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My 5.3 swap thread!

Why stick with the TH400? I'd absolutely put in the 4l60e from the Tahoe into your truck! The OD gear is well worth it, and the NP241 will bolt straight up. Plus it eliminates a bunch of goofing around with wiring in a park / neutral switch etc.
 
Teck said:
You just take the cable part off and put on the linkage from the 700 it all bolts right in place and yes it will have the neutral safety switch on it. Tranny guy said no problem the shaft is all the same where the shift linkage connects.
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Good to know! :D
 
Mostly the cost involved. The motor is at a junk yard and already separated from the trans anyhow. Financialy, I can just barely afford the motor. also there is the strength differencea. The 4l60e would go south quick in a 3/4 ton suburban. And plus, I just really like the th400! It floats my boat.
 
Russell said:
Why stick with the TH400? I'd absolutely put in the 4l60e from the Tahoe into your truck! The OD gear is well worth it, and the NP241 will bolt straight up. Plus it eliminates a bunch of goofing around with wiring in a park / neutral switch etc.
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I kept my th400 in the truck with a 5.3L swap. Just delete the park/neutral codes in the computer, no big deal. Racers have been doing that for over a decade. a 4L60E isn't a very strong trans, if he had a 4L80E then it would be worth the swap, otherwise they don't last long towing compared to a th400.
 
I would like to add this into the thread I have been researching this myself as well on how to make it emissions legal. I know this is different for you not living in Arizona but I stooped by a testing station on my way home for some information.

The guy behind the counter said I had to use all my 1982 emissions components hooked up and it would pass as a 82. I asked him about my smog pump and he said they would do a loaded 35mph test to see if it jumps around or steady. If it is steady they move onto a chassis dynamometer loaded test that simulates average driving on the street.

So basically I vent my gas tank and hook a vac line up to the evap purge valve and I'm done.:woot:
 
Called on it. Its a 5.7... what a dumb dumb. Anyway, the junkyard is making me nervous cause they say that it will possibly be missing things like the starter and alternator and that i cant see it before i buy it cause its down at their main warehouse and customers arent allowed in there...
 
Yea, i was figuring something was up when the add said its a 98 model. Its a gen II vortec. of the 96-99ish era.
 
Looking like im going to have to cross my fingers and hope for the best on the ones for $625 from the local junkyard. Been calling around and not finding alot of good options...
 
Babaganoosh said:
I would like to add this into the thread I have been researching this myself as well on how to make it emissions legal. I know this is different for you not living in Arizona but I stooped by a testing station on my way home for some information.

The guy behind the counter said I had to use all my 1982 emissions components hooked up and it would pass as a 82. I asked him about my smog pump and he said they would do a loaded 35mph test to see if it jumps around or steady. If it is steady they move onto a chassis dynamometer loaded test that simulates average driving on the street.

So basically I vent my gas tank and hook a vac line up to the evap purge valve and I'm done.:woot:
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Mine is registered in a different county than Maricopa so no emissions for me. My tags are good until 02/15:whistle:
 
Lucky you! I have to have mine done in Maricopa. What did you end up doing on your conversion for the emission components?
 
Well, im already hitting the point where im at a crossroads with this swap. Heres the deal, i got about $1200 to work with right now and about $100 a month after that. It starting to look like $1600 or so to get the 5.3 swap done and on the road unless i come across a really good deal. When i first started, i thought the junkyard motors would be complete minus the computer and harness. But its looking like any one that i get will be one thats already been picked at on things like the starter, alternator, some sensors, and o2 sensors. That being the case, a motor for $625 quickly turns into a $900 motor before i even buy the harness, computer, motor mounts, fuel pump, etc. So, as it is now, i can buy stuff and just not complete it until april/may or so. Or, i can take door number two. Door number two would be me just buying a different (hear it run) TBI 350 to swap out in place of the demon one thats in there now. There is two on CL right now for $379 and $400. Both of which i could probably get for $350. That would leave me enough to get it registered again, replace the front window motors/regulators, couple door/window seals, and a few other things and just get the thing back on the road and start enjoying it again! Or, i could follow my dreams and practice my extreme patience, and keep on track for the 5.3. Quite the dilemma!
 
I wouldnt give up just yet on the 5.3. I picked one up complete with harness, computer and all sensors, minus the starter for 400.00. It has 80,000 miles on it. Just compression checked it and it ran between 160 and 170 on all cyls. I know ebay sucks, but dont rule it out. Thats where I found mine. The deals are out there. Just gotta keep looking.
 
Yea, i think im not quite ready to give up on the 5.3. I think it was just a bit of a heavy blow knowing how much it was actually going to cost up front compared to what i thought it was going to be. We'll see what happens. I have a list of 29 possible engines right now from junkyards within 50 miles, engines with less then 140k and $675 or less. I SHOULD be able to find something out of all that that will work!
 
you can call the junkyard and buy the starter/alternator etc off the same engine. Bought mine off ebay, drove 2 hours to a yard, when I was there i picked up a 145amp alternator off a different gen 3 truck, and a starter. Bought the red/blue computer off ebay for $40 from another auction, and a MAF for $30. I like my cable driven setup though ;)
 
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