the following ancially parts cost me big time, just finding all the accessories and fuel system etc is what added up. Then the cooling and tuning of the motor.. also in a crew cab I would be more inclined to efi the bbc for the sake of torque.. I have both in my yard ls swapped k20 and the l29 in the burb c2500 and I wouldn’t put a Ls in anything heavier than 5500lbs max without stroking it..


Wow... puts so much into perspective...
I figured get a motor and stuff... throw in and done..

Im prepping elec fans and elec fuel pump now and keep leaning towards 8.1L... but keep thinking LS as well... my truck is not a 3+3 and is 6100lbs
 
Cool truck, keep it a big block.

Mine is a 3+3, has a 350 SBC, and weighs 6,000. I thought these trucks should be heavier, but they just aren't.
 
This is exactly why I asked, thank you guys for the replies. I'm not a fan of the big block's thirst. My SAS rig has a stock iron head early 6.0 and can do 13mpg on the same tires. Granted its 500rpm lower but the big block does 6 to 7 on a good day on the highway. I'm basically trying to talk myself into EFI for the big block for simplicity. I'm still probably 6 months off of starting anything so my mind is far from made up at this point, but I am leaning the LS way.

Justin what additional expense did you run into with the FI tech over the purchase price? I figured there would be a few odds and ends but the kit with the pump looks pretty complete.

Sreidmx why the high price? I bought my SAS truck to swap my K5 at the time for under $1500. Rolled, but complete running and driving. My thinking was after the sale of the big block, parting out the donor truck and doing my own harness I could come in under 2k. The SAS truck is heavier than the crew cab with tools and spares. Even with an automatic it's got a ton more power than the stock 70's big block.

If I'm really this far off on my cost estimate I'm thinking I'll just put a new carb on it and keep saving for a Cummins swap down the road.
 
I purchased the 600 hp kit with timing control and the fuel pump kit.
1200 ish

Also have a MSD dizzy, coil, and wires for when I actually get around to timing control.
450 ish

Had to acquire cable adapter pieces to hook the pedal and trans to the Fitech Throttle linkage, and a different bracket
50 ish

I changed my intake manifold (not required) and I bought used
50

The coolant temp sensor was bunk that came with the kit...
20

Nickled and dimed on all the little things for a couple hundred ish more
 
I bought a used ramjet 502 cheap to use the short block for my chevelle and used the heads, intake and all the EFI stuff on my 468. Got rid of the saddle tanks and got a suburban tank and used an in-line fuel pump. I've got about $2500 in it total.
I've seen used ramjet 502 system for sale sporadically on Craigslist & ebay and for cheap. Just gotta look around.
 
Stick with the cubes (torque) and simplicity of aftermarket throttle body EFI. Sniper or FiTech, you can't really go wrong.

You can check out @mrk5 thread for in tank fuel pump options and he's running the sniper.

I've done 5 FiTech conversions and run it on my 84 K10 BBC with timing control and a in tank (K5 31 gallon) EP381 pump. I wouldn't hesitate to run the system in a DD.
 
Honestly, with your 8" lifted on 37's 3+3 with a SM465, even if you put a 5.3 in this thing, the mpg's are never going to be that great. So I think looking 5.3 for this thing would be worthless (IMO obviously). So really if still wanting LS, then 6.0 should be the real choice, but again looking at MPG's, the 6.0's don't do good on gas at all. Both my brothers have 6.0 trucks (one is a 2000 burb, but that 6.0 has Z06 cam, head work, intake, exhaust, and a tune. the other brother has a bone stock 2004 6.0 3/4 ton truck) both don't get any better than 13 hwy set at cruise...and realistically it's around 11 daily driven.

My point by all that is trying to get more mpg's for what this truck is will be a rabbit chase that you probably won't win. So really, what are the plans for the truck? What are the overall uses you want out of it. Do you just want an extra truck to have around to use? Or do you want to tow with it?

If you really want to go through the whole process of swapping a motor into this truck, I would consider an 8.1. Will bolt into the truck much easier than other LS's, has the low end grunt to push this big truck around really well, and will probably get around 10 mpg's doing it (comparable to 6.0 but lots more power in stock form). However, it's going to add up with all the misc stuff that goes into a motor swap (cooling, fueling, wiring, exhaust, crossmemeber, etc.).

If it were me with this truck, I would just pull the 454 and do a simple rebuild on it, maybe throw a cam at it (and maybe heads if the budget allows) and slap it back in with a carb on it to get it back running. Then save up for FItech or Sniper system and do it all at once. If my crew cab originally came with a 454, that's what I would have done, but mine came with a clapped out TBI350 that had low compression and didn't want to run. And since I wanted to tow with mine, and was going to do a motor swap anyways, I went with 8.1
 
My 2¢.

On the drive to Blazer Bash I got just a shade over 11mpg with the 454 and Holley Sniper. I have 37's, 5.13 gears, and OD. That is pulling 10000ft passes over I70 too, so I think that's a good solid MPG.

I weighed my crew cab while it still had the 350 and it was 7700lbs. That was on a certified Cat scale that guarantee their weights. I was shocked it was over 7000. I was guessing it would be around 6500. I'm going to weigh it again after I put the 4L80e in because it definitely weighs more than the 700r4. Not to mention the weight of the Magnum and NP205. I'm betting the addition of those 2 plus the 454 is going to put me at 8000lbs.

I have a 2008 2500HD company pickup with a 6.0L and the 6spd auto, 6L80 or 6L90 I think. I have mostly a highway commute and the best mileage I could ever baby out of it was 14.5mpg. That truck weighs about 7200lbs according to the scales at the salvage yard.

My saddle tanks are factory "baffled" because it came with TBI on the 350. I just swapped in the higher pressure ACDelco pumps, can't remember the part number now but it would be factory on a 97 Tahoe. The baffling doesn't do much under 1/2 tank on severe angles. For street driving I don't notice a problem until I get under 1/4 tank. IMO, the saddle tanks a much less forgiving for fuel slosh due to their shape. I feel like the K5/Burb tanks are less finicky based on the experience I've had with them.

Coming from a TBI system made the accessory costs of installing the Sniper a little cheaper. I only needed 2 pumps and the fittings to adapt the steel lines to -6AN. If you are comparing LS to aftermarket EFI, any fuel system requirements are going to be the same for either one so you could consider those a wash.

You can do the aftermarket EFI and hold off on the timing control for however long you'd like to spread out the costs. I sprung for the more expensive Holley Dual Sync distributor for timing control with the Sniper because I knew they would work well together and product support would be no concern. If you are looking to keep costs down, @Bent77 figured out a TBI distributor will work with aftermarket EFI. You can get a decent all new TBI distributor for a little over $100.

I think it's likely you could do the aftermarket EFI cheaper. I think if you decided a year later, that the EFI'd 454 still wasn't cutting it you could do an LS swap and get 75% of your investment in the EFI system back. Your fuel system would already be setup for the LS setup.

The other thing that appealed to me with the Sniper is that it will support up to 600HP. So you could also pull the 454, rebuild/hop it up, and stick it back in with the EFI all ready to go.
 
My point by all that is trying to get more mpg's for what this truck is will be a rabbit chase that you probably won't win. So really, what are the plans for the truck? What are the overall uses you want out of it. Do you just want an extra truck to have around to use? Or do you want to tow with it?
Agreed, I think low MPG isn't practical in these trucks. If that is the only consideration, a 6.2L diesel might get the best results. Just don't be in a hurry to get anywhere. :haha:
 

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