What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

My New Truck, need some drivetrain advice

W

WKC

Registered Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2006
Posts
19
Reaction score
0
Location
North Carolina
Well, I just got a K5 for a first car, and have been doing a lot of research on modest lifts for it. I want to to lift it between 4-6", and will run 35" tires, no bigger. It won't be a dedicated trail rig since it will be my daily driver, so the lift/tires, heavy duty bumpers, and a few Hella off-road lights will probably be the only add-ons, maybe some Aubern Limited-Slip/Locker Diffs. I have read a lot about U-Joints and axle shafts failing off-road on the K5's, especially if you run larger than 35" tires, but would like to get a first-hand perspective on the reliability of the vehicle's drivetrain. If I were to use the vehicle for normal daily driving, with the occasional weekend trail running, and some trailer pulling when necessary (but nothing of 4000 punds), what kinda stuff should I look at replacing or does anything need to be replaced that would possibly fail? Any advice would be great.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
You really need to use the search function. Those questions are answered every week.
Quick answer: Offroad design shackle flip for the rear, 4" Tuff country springs up front, extended brake lines, new shocks.
As far as the driveshaft/ujoint issues, make sure your ujoints are good( or better yet replace them) and if you wheel it, keep an extra. Unless you wheel it pretty hard, a ujoint will let you know it needs to be replaced way before it fails.
Lockers... not needed for a mostly street truck.
 
I would ditch the 10 bolts. Look for an older 3/4 ton truck to pull the axles off, then buy a locker for the rear. When you get the 14 bolt rear get a beefier driveshaft.
 
Leper said:
You really need to use the search function. Those questions are answered every week.
Lockers... not needed for a mostly street truck.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help guys. I did search the threads for answers, but I just wanted to make sure my exact questions got answered, and I'm still getting used to the site's navigation.

And as for the U-Joints, I was thinking about going for CTM's or Tom Woods Joints, they seem to be pretty solid.
 
If the 10-Bolts are in good condition, can I get away with running 35's? Assuming that I use a Limited-Slip in the back and open diff in the front?
 
That would be at the limit, but it can be done. Many people have. Tho I would search boneyards for an old 3/4 ton to grab axles off of.
 
10 bolts can live with 35's. Dont let anyone tell you they cann't. Just treat it kindly when offroad and it will do fine. Regear for the towing part. I have wheeled with people with over 40" tires and they never broke anything while taking it easy while offroading.
 
WKC said:
And as for the U-Joints, I was thinking about going for CTM's or Tom Woods Joints, they seem to be pretty solid.
Click to expand...

dont kill the budget on these. just some good spicer units will last. those are for hard core stuff. and spicers less maintance:wink1:
 
How difficult/time-consuming is an axle swap to 14-bolt rear and Dana 44 front? If I do this it will be my first axle swap. I think that the 10-Bolts will be fine for what I do, there is nothing to extreme in North Carolina other than the intermediate-difficult trails at Uwharrie. If I have problem with those than I will look further into the 14-bolt setup, I just want to keep my knowledge up and my options open.
 
You shouldnt have any problem at Uwharrie with 10 bolts and 35s unless you plan on climbing kodak. Just be easy on it....
 
Thanks a lot for the help you guys. I think I'll stick with the 10-bolts for now, and if they don't hold hold then I will buy some 14's.
 
Why would you put a lift and 35's on a daily driver? Buy a Honda Civic and turn that blazer into a wheeling machine.
 
wildmouse216 said:
Why would you put a lift and 35's on a daily driver? Buy a Honda Civic and turn that blazer into a wheeling machine.
Click to expand...
Lots of people drive ridiculous trucks as daily drivers. One of the local mechanics drives an '01 2500HD with 9" of lift and 39.5 tires, as a daily driver.
 
Well, I have tried the Search continuously and can still find no definitive answer to a few questions I still have. I know I'm resurrecting an old thread but i figured it would be better than starting a whole new one.

First, I've been reading a lot about driveline angles when lifting a K5, and it seems that 4" is about the max lift before you really have to start worrying about driveline angles, driveshaft lengths, u-joint stress. etc. First question is, will a 6" lift put too much stress on the driveline or would a 4" be better? Will I need to think about an SYE or axle shims or should a 4" lift be fine on the "angles"? Would a transfer case drop kit help?

Also. For wheels, what back-spacing should I use on a 15x10 wheel? Ive read that the stock back-spacing works quite well, but I can't find what it is.

Thanks for the help.
 
wildmouse216 said:
Why would you put a lift and 35's on a daily driver? Buy a Honda Civic and turn that blazer into a wheeling machine.
Click to expand...
Why would any body want to drive a truck with ****box pizza cutter tires I have one truck with smaller than 35" tires it's my ford superduty and it has 33x12.50-16.5's on it only because 35" rub the inner fender to much and I'm not gonna lift it or trim the fenders. oh and civics suck ass
 
The answer is ....... there is no definitive answer some trucks may require shimming and driveline mods with a 4 " lift probably not but some do. 6" lift and put driveline mods in your budget. Driveline shops around here charge about 50 buck to lengthen your driveshaft. You will probably have to shim the axle but not much. I will assume you have a 208 as you have front and rear 10bs. The only SYE is a hack and tap where you drill the outputshaft and tap it and put a flange on it. I say stay with the slip yoke. Don't lower the t-case you will only be running 35s you need all the clearance you can get. Most 15x10 wheels only come with a certain backspacing usually 3 7/8? Anyway right around there, this is fine for your truck. Let me also reiterate something that has been said with 10bs you will be fine as long as you are careful. If you get a locker or even a limited slip you can snap a rear 10b real quick if you like the skinny pedal. Last bit of advice when you go to order all these wonderful parts tell the company what you want to accomplish and the rest of the stuff you are putting on your truck. Call all the companies that you might buy products from before you buy and ask them what they think. Then take all that, all the info you gather from here and distill it down to some useable form and you will end up with a kick butt truck.:D Good luck
 
Also, would a 2" body lift require extending or modifying anything other than the Shift Linkages? To the tranny and t-case?
 
Body lift would require fan shroud modification, bumper relocation unless you like the bumpers to look retarded. Steering column might need to be extended, although thats easy..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom