CK5
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My '70 C/10 - The Rat Bastard... [Won't Idle.]

Installed some Crutchfield XTC speaker baffles. :pimp:
They protect the speakers from water damage, and isolate vibration.

When Crutchfield ships you foam, they make sure it gets there safe. :haha:
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Worlds worst soup bowls...
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Fit good..
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See...
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Compressed the baffle...
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Trim the excess now, for a clean install.
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Start the grill... Tuck in the stragglers.
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Clean.
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Kudos to Crutchfield...
These things are DOPE, and for $7/pair, I'm blown away at the quality.
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Crutchfield is top of the line for sure as far as speakers go. I wish I would have went that route instead of Alpine Type R speakers. Now my JL 12s on the other hand were worth every penny.

Edit I wish I would have seen them speaker gaskets when I did my system in my Suburban. I keep having my front speakers short in and out of the dash. Next time.
 
I actually got the idea from a high end audio forum.... I love Google.


Going to look soooo good lowered.
I bought the 4/6 drop Early Classic Ent., kit.... But, sent it back.
I decided that I'm just gonna cut the front coils, and use a 5" rear drop spring.

In a few months, I'll be installing airbags.
So, a frugal static drop makes more sense for the time being...
 
I actually got the idea from a high end audio forum.... I love Google.



I bought the 4/6 drop Early Classic Ent., kit.... But, sent it back.
I decided that I'm just gonna cut the front coils, and use a 5" rear drop spring.

In a few months, I'll be installing airbags.
So, a frugal static drop makes more sense for the time being...

I thought about picking up some of the speaker baffles, but they had bad review's. Let us know how they sound. Would probably help out the speakers in the dash and rear bed panels in the k5.
 
I thought about picking up some of the speaker baffles, but they had bad review's. Let us know how they sound. Would probably help out the speakers in the dash and rear bed panels in the k5.

I heard that they take out a bit of the high end, making them more "mid-y".
On a 6x9 they bring that terrible treble down.
On 6.5" and 5.25" (round) speakers, they should make it a "low" speaker.

That's actually what I was going for, as I'm going to install mini-tweeters next to them.
That will level them up a bit, for a more full sound.
*Considering, that the bench seat will muffle them, too.*

Then, I'm putting two 6.5's under the dash.
Those will fire toward the floorboards.

With the addition of my tool box mounted 12", 400w Sub, It should sound just fine... :pimp: :thumb:
A good mix of low-to-mid range, with a lot of bass, and a little treble.
I mainly listen to metal, so it should be perfect.
 
I heard that they take out a bit of the high end, making them more "mid-y".
On a 6x9 they bring that terrible treble down.
On 6.5" and 5.25" (round) speakers, they should make it a "low" speaker.

That's actually what I was going for, as I'm going to install mini-tweeters next to them.
That will level them up a bit, for a more full sound.
*Considering, that the bench seat will muffle them, too.*

Then, I'm putting two 6.5's under the dash.
Those will fire toward the floorboards.

With the addition of my tool box mounted 12", 400w Sub, It should sound just fine... :pimp: :thumb:

Good god man. :saweet:
 
Good god man. :saweet:

I LIVE FOR MUSIC...


I start my day with a monster, and All That Remains *CRANKED*....

My brain thinks a hundred things a second... by-product of ADD.
It's f*cking insane....

But, metal, cranked the f*ck up, makes it stop.
ADD is cured by double-bass drums.

So, yeah.... I like speakers. :D
That, and the sound system in our Tundra is AMAZING.
I'll have nothing less.
 
You got a link for more info on the clr/sb clear coat technique? I think that's what my ugly thing needs, it's a little too beat up to put that much effort into. I don't want I rattle can it and have to deal with door jams and the interior.
 
Yea, never.... :haha:

I've essentially been FLAT BROKE.
That's why I spent $20 on CLR and Scotch Brites... Cuz I can't afford anything else. :doah:

I still have to buy, a shifter, a kickdown assembly, a speedo gear and wire, some hoses, an air filter, the brake master cylinder, brakelines, and the related clamps, etc.

So,I'm very close... Just BROKE.

I've already put a sh*t ton more money into it, Than I initially thought I would.
Because it was essentially a truck, and a motor.
I've built it from there, so, yeah.... If I Had the $$$ this **** would be running mid-13's, on a full tank.
But, unfortunately work is non-existent currently, and I have bills.

So, yeah.... It'll run when it runs.
And, don't forget all the gawdamn parts I ordered FOR THIS MOTOR, that were wrong.
 
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And for everyone's information,
I make sure AT LEAST one thing gets done on this truck EVERY DAY.

I just don't post every stupid thing, cuz that sh*t is boring.
 
Now I'm off to make my own 2" lowering blocks, because I'm a cheap bastard. :haha:

2"x.250 wall square tube - Free.
Custom U-Bolts - $20.

Having a level ride... Priceless. :D

If any of this sh*t I have on CL sells, I'll be finishing this thing faster.
 
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This is what happens when you use square stock blocks. This is a buddies of ours truck, square stock crushed and ubolts loosened up causing the axle to wrap underneath the truck. I understand wanting to be cheap but in this case not a good thing to be cheap on.

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There's like 20 guys running 2" square stock lowering blocks, right now.
Every single one of them is fine?.... :dunno:

On a big ass 4x4 I would NEVER do it.... But this is a street truck.
I really think this is one of those "4x4 based opinions".
 
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