CDA 455
3/4 ton status
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Last edited:
CK5
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My Front Dana 70 Build
- Thread starter CDA 455
- Start date
Dude that thing is sweet!
You could have that perch cut off, and have a new one welded on.
You could have that perch cut off, and have a new one welded on.
it is cast into the dif
Easy answer, is you can link the front and call it a day. More difficult answer, I'm sure you could have a piece machined to fit next to the current perch, and then welded to the diff and tube. That would extend the perch.
And your point?
I've had mine welded for many a year now, with no problems. When it was done, the shop that did it, re-heat treated the whole housing. there is very little lateral force on it, plus the bottom housing rib is notched for the U-bolt on the inboard side. it's not going anywhere.
I guess my point was it makes it a pain in the ass to just cut off. Seems like it would be easier, cheaper and just as strong to just extend the perch like muddermilitia suggested
when the shop got it, they held it up with a engine hoist and just ground it off with a big industrial belt sander, took like 2 minutes. I watched the whole thing.
sweet its amazing what you can do with the right tools
Drum brakes? Look again. Its got the "C's" which means open knuckles and will use disc brakes.
Clem, whatever the degree of the perches are and depending on how much lift you're planning to run can be offset with degree shims.
If you're using a tall lift, the pinion angle will be closer to ok but still need some shims to keep the castor where it should be.
If you're planning a short lift, I'd look into getting the tubes pulled and relocated or get the "C's" cut and turned to get the pinion angle where you need it.
If you're using a tall lift, the pinion angle will be closer to ok but still need some shims to keep the castor where it should be.
If you're planning a short lift, I'd look into getting the tubes pulled and relocated or get the "C's" cut and turned to get the pinion angle where you need it.
The GM springs are 2.5" wide and it looks like they will fit your perch.
What are the diameters of the tubes? This looks like a simple project to get a D70 front from those drum braked closed knuckle fronts and cutting the ball end off to reweld Dedenbear "C's" on them to make open knuckles and disc brakes.
What are the diameters of the tubes? This looks like a simple project to get a D70 front from those drum braked closed knuckle fronts and cutting the ball end off to reweld Dedenbear "C's" on them to make open knuckles and disc brakes.
Out of curiosity:
Why use a D70 front? Even the open knuckle ones (like yours Clem) use D60 sized shafts (other than the 35 spline outers that so many of us swap to, which are technically OEM on a 70).
Yes, the axle tubes and ring and pinion are bigger. I've heard of people bending D60 tubes and I've seen a couple broken LP D60 ring and pinions. The D70 certainly has the advantage there (and hence, that's part of the reasoning for its higher load rating).
The stock D70 knuckles and tubes are bigger/stronger, that seems like the most attractive feature about the front open knuckle D70 IMO. Why use D60 c's, knuckles, etc.?
If you're pouring tons of money into this thing (long's birfields, crane knuckles, etc), why not use a hi-9 instead of the D70 center section? I bet the 9" ring and pinion setup is stronger than the D70, with almost 1" better clearance.
I'm not telling you that you made a poor choice, but rather I'm inquiring as to why you made the decision you made
Why use a D70 front? Even the open knuckle ones (like yours Clem) use D60 sized shafts (other than the 35 spline outers that so many of us swap to, which are technically OEM on a 70).
Yes, the axle tubes and ring and pinion are bigger. I've heard of people bending D60 tubes and I've seen a couple broken LP D60 ring and pinions. The D70 certainly has the advantage there (and hence, that's part of the reasoning for its higher load rating).
The stock D70 knuckles and tubes are bigger/stronger, that seems like the most attractive feature about the front open knuckle D70 IMO. Why use D60 c's, knuckles, etc.?
If you're pouring tons of money into this thing (long's birfields, crane knuckles, etc), why not use a hi-9 instead of the D70 center section? I bet the 9" ring and pinion setup is stronger than the D70, with almost 1" better clearance.
I'm not telling you that you made a poor choice, but rather I'm inquiring as to why you made the decision you made
'Nuff said!
I always heard that a high-pinion was stronger in a front axle, and a low-pinion was stronger in a rear axle.
High pinions only give you a way better angle. I dont think one is stronger than the other.I always heard that a high-pinion was stronger in a front axle, and a low-pinion was stronger in a rear axle.
I always heard that a high-pinion was stronger in a front axle, and a low-pinion was stronger in a rear axle.
This is true; HP axles are stronger in the front, LP axles are stronger in the rear.
Its because using a low pinion diff in the front (or a high pinion diff in the rear) drives the ring gear on the weaker (coast) side of the gear. This also makes the gearset weaker because as load is applied and the case deflects the gear contact moves towards the edge (weaker part of the gear), causing the edges of the teeth to break off.
On a low pinion rear axle or a high pinion front axle, as load is applied the gear contact moves lower on the teeth (the strongest part).
9" center sections (either high or low pinion) are very strong, they are stronger than just about every every diff we four wheelers deal with (with the exception of the FF 14 bolt and maybe the D80 and D135). Here are some comparisons done by true hi 9, there's lots of other info out thereon 9's (turns out they're pretty popular with the racing crowd
)
The true hi 9's are totally built and engineered from scratch, other than using stock 9" bearings.
Playing devil's advocate:
So why isn't hi-9 being produced by every major axle builder in the 4X4 world?
I don't know, cost probably
Because its relatively easy to find and stout in stock form. There is no 9" front axle, tons of people make hybrids using 9" center sections.
I didn't know that the hi-9 was around that long, after looking around a little there are several companies other than true hi-9 that make them.
If you go to the race track or to a rockcrawling competition you'll notice that more than half of the competitors are using 9" center sections.
You don't see many people in recreational rockcrawling use because they require work and fabrication. Most people just buy an axle and bolt it under their truck.
I'm running a 60/14 bolt, I would trade the two centersections for 9's in a hearbeat.
Money and down time. Replacing the center section and/or tubes would take a while and wheeling season is just starting up here.
I'm not trying to tell you that you're wrong for wanting to run a D70.
I suggested (really for other people, I'm sure you are going to run that 70) that since you were tearing it down that far (i.e. removing inner c's, etc.) it would be easy to just get something like this and then use all the D60 stuff from the inner c's on out.
Of course you will be one of the only people out there running an open knuckle Dana 70
