I'm semi looking for one, I really like the the 3 with a 110lsa but I don't know how to pick the right one for me. I want it to sound like a coffee can with a few random bolts in it.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
My "Official" Stepside Restoration Thread and LS Swap 2021
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
PM sent
BTR seems to have a good following.
I noticed the "V2" cams all have considerably more lift, but still all stay around ~.550", which is probably fine for stock heads, there is minimal gains above that with stock LS heads. I think a lot of them only gain 3 - 5 cfm between .500-.600 lift, so you are only talking half of that possibly from .550 to .600. Although there is still something to be said about leaving the valve open longer, because even with the same duration and more lift, the duration at the lower lift number would be longer with the higher lift cam.
He also continually decreases LSA while increasing duration on the higher "stages", many manufactures leave LSA similar while increasing duration. Of course the the mroe aggressive the cam the higher stall converter you need as it loses the bottom end considerably. So if you are going to swap converters you can get your cackling idle and your performance with the right converter.
I also noticed he tests his cam down to 2300, but he stops showing the data below 3500 for the stock cam in the chart. I would think people would expect the stock cam to have more torque down there, it's not a surprise, no reason to hide it. I wish I could get data that low to show on some of my stuff.
If you want a rough idle, get a low LSA(108 or 110), and stick with a duration in your RPM range you want to play with, and make sure the converter matches. I can help if you want.
Last edited:
Wow this thread is perfect timing with lots of great info! I've just got to read it some more and soak it in. I'm in the middle of tearing apart a 6.0 for my truck. And would like to do much of the same work.(cam,springs,injectors,terminator,converter). Folkenheath do you sell cams also?
Yes I do, I can get almost any performance parts now. I'll send you a PM to not fill up Glenn's thread.
Baby steps. Stock harness in all its naked glory. Next step is to break out the LT1 Swaps Manual and start depinning and pulling wires.
Still making slow but steady progress on the harness where I can fit in the time 20mins here, 1hr there. I've got most of the uneeded wires pulled out and most others labeled. What I need to figure out is the low range signal wires and if they are necessary with a manual. If anyone knows, please reply, I'll be doing some googling as the LT1 Swaps Manual is geared for those keeping a computer controlled auto.
I also pulled the oil pan and the stock cam out. No sludge or debris in the pan and the stock cam is in good shape so that makes me happy that I don't need to replace any lifters, rockers, or even cam bearings... Yes I looked at my cam bearings and they don't look terrible so I got that going for me.
I also pulled the oil pan and the stock cam out. No sludge or debris in the pan and the stock cam is in good shape so that makes me happy that I don't need to replace any lifters, rockers, or even cam bearings... Yes I looked at my cam bearings and they don't look terrible so I got that going for me.
.....which is nice.
Martin
Martin
Heard that in my head as soon as I read it.
Should be fine without the low range ground wire, it's for the computer controlled trans to know when the tcase is in reduction mode. With a "man"ual it won't matter.
Small progress being made:
Bought a TBSS manifold and now test fitting the harness to it.
I'll need a different harness holder bracket to fit this intake anyone know what that's called?
Since this photo I swapped injector plugs from the GENIII Multec to the TBSS EV6 style. I still need to shorten and swap plugs for the map sensor but otherwise I can finish installing new wire loom for the rest of the harness. All the unused pins are pulled from the ECM and all unnecessary wires pulled from the harness. What's everyone doing for filling the empty ECM pins? I've been googling trying to find cavity plugs but I'm not really getting anywhere.
What are people's thoughts on the paint scheme? I'm thinking leave the block and heads bare with Chevy Orange for the oil pan, timing cover, valley cover, and valve covers. And black for the accessory drive bracket. I think I'm also going to spring for some billet coil brackets too because they aren't much money and honestly easier than repainting the stock ones.
Also how do you get the darn oil fill tube out of the valve cover? The thing is putting up a fight. I'd like to change the o ring in it as there was a bunch of oil around it but obviously that could be from sloppy people missing the tube when filling the oil...
Bought a TBSS manifold and now test fitting the harness to it.
I'll need a different harness holder bracket to fit this intake anyone know what that's called?
Since this photo I swapped injector plugs from the GENIII Multec to the TBSS EV6 style. I still need to shorten and swap plugs for the map sensor but otherwise I can finish installing new wire loom for the rest of the harness. All the unused pins are pulled from the ECM and all unnecessary wires pulled from the harness. What's everyone doing for filling the empty ECM pins? I've been googling trying to find cavity plugs but I'm not really getting anywhere.
What are people's thoughts on the paint scheme? I'm thinking leave the block and heads bare with Chevy Orange for the oil pan, timing cover, valley cover, and valve covers. And black for the accessory drive bracket. I think I'm also going to spring for some billet coil brackets too because they aren't much money and honestly easier than repainting the stock ones.
Also how do you get the darn oil fill tube out of the valve cover? The thing is putting up a fight. I'd like to change the o ring in it as there was a bunch of oil around it but obviously that could be from sloppy people missing the tube when filling the oil...
Have you seen the old valve covers cut out to cover the coils?
Martin
Martin
The oil filler tube twists out a partial turn exactly like the oil cap does, as in you could put the oil cap directly in the valve cover when you are done if you want.
My thoughts on paint, the entire thing is cast aluminum, I'd just leave it bare cast.
Before you buy the billet brackets, Holley has cast valve covers that eliminate the bracket completely, you just bolt the coils directly onto the cast in bosses, real clean no clutter. They offer them raw or in different colors and different heights.
Examples...
www.holley.com
www.holley.com
I could order a set with an ECU for you....
Here is how they look compared to
stock bracket...
Holley covers....
My thoughts on paint, the entire thing is cast aluminum, I'd just leave it bare cast.
Before you buy the billet brackets, Holley has cast valve covers that eliminate the bracket completely, you just bolt the coils directly onto the cast in bosses, real clean no clutter. They offer them raw or in different colors and different heights.
Examples...
Holley 241-88 LS Valve Covers - Natural Cast
Holley's cast aluminum valve covers for GM LS engines provide a fresh, refined look without the need to relocate the coils. There's no question the factory "coil on cover" design gives the LS that signature high-tech look, but the factory brackets and coil location leave room for improvement...
Holley 241-164 Tall LS Valve Covers - Factory Orange
Holley's tall LS valve covers are the latest addition to our extensive line of LS engine components that will add a custom touch to your engine bay and help you to stand out from the crowd. These valve covers were designed to add an additional 0.54" of internal clearance over factory height...
I could order a set with an ECU for you....
Here is how they look compared to
stock bracket...
Holley covers....
Last edited:
Those are nice makes me wish I didn't powder coat mine.
Cast aluminum looks great when new, but as you can see, the corrosion takes place over time and IMO it looks like crap. Paint all that raw aluminum w some Aluminum engine paint and do the valve covers, block and oil pan in Chevy Orange.
This is what I did, except I powder coated all the covers but put 3 coats of primer, 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear on the block.
You are correct, but the valve covers, block, and oil pan are also cast aluminum. Every single major piece on that engine except the plastic intake are cast aluminum.
I get you on the cast corroding over time, it turns white and funny colors. I don't dislike the orange, looks nice, but cheap paint usually turns funny colors on an engine over time anyway. I do like powder coat but that can be expensive.
Last edited:
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Why stick to the normal bare cast/orange/black?
You have a red interior, why not do some sort of a nice red/black combo?
Tie in the interior to the engine.
Done right it would look really nice and high end.
It's not like this truck is a Original survivor your returning to numbers matching.
Have some fun with it.
Also If you want a really good looking engine. Grab a cheap HVLP and go to town with some high end base clear, make it Shiney and make it pop!
You have been ranting and raving about a LS for years. Time to walk the walk and show that sucker off.
You have a red interior, why not do some sort of a nice red/black combo?
Tie in the interior to the engine.
Done right it would look really nice and high end.
It's not like this truck is a Original survivor your returning to numbers matching.
Have some fun with it.
Also If you want a really good looking engine. Grab a cheap HVLP and go to town with some high end base clear, make it Shiney and make it pop!
You have been ranting and raving about a LS for years. Time to walk the walk and show that sucker off.
Last edited:
I have a 1/2 quart of Eastwood engine paint in Chevy Orange that I painted my old 350 with 10 years ago and it still looks great. It's not a 2K but it can be used with a Urethane activator.
I did put a small wire wheel on my cordless drill and it cleaned up the chalky white aluminum on the oil pan and the lower part of the block. So using that to clean up the bare block seems like a viable option. I like the bare block idea to show off that it's an aluminum block because it's a little unique.
The Holley valve covers are nice but a little too expensive for my taste.
For alternative colors, I honestly like white engines that you see in the marine industry with either black or polished accents. But it's very hard to keep clean and I'm not sure I really want this in a classic truck.
For alternative colors, I honestly like white engines that you see in the marine industry with either black or polished accents. But it's very hard to keep clean and I'm not sure I really want this in a classic truck.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I was actually going to suggest white and black but figured everyone on here would say it's hard to keep clean.
