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My 5.3 swap thread!

I wasn't thinking right when I said it mounts on the core support. It does mount on the battery tray. I have a passenger side battery tray and that was where I first wanted to mount,it but it would not fit or bolt up like I wanted. That is why it end up on the fender well.
image.jpg
You can see it on the right behind the battery and washer fluid bottle.

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Babaganoosh said:
Yes I do, I just want everything perfect and simple to work on.

Do you have any pictures how you mounted yours? I was thinking about using the glove box door for a mount and fuse box.
Click to expand...

This is the only pic i have. You can see it was sort of cradeled in that cup shaped piece that originally hid the A/C recirculate door actuator.

IMAG0623.jpg


Teck said:
I wasn't thinking right when I said it mounts on the core support. It does mount on the battery tray. I have a passenger side battery tray and that was where I first wanted to mount,it but it would not fit or bolt up like I wanted. That is why it end up on the fender well.
View attachment 151157
You can see it on the right behind the battery and washer fluid bottle.
Click to expand...

Im going to mount mine pretty much right there also i think. Somewhere on that inner fender anyway.
 
Small update. First off, Biggest of thanks to eaglemark! For his patience, understanding, and helpfulness! He is the go to guy for your fuel injection needs! For those of you that have been following along, you will remember that it turned out when i got this motor, the harness and computer i got with it were 2000 camaro pieces. The fella i got the setup from told me that it was wired and programmed for a 5.3. That turned out to be incorrect. The computer as it turned out was actually programmed for an LS1. Surprisingly, it actually ran the the 5.3 fairly well. But not quite right as you might guess.

At the time i found this out, i was basically out of funds to get the computer reprogrammed. Thats when eaglemark stepped up and graciously offered to reprogam the computer to 5.3 settings free of charge! It turned out be fairly tricky as we found out due to the ls1 wiring. In the end he worked his magic and got me properly programmed computer.

Still, i had a problem with the the new program not reading the oxygen sensors. I knew that it was something to do with the 5.3 program not playing nice with the LS1 wiring. I even tried to get eaglemark to swap the ls1 portion of the program that read the oxygen sensors. He explained to me that not only would it be massively complicated, it wasn't needed. A rewire of the oxygen sensors would be all that was needed.

I wasnt looking forward to ripping apart the harness to re wire the sensros. But I did a ton of research and found that the solution was rediculously simple. Most of my research was done on lt1swap.com which is an invaluable resourse for swappers. In it he not only explains how and why the o2 sensor wiring needs modified, but explains the differences in the oxygen sensors themselves, as well as provides wiring diagrams for them on various LS vehicles. After reading the info over and over, it all became clear when i compared the LS1 o2 sensor wiring to a 5.3 o2 sensor wiring diagram. Everything is exactly the same between the two. Except, the 5.3 wiring has pin 63 tied into the tan wires for the oxygen sensors which provides a ground path. After i added a pin in the 63 position and spliced it into my tan wires, I had the oxygen sensors reading perfectly again!

Here is the LS1 (and case ground early truck motors) o2 sensor wiring, no pin 63.

fig_10.gif


And here is the 5.3 wiring (later isolated ground type), Notice pin 63 tied into the tan low reference wires.

isolated_ground_schematic.gif
 
Finally ordered a new temperature sensor for the gauge. Im going to have a friend with a lathe turn down the diameter and then run a die over it. Only $9.91 shipped from rock auto!

Doing like this guy did.

2011-11-13_23-20-40_651.jpg
 
let us know how far he turned it down before he ran threads on it, the machinist at work said he would turn mine down for me. I'm just not sure on how much you need for threads. I know it's a 12mm hole, so maybe 13mm?
 
Yeah 12mm thread, I meant were to stop milling to get threads. I guess I could check some threads with a caliper.
 
You just need to look up the number in the Machinery's Handbook. Every good machinist has one within arms reach.

Edit: Machinery's Handbook is very specific for recommended tap drill diameters. Not so much for thread forming because there are different methods used (cutting, rolling, milling, and even sub-sets of those). I think you are safe to use the nominal diameter of the thread for using a hand turned die, ie 12 mm diameter for M12 thread.
 
That's what I'm thinking. Just like a 3/8 bolt is called that because it's 3/8 diameter. So it stands to reason that 12mm threads would be 12mm diameter.
 
Ultimately, most bolts will measure slightly less than the nominal diameter. The allowable tolerance depends on how the threads are formed.
 
Y5mgisi, what did you end up using for the trans kick down? I've been going through your entire thread and I can't find it. I've been trying to figure out the right way to do it but I think the easy way to figure it out is to just ask you. Thanks for any help.
 
I just didnt bother hooking it up. I think if i was going to do it i would just use an old school peddle mounted switch like they had on pre computer controlled th400s.
 
Dbc. There is only one I'll effect which rarely presents itself and that's just that it doesn't always kick down when floored. You have to be abovessomething like 92% throttle to activate the switch anyway. I have never had that bother me thus far. I'm used to th350s that never seem to have their kick down cable properly adjusted and therefore have gotten used to putting the Trans in 2nd if I actually need to. But again, if you just Google something along the lines of "th400 kick down switch" you will see how simple it is to hook up. I just don't find it necessary.
 
Perhaps if I were regularly towing through mountains it would become annoying. So far, on any of the mountains and steep sections of highway, the truck has been plenty happy in 3rd gear. With the power you have it will be even less of a problem.
 
You bet! My advice to you would be to get it on the road and then decide if you need it or not. If you do, its easy enough to hook up with the pedel mounted switch.
 
FYI, that switch also increases the pressure a little bit for stronger shifts. Although for most vehicles it probably doesn't matter. I drove around with a TH400 wihout the switch for over 10 years without a problem before I hooked it up in my car.
 
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