What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

My '70 C/10 - The Rat Bastard... [Won't Idle.]

tho I set my valves up cold the majority of the times without issue.. I do have a pair of cheap BB and SB covers with windows cut in em for adjusting while running too that I do use in certain cases... Mutt being one of them with it's "no oil pressure, replace oil pump, ticky lifter" situation when I first got it....

I've had oil deflector clips for decades, but once I got into the marine biz, and many regular tin vc's became available to me, I decided to make some windowed ones.. not as quick as the clips, but cleaner..

they hang in the Lab to this day..
 
Yeah I second the valve cover trick, I set all my stuff loose and crank her down when the engine running :waytogo:

Although on my vortec, I stuffed a huge rag on the headers to stop the oil, works good if you work really fast :haha:


I await burnout video :whistle::popcorn:
 
max 02 said:
Sweet! Glad you found the problem Mike!
Carry on with the good news! :thumb:
Click to expand...

Thanks. Me too.

Gonna throw all new vac plugs on it, cuz it has a really erratic idle.
I'm almost positive one of the chinese vac plugs cracked. :doah:

Ill be at it, tomoro.
I want to drive this truck so bad, I can taste it.
 
fyi all the cranking with no fire and raw fuel in the engine not burning . . . . change the oil before any major run time .

I have seen / smelled lots of flooded motors with raw fuel in the crank case oil .

and last its the stupid stuff that will get you . glad it was a simple fix except for time. but now you should not have any wiring problems for a long time. :whistle:
 
You know that if you are adjusting the vlaves without the motor running you need to do them one by one with the pistons on TDC in the firing order right? I dont remember if BBC is the same as SBC, but when i do mine (on sbc) i use this method. This way you only have to spin the motor over once. Works everytime.

http://www.thedirtforum.com/chevyvalves.htm
 
y5mgisi said:
You know that if you are adjusting the vlaves without the motor running you need to do them one by one with the pistons on TDC in the firing order right? I dont remember if BBC is the same as SBC, but when i do mine (on sbc) i use this method. This way you only have to spin the motor over once. Works everytime.

http://www.thedirtforum.com/chevyvalves.htm
Click to expand...

that's the way I've always done em too...
 
I know how to adjust the valves.
I own the Big Block Chevy Rebuild Guide.
I was adjusting for new valves... Not old, cold ones.

At any rate....

The only way I can get it to idle, is by keeping my foot on the gas, slightly;
And keeping it at 1000RPM.
Even then, it sounds like it has a GIANT cam.

Am I a tooth off?
Seems like it, but I swear I dropped the dizzy correctly.
- Brought to 10* BTDC#1, compression
- Dropped distributor, so rotor points at #1.
 
this term is a myth... if the dizzy is showing proper timing at the balancer, it means the towers are in proper timing relation to the rotor...

will it be pointing at #1 cylinder? nope.. but as I've stated eleventy times in here, that means nothing to a properly running engine... the only time it would become an issue is when the dizzy body hit's a firewall, intake, etc, and can't be turned to properly time the motor.. (or if coughgasmonkeyidjits are gonna do your plug wirescough) ;)


how does it spin and light off? spin and light quick?

does it rev up ok? bring it to 3 g's, give it 32 degrees timing (your way too hung up on timing #'s... 97 out of 100 v-8 chevys will run reasonable at 32 total, maybe not optimum, but it's a standard starting point that any will run "ok" at), than set the idle screw at the minimum it'll stay running, even if it's 1000, than check for vac leaks...
 
sweetk30 said:
fyi all the cranking with no fire and raw fuel in the engine not burning . . . . change the oil before any major run time .

I have seen / smelled lots of flooded motors with raw fuel in the crank case oil .

and last its the stupid stuff that will get you . glad it was a simple fix except for time. but now you should not have any wiring problems for a long time. :whistle:
Click to expand...

Ive seen a guy I worked with blow the valve cover out on a motor from this happening and then it firing.
 
So, Im gonna do an oil change.
Then, Ill do what ryoken said.

It spins and lights fine.
It just acts like its not getting enough fuel below 1k, stumbles, then dies.
 
that VERY well could be a vac leak... usually it's a carb base, but very well could be a rubber plug...

most will say carb cleaner.. as long as the motors not mega hot, been run for awhile, I prefer ether.. much easier to notice that rpm INCREASE, as opposed to the stalling of carb cleaner.. especially when you have a stalling condition to begin with..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom