That 2nd picture looks like an ad for Yukon Gear.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Muddysub's Toyota crawler.
- Thread starter muddysub
- Start date
One down...
Any updates? Picked up a rusted up 83 to build, just read back through for more inspiration.
I actually took it out wheeling yesterday for the first time since KOH. I haven’t made any changes to the truck since I regeared it though.
The truck did really well, pulled off one line that only buggies had done before me and no one else in my group could make. Took a little body damage and got lost for a while. Had a great time. Only real hiccup was a misfire type symptom that I picked up after a hard bounce/stall. Thought i fouled a plug or something. (Not even sure that’s possible on propane.) turned out to be the hose from the PCV valve to the intake manifold, it came loose causing a big vacuum leak. I changed the plugs tonight and then found the hose, clamped it back down and it runs like a top again.
I stepped up my rock light game exponentially with these new LEDs from www.all4offroad.com. Their second generation lights are 1100 lumens each, come in three different designs and they’re cheap. I installed 8 of their Toyota branded flex lights under the yota and have been on two night runs in the last week. This shit kicks ass, it’s too hot to wheel during daylight hours now, it’s still in the 80s at night.
The truck on the left has 8 of all4’s first generation lights on it.
The truck on the left has 8 of all4’s first generation lights on it.
WTF! Someone needs to make some cool "CHEVY" or "BLAZER" lights like that.
The local Toyota crew has been doing a lot of night wheeling this summer. It’s rare that it makes for good photos but I’ll dump off some of the decent ones here.
Last weekend was a good one! We went up a new wash with a few good waterfalls including one that we had to bypass, well try that one in the daylight. On one climb I picked up both front tires for a second and rocked back onto the flatbed, set it down, renegotiated and made the climb. Another one, that we’ve all been rejected on at some point, swallowed my truck up when I turned too soon and slipped in. We tried but there was no driving out of it. Then it took an hour to get another truck up the hill and around to pull me out. 4mi from my house, got home at 2:30am lol!
Last weekend was a good one! We went up a new wash with a few good waterfalls including one that we had to bypass, well try that one in the daylight. On one climb I picked up both front tires for a second and rocked back onto the flatbed, set it down, renegotiated and made the climb. Another one, that we’ve all been rejected on at some point, swallowed my truck up when I turned too soon and slipped in. We tried but there was no driving out of it. Then it took an hour to get another truck up the hill and around to pull me out. 4mi from my house, got home at 2:30am lol!
Now that is my kind of wheeling!!!!!!
Hell yeah Scott.
Badass.
David
David
Damn I guess it’s time for another update. The Toyota is still kicking ass, wheeling the hardest stuff we have around Vegas, day and night, driving on the highway to and from closer trails. I got a chance to wheel with @AgDieseler a month or so ago when he was in town for SEMA, I’ve been down to Johnson valley, up north to Logandale Trails and hit a bunch of local stuff. It’s been super reliable with no real breakage this year. It’s picked up quite a few dents along the way but that doesn’t bother me. As of thanksgiving weekend my rear springs are shot though. We’re about to address that.
So the next thing happening to the Toyota is a rear spring swap. The springs in there now are 52” K5 rears that @Fastereddie donated back before KOH. They’ve been settling a lot and after that last weekend in JV, they’re shot. I’m surprised they haven’t broken, axle wrap is getting a little excessive and my shocks are nearly bottomed out at ride height.
I have a set of 2nd gen Ford Raptor rear springs here that I plan on installing. I think I’ve mentioned them here before. Everyone in the Toyota world swaps in 63” Chevy springs because they flex really well, these Raptor springs are built to outperform regular 1/2ton springs so I think they’re going to be pretty awesome. These springs are 59” eye to eye, 3” wide and have 9.25” of free arch. The overload leaf has a clamp on it that should help fight axle wrap, I’ll leave that there for now. Looks like I can move the spring hanger forward 4” and actually gain and inch of wheelbase while leaving the shackle where it’s at on the frame. They have to be done this month though so I have to get cracking.
I have a question about center pin(s). These springs have two center pins 1.5” on center, my perches obviously don’t. Can I remove one center pin or should I weld on some new perches drilled to accommodate two center pins? Seems to me that as long as the empty hole is within the length of the perch and spring plate, pinched by the U-bolts, it shouldn’t be an issue. What does CK5 think? If it’s not an issue I could even use it to adjust the wheelbase by 1.5” either way.
I have a set of 2nd gen Ford Raptor rear springs here that I plan on installing. I think I’ve mentioned them here before. Everyone in the Toyota world swaps in 63” Chevy springs because they flex really well, these Raptor springs are built to outperform regular 1/2ton springs so I think they’re going to be pretty awesome. These springs are 59” eye to eye, 3” wide and have 9.25” of free arch. The overload leaf has a clamp on it that should help fight axle wrap, I’ll leave that there for now. Looks like I can move the spring hanger forward 4” and actually gain and inch of wheelbase while leaving the shackle where it’s at on the frame. They have to be done this month though so I have to get cracking.
I have a question about center pin(s). These springs have two center pins 1.5” on center, my perches obviously don’t. Can I remove one center pin or should I weld on some new perches drilled to accommodate two center pins? Seems to me that as long as the empty hole is within the length of the perch and spring plate, pinched by the U-bolts, it shouldn’t be an issue. What does CK5 think? If it’s not an issue I could even use it to adjust the wheelbase by 1.5” either way.
Great time wheeling, and it was good to catch up. The ‘yota is a damn fine trail machine, and with a very capable pilot - wish you and Christy could have joined the Shenanigans at Hoffbrau.
I follow your logic - if there is zero deflection of the spring around the open hole, including some small amount past it, you might be in business. Weight is also on your side.
Are your existing perches long enough?
David
Last edited:
Ditch it. Same thing when I put the minipack on my mega cab. The new ones didn’t have the second center pin. Was told it didn’t matter.
The center pin in my understanding is to tie the leafs together. Two bolts would help the stay straight instead of splaying out.
I'd leave it. As Keith says it will keep the leaf pack from moving around too much. Important when you constantly go from full bump to full rebound. Too far apart to just drill a new hole is your current perch?
or the next time you let Eric drive it.
They’re 1.5” apart, I should be able to drill my perches for the second pin. The leaf packs are pretty well clamped, I can’t imagine them fanning if I ditched one pin. I’m about to order parts, hangers, shackles, u-bolts and spring plates should do it. I can cut the shackle hangers off and relocate them, drill out some new 6” shackles to fit my needs and relocate the front hanger by a few inches. This should keep the wheelbase where it is so I don’t have to mess with shocks or drivelines.
Lots of older F150s always end up with the stupid splayed out leaves on the rear springs. I'd guess that's why they went to the dual center pins also.
You would be surprised how much they fan
