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mud racer, updates - more video's

Nice vids, they look like fun (except for the cleanup).

I was wondering how those light leaf packs were going to do with axle wrap, although I didn't see which video it was when I watched them each once. It will also help if you get longer shackles, or move you mount, and ditch the lift block. The lift block just gives the axle more leverage to twist the spring up.

What shifter do you have? I notice you hit the rev limiter occasionally before you shift. Have you thought about grinding the secondary weights on your governor so it shifts automatically at the RPM you desire? It's pretty easy, all you need is a grinder and some 6D finish nails.
 
edit-- hopping-- a class. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yDZevmmC3Q&feature=related

when i put the vids up on you tube the quality went downhill. i forget which vid it shows the hopping, it may not be easy to see on youtube.

i have a hurst quarter stick gated shifter and a shift light and still hit the rev limiter. i still shift by feel like when i used to race dirt bikes. the trans is full manual so it shifts right when i tell it to. it was so hot yesterday, and i had some other things on my mind, i was a little off on my driving.

with the overload spring still there, i don't think there is enough 'up' travel. i could take out the zero rate, it was only in there to center the rear axle in the fender well. i have most of the parts i need for a traction bar, and i'm sure it would help since i 'think' i need it softer in the rear.

not sure what to think about my weight reduction bed, from the first class, the mud came up over the cab. i though about moving the fenders back out and making small shields on the inside to deflect mud from the top of the tire. being light in the rear may have had the wheels spinning and not getting traction and flinging the mud too.
 
Oh, full manual, well I guess there is no governor to modify then! ha ha Just keep having fun banging through the gears then, nothing wrong with that.

You can center the axle by redrilling the spring pad, then you can remove the zero rate.

I like the idea of moving the fenders back out and putting in some inner fenders only above the tires.
 
my 14b has the cast in spring pads.

usually i can shift pretty good, but i think with less rear traction it was revving quicker then normal.
 
You're doing pretty well at the races it seems, no need to defend your driving. I hit the rev limiter sometimes too, especially if something has changed. It happens. Sounds like you have it under control to me, you know what you're doing.

Maybe it's worth getting rid of those spring pads just so you can eliminate the zero rate? If your trying to eliminate wheel hop that's what I would do.

I have no traction bar, no blocks, and factory 2" lift leaves with a shackle flip out back, and the only time I have wheel hop is when I am on pavement, and I am almost hooked up. If I tromp on it and the zing the tires they don't have enough traction to hop. But when they are about to grip then they hop. So it takes quite a bit of traction to make them hop. Sand won't make them hop at all, even with the paddles there wasn't enough traction.
 
folkenheath- i appreciate your input on this. a little help from someone like you goes a long way.

i think i know what you mean about the traction part. in theory it shouldn't have enough traction to axle wrap in the mud, but maybe it does. this pit has a mostly hard bottom in it now, it was redone this past month.

i could get a set of the longer axle pads to help with the wrap and get rid of the zero rate at the same time.

i need to check on pavement to see if it is axle wrap for sure , it may have just been bottoming out on the overload spring and bouncing.
 
YZEATER said:
folkenheath- i appreciate your input on this. a little help from someone like you goes a long way.

i think i know what you mean about the traction part. in theory it shouldn't have enough traction to axle wrap in the mud, but maybe it does. this pit has a mostly hard bottom in it now, it was redone this past month.

i could get a set of the longer axle pads to help with the wrap and get rid of the zero rate at the same time.

i need to check on pavement to see if it is axle wrap for sure , it may have just been bottoming out on the overload spring and bouncing.
Click to expand...

Thanks, glad I'm not annoying you. :waytogo: I just try to remember you have more mudracing experience than I do, no reason for me to preach to the choir.

I guess my point was, you may not need a full fledged traction bar or the extra weight if you can do some mild stuff and get it to stop the wrap, because you aren't on pavement or rock, just like you were saying with the traction.
 
Yzeater we have a manual valve body w/shift light and always on the chip too. I have vids but not savy enough to post. I had rather be on the limiter than shortshift and be out of the powerband.

I agree that traction bars may solve the hop that occurs when you hit HARD ground.
I need some myself since hop+44s+12 bolt=breakage.
 
a semi local small video company 'hillbilly proud' goes around and video's off road events. they came to our mud bog last on 7-10-11.

there is a couple on there. check out who made the intro!!!! same bog as i have vids from post #60.


LINKS-- VID 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrS3XoTuy2I&feature=feedu

VID 2-- http://www.youtube.com/user/hillbillyproud#p/u/6/jxR-mQ0dWNE

VID 3-- http://www.youtube.com/user/hillbillyproud#p/u/5/HgzaP_WC3Sw

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrS3XoTuy2I&feature=feedu[/youtube]
 
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Nice videos, some funny stuff in there, and a few that that sound pretty darn good too. Yours does sound nice.

You sure soaked the camera in that last one!
 
i took out the overload and added i spring back into the pack. i left the zero rate for now, i thought i would loose too much height if i took it out. we'll see how it works for now.

we're going to a different race pit this sunday.
 
went to ohio for some deep bogging sunday. 7-24-11. the pit was rough and deep. my sides and back are hurting today yet, and i still have the cushy bench seat.

i got 2- 3rd places. i ran the 35-39, and 40" and up classes. 6 trucks were in the 40" and up class and about 15 were in the 35"-39 class.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6Salpdvq78 - 1st run, didn't make it out, 4th truck in the pit.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isc9br1s8C8 - 1st run b class



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-z0UbaTKpA - 2nd run c class


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isc9br1s8C8 - 2nd run b class
 
one buddy that went along broke the ears off a ford d44 inner and outer.

in my vids, there is a jeep that went along with us, you can see how rough the pit was by watching it.
 
we had 3 bogs in the past 6 days. thought i broke my tranny saturday nite, fixed it sunday morning then went to our normal bog and got 2 1st places, 2 3rd places and a 4th.

on thursday nite we went to a semi local fair and did pretty well also. they run the same rules as our normal place. we only changed tires once from 35's to 38's.

i ran my truck and won c class (35's), and got 3rd in b class (37-44"), and 4th in a class (open).

i let my brother in law run my truck in b class and he won!!! first time driving it other then in the yard.

there was at least 30 trucks in each class. i didn't get home till 1:30 am. winning were $748 . way better then last year when we gt screwed out of $250.

c class win.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9apljNInqZY

my 3rd place b class run.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77JN2a1POB8

my BIL's winning run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idFO8cHReu0
 
Sweet, congrats on the wins! That ought to buy a forged stroker crank for a big block! he he
 
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