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My '70 C/10 - The Rat Bastard... [Won't Idle.]

My HEI power wire is the "coil positive" feed.

I'm pretty sure that its a vacuum, or fuel issue.

EDIT: MY HEI +12v, is from my MSD box...
 
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TheBeast_88K5 said:
My HEI power wire is the "coil positive" feed.

I'm pretty sure that its a vacuum, or fuel issue.
Click to expand...

Also make sure you've removed or bypassed the resistor, then. HEI's will run at like eight volts or something, but they won't be happy about it.

Anyway, just throwin' out ideas. Fuel delivery is not my forte -- as you recall from my issues with the blue truck -- so you're on your own there =))

-- A
 
Alright....

I adjusted the Idle Screws, and got a mixture the motor was 'happier' with.
I also got the Vacuum ports dealt with.

Fired it up, Set the Idle speed at 1,000 RPM, Ran for about a minute, then stalled.... :D
So, my fuel issue is being resolved, and I need a timing light.
 
TheBeast_88K5 said:
How would i check said wire?
Just pill it, hook it to the VoltMeter, and fire the ignition?
Click to expand...

Sorta. You wanna check it under load, actually, so you put the volt meter on it while it's running, no need to pull it.

You can also just trace the wire and look for the ceramic resistor mess back by the firewall -- at least that's how it worked for '73-'74.

As for a timing light, I have an old one in the garage which you could take if you ever get your azz down here for that tranny cooler. :surepal: Or Issaam's prolly got five :haha:

-- A
 
I got one from Dan.... (1970worthog) :waytogo:

Somehow... And im not sure how, but somehow, I set the initial timing to 10* RETARDED.
Well.. Fixed it.
Its now at ~12* advanced initial timing and loving it.

It ran BEAUTIFULLY for about 5 minutes @ 2000 RPM.

That is until my headbolts started dripping coolant.
Which is the OPPOSITE of awesome. :doah:

At least it runs.... :doah:
 
Retorque your head bolts. Hopefully you can save the head gasket. Either way check your fluids to ensure they arent mixed. Ouch. The resister wire is a bout. 12 guage then fattens up where the resister is. Then gets skinny by the firewall. I just ran a seperate wire with a spade terminal at the acc spot on the fuse block. Not sure if your new wiring has that spot or not. If the wire hasn't been changed it will lose power when it pops from too many amps through the dizzy.
 
when they did, chevy's ran a resistor wire, easy to spot, they are cloth covered.... not a ceramic ballast like Mopar's... I'm doubting that has one tho.. first gen guys can confirm...

af out the headbolts is not good... . hopefully you followed proper sequence, inside to out, in 3 steps..

you should always run a sealant on any headbolt that goes into a cooling passage.. if you did not, I would immediately pull the suspect bolts, apply a sealant, reinstall, than torque them to spec... hopefully you shouldn't have to pull the head if they where all tightened properly on initial startup and just came up the threads..
 
Did the exact same thing to my 454 when I had the heads went through. Just pull the bolts one by one that are in the water jackets and coat them with sealant. Its a for sure put your head through your own windshield feeling, but thats why we love it.
 
oh, and just so it's been said, drain most of the af out before removing the bolts.. ;)
 
Drained the AF.... It was still green.
Drained the Oil... Still "new", a little bit of crap from the block, but still new.
No coolant. No Gas. :woot:

Thank gawd.

Now to reseal ALL my headbolts... Can't. F*cking.Wait.
But, hey.... At least i can remove my brake booster still, right!? :haha:
 
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ryoken said:
you should always run a sealant on any headbolt that goes into a cooling passage.. if you did not, I would immediately pull the suspect bolts, apply a sealant, reinstall, than torque them to spec... hopefully you shouldn't have to pull the head if they where all tightened properly on initial startup and just came up the threads..
Click to expand...


Im thinking that I didnt apply enough sealant.
I PM'd you about this.

Its a TINY drip, from a couple bolts on the DS head.
I'm thinking too little sealant, because theyre probably ALL the coolant-relative bolts. :doah:

The BBC Rebuild Guide just says, "Put sealant on the bolt threads."

Gonna reseal them all.
I'll do the Passenger side, too.... Because they have the exact same amount. :doah:


Chalk it up to First Time Blues, I guess... :popcorn::dunno:
 
Okay, so I went out to move my drain pan, and thought: "That oil looks thin."

Dropped a paper towel on the lid. (Its the hole in the center, enclosed kinda pan.)
Im gonna assume the thin stuff on the edges is coolant, right? :doah:

Not positive.... But, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna have a heart attack.

image.jpg
 
Coolant will sink to the bottom. Pour it into another container. You should be able to see if its separated.
 
don't sweat it... just change the oil as a precaution... if it came out milkshake, than you'd have some issues..

just recheck it after it's been running at temp for a bit to make sure it doesn't have any emulsifying going on..
 
I did put some in a glass (dont tell my wife)....
It was the first oil out of the drain plug.
So, I presume it would have the 'most' coolant in it..

I let it sit, and it never seperated.
I had the "Oil is lighter than water" thought, too. :D

Is this what i should do?:

- reseal the leaky bolts.
- fill with oil.
- drain oil.
- fill again.
 
nah, don't bother draining it again till you run it for a bit..

assuming the issue is fixed, fill it, run it, check for slight emulsifying from leftovers once hot..

now, if it ran long enough that it was looking like milkshake, than you'd wanna do a flush...
 
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