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Mr. Clean's dune cruising 71' K5 "Oprah" beams, links, and turbo ls powwwa

Overview Gallery Discussion
Iirc when I was looking at those bumps you don't want to have full bump actually all the way compressed. It'll stop a little before it bottoms out. I may be wrong so just check it out before you commit to a location. But I guess you can still adjust the position inside the can a little bit so you should be good
 
Smokinthehippies said:
Iirc when I was looking at those bumps you don't want to have full bump actually all the way compressed. It'll stop a little before it bottoms out. I may be wrong so just check it out before you commit to a location. But I guess you can still adjust the position inside the can a little bit so you should be good
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They should bottom out all the way. The internals are pretty much identical to my fox ones.
 
So seems I have been working on cycling my springs and mounting shocks and bumps for way to long now but about got it wrapped up now. Back sitting on its own weight and pretty much down. Just a little brake line work and making some bump can spacers at work tonight then ill put the bumps in. Then moving onto other things!!!



 
That thing sure always just looks too tall. Are you going to add some gussets /bracing on the shackles? I would be afraid they would fold over. Either way, I'm confident that you will have a lot of fun with it this season!
 


Well seems how this is my fully "stuffed" pic. Yes it is rather tall. I think the pictures and the 33"s exagerrate it more then what it actually is, but future plans do include getting the thing down. Its mainly due to the coil springs up front. The deaver super flex coils. They are super tall. As it sits now the front is taller then the rear and the rear has a 2.5" block.

And yes i have some cross ties made up for those shackles i made up just havent welded them on yet.
 
Im hoping to make a first trip to the dunes in 2 weeks. Which means i need to put all the free time i have into the blazer...

A little work lunch time machining

Need some spacers for my bumps so 30 minute lunch will do.....:thumb:



 
Well my debit cars is melted from swipin' it so much this monring. I have more parts coming. The orders should be 98% of all the parts i need. Nows jjst fiding time to get it all in!

 
I have been searching the forum and the intrawebs and I just cant find a definite YES answer I'm looking for so I will ask it.

I am wanting to do a gear swap in my REAR d60. I have 4.10s currently. I want to go to4.56 or 4.88's. What is the split where I need a new carrier? I have read 4.10 and I have read 4.56.

The reason I'm finding hard to find an answer as well is I read one place that a front d60 and a rear d60 are the same when it comes to ring and pinion and carriers, but then another place they are different???

I have never messed with a rear d60 before but that's what was in the blazer when I got it. Eventually i'd like to do a 14 so i'm not wanting to dump a bunch of money into this axle but I see myself with it for 2-3 years so gears are a must for me.
 
4.30 is the split. So yes 4.10 and down and 4.56 and up would be the common term.

Front and rear carriers are the same. Side gears are different. I have used ring gear spacers but better to get a new carrier
 
blazinzuk said:
4.30 is the split. So yes 4.10 and down and 4.56 and up would be the common term.

Front and rear carriers are the same. Side gears are different. I have used ring gear spacers but better to get a new carrier
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Well if i have to get a new carrier my as well get a locker:dunno:

As far as ordering ring and pinion then it doesnt need to be front or rear specific? Just needs to be d60. Thats how im taking what you said atleast?
 
I know a carrier would be ideal. But im curious on more input of the gear spacers. Is there problems with cracking or pulling threads? What about in my application where my blazer maybe might see 1000 pavement miles this summer and other then that full throttle dune sessions with my sub 200hp stock 350. :dunno: just curious.
 
Gears are centered on the carrier by a machined surface they fit over. Gear spacers give you just enough that the gear still centers. Like I said I have used em. No problems in a crawler that saw dunes several times. Only truck I knew long term. Or just get thick gears. They fit the 4.10 carrier are just thicker to make up the carrier difference
 
A thicker gear is no problem at all.

Shoot it's impossible to find deeper gears for a 14 bolt that use the 4.56 and up carrier. Everything is a thick gear.

I would get a thick gear before a spacer. The couple times I have used spacers were cause the person ordered stuff without knowing what they actually needed. And one time trying to put 7.17 gears in a Dana 61
 
Just get the thick one.


And get a master install kit, with all the shims, seals, bearings, crush sleeve etc etc.
 
Now I need to go check my gears I just bought for my 60. Typically what is a Detroit for a 60?
 
jekquistk5 said:
Now I need to go check my gears I just bought for my 60. Typically what is a Detroit for a 60?
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Around $500-600. Its not a simple drop in like the 14ff. Its a full case like my 14sf. Mine was $700, but parts for 14sf are stupid pricey compared to other axles for some reason.
 
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