even though my fronts not done im a pic whore
CK5
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Most flexable?
- Thread starter truggy
- Start date
odin
1/2 ton status
Radius arms would not be my first choice, but I also would not resign myself to no hydro or coilovers ect.
As to the three link, Like I said it is not a bad design when done correctly. And that includes triangulation Odin...
Now the way that odin has his setup
There is no room under a Chevy, as you should know, for the triangulated setup you posted.
On a side note
I do have slight triangulation as noted in your cool diagram.
We can sit and theorize on and on but the fact will remain that it does work.
I will concede, and have on Pirate, that it is not the strongest or even the best 3 link design. But working within the constraints I have Im happy with it.
Of all the 3 links I have seen only about 5 percent are triangulated. Search for yourself on Pirate.
Does that mean they are wrong also?
If you were to look at this from below it would look like this. Note the triangulation. lower links are red and upper is green
Now the way that odin has his setup
I would think that you would want the links to be straight.
To me, it would seem that the first drawing would bind. The axle will move side to side under the truck while articulating, this is governed by the track bar (as the horizontal length of the track bar changes it moves the axle to one side or the other).
A triangulated setup will also move side to side in the same way. The thing is, for the system not to bind, the amount that the track bar moves the axle must be exactly the same as the amount that the triangulation moves the axle.
I'm just speculating here, the only track bar link suspensions that I've done were on TJ's and they were short arm (4 link, no triangulation) and long arm (radius arm, minimal triangulation), nothing I designed.
odin
1/2 ton status
I agree
Gabe seems to be the only person Ive come across that recommends a triangulated 3 link.
wayne
3/4 ton status
I try not to read (and believe everything on the net) and go for actual feedback by working at both WERock and RCrocs events and talking with the people that actually build and compete.
I was comparing 3 link set ups and gave my oponion.
73redblaze
1/2 ton status
iv always wanted to go to the east coast. farthest east iv been is nevada.... na wait i went to Florida once. so is that an invitation for a place to stay?
wayne
3/4 ton status
iv always wanted to go to the east coast. farthest east iv been is nevada.... na wait i went to Florida once. so is that an invitation for a place to stay?
Bring it, the ground even shakes on this coast.
73redblaze
1/2 ton status
not sure what that means??Bring it, the ground even shakes on this coast.
GEORGIA GABE
1/2 ton status
Does a three link have to be triangulated... no.
Is the upper link on a three link usually triangulated... yes, about 10 deg
Does triangulating a three link cause it to bind... no, as long as your mounts and joints are aligned properly it will work like a champ.
I will find you a better picture later, but here is one of a setup that I know is like the one I pictured (only difference is the lowers are mounted below the frame) and it flexes like mad.
gabe
Is the upper link on a three link usually triangulated... yes, about 10 deg
Does triangulating a three link cause it to bind... no, as long as your mounts and joints are aligned properly it will work like a champ.
I will find you a better picture later, but here is one of a setup that I know is like the one I pictured (only difference is the lowers are mounted below the frame) and it flexes like mad.
gabe
wayne
3/4 ton status
Seeing how this went way out of hand, let's get back on topic. For a fun rig on a budget sort of. You can do 52's or 56's up front but you will have to do crossover steering. Also with locking the front hydro assist should be on the list. Another option is just do full hydro. You can do the swap with mostly stock parts to save money. On the rear you can do a flip with either 52's or 56's. You can do that with mostly stock parts too. As far as shocks go, I like the BBCS shocks from Poly but the sky's the limit with shocks. As for the 60 and 14ff, just a set of 35 spline outers and slugs and you should be good to go. Gear them with 5.13's or 5.38's. Now if you use CUCV axles with 4.56's then run them and skip the gearing for the time being and put that money toward a t case. You can do a Doubler, Atlas, or Stak. As for the engine and trans, you can pretty much pick your poisen there. I think the best bang for the buck would be a 87 to 91 with a tbi 350 and 700r4. Make sure to check the laws in your state about lifts, headlight hight, tire stick out, and bumper hights. It would suck to build it and take it out and get pulled over all the time.
odin
1/2 ton status
Gabe that is a Jeep
Thought we were dealing with Chevy/GMCs
Thought we were dealing with Chevy/GMCs
wayne
3/4 ton status
73redblaze
1/2 ton status
you still have to do crossover with links right??
why not 64's??
AXLE WRAP...look here is the way i see it for the rear...starting off with a stock truck
200 bucks for a flip and shackles
if u want a nice wrap bar like diys add 500 bucks
50 bucks for a set of springs
nice shocks will cost u 200 bucks
u bolts another 50 at least
your looking at 1000 bucks to have nice stuff sure it can be done cheaper but for the non welder this is why i went to links...
right now im 1900 bucks for a shop to do my links with parts...and look at what i got for 900 more bucks...i think its WAY more worth it for flex and depature angle
wayne
3/4 ton status
I wasn't referring to links but you could link it and keep stock steering if you don't move the axle forward. I wouldn't keep the stock steering anyhow on anything built for crawling and hard core wheeling. When I first went to crossover in 2001 I could not believe the difference.
You can use 57's too. Remember the old springer set up.
even marv agrees that an elptical setup is better than his he told me personally...leaves are ok but its old technology imo...i hate doing things twice hense the reason i went to links
73redblaze
1/2 ton status
yea but no one i know runs one. i bought a 14 bolt ff for $100 and sold 3 for $100 bucks each so who cares about axle wrap?? screw the axle i could buy 5 14 bolts for the cost of one of those.
axle wrap breaks u joints...goes to show how much wheeling u actually do
here this will teach you what axle wrap is
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef6lTenmPUo
wayne
3/4 ton status
I agree, links are the way to go. I was planning to link mine 4 years ago. I was working with the person who did the stuff to the FJ I posted. We were going to come up with a link set up for a K5 and sell it as a kit. There wasn't enough intrest for us to do it from a business standpoint. Mine will get linked at some point.
I think you are confusing this with a Truss. The wrap bar prevents the springs from turning into an "S" shape under torque. Thats whats happening when you get axle hop.
It is much more pronounced with long soft springs which is why it was brought up for the 64's. Its bad with the 56's on my rig so I imagine 64's is even worse.Anyway back on topic.
