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My "Official" Stepside Restoration Thread and LS Swap 2021

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So way back ... 50 pages, you put some stuff on the frame to prevent rust, or so I thought. Did that stuff not work?
 
Jessie James said:
So way back ... 50 pages, you put some stuff on the frame to prevent rust, or so I thought. Did that stuff not work?
Click to expand...

ya eastwood rust coating stuff sucks. didn't last even an entire winter. after the first snow i already saw rust coming through.
 
9.5 SF conversion

I did this same conversion a few years ago. And I concluded it would have been easier and cheaper to buy a complete 6-lug assembly and weld on new spring perches. Oh well. Live and learn.

I used spacers just like you did to make up for the extra length. I also found that I had to shim the wheel bearings out 0.1in. If you don’t shim the bearings out the race surface of the axle shaft does not fully contact the length of the rollers. This will result in a very high stress concentration at the edge of the race surface and shorten the life of the bearing and shaft surface.

You can see some of the pics from by build here:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170383

I ground the ID of the shim down at the bottom to insure adequate oil reaches the bearings, though it is difficult to see this from the photos.

I’ve been running this setup for three years with no problems other than lots of mud and debris getting into the drums. The large gap from using spacers to relocate the backing plate allows some seriously large chunks of crud to get in there. My intent was to convert to disk, but that still hasn’t happened yet.

Chevy305 said:
Update:

The engine has sorta taken a back seat, or more or less just pushed over a little so I can concentrate on my 14bsf 6 lug conversion. I have been collecting the parts for this over the years and now I finally nutted up and bought the axel. I will definately need it too when I put some 400hp or so to it.

The axel I bought is a 86 14bsf out of a K20. I got factory drum backing plates and drums from an early 90's C2500. The axel shafts had to be ordered since the ones I grabbed were a 1/2" too short. :doah:Sooo close. Unfortunately there are no exact length 6 lug axel shafts for this conversion so either they are too short and won't work or stick out about a 1/2" over the factory 8 lug shafts. So thats where I am at now, my new axel shafts are a 1/2" too long and now I need to space the backing plates with some machined spacers that I have on order. So now the waiting is due to the spacers/bolts on special order along with the 1/2" wheel studs and lug nuts, and the fact that I still can't get this last wheel bearing out...

The part that is fustrating is that is was supposed to be a quick project and it has dragged out for almost 3 weeks now. But I have all new brakes, new pinion seal, crush sleave, and pinion bearings. Also it seems that my driveshaft bolts up to the yoke. I tested it on an old u joint and its a positive match so now conversion joints needed.
Click to expand...
 
loafer said:
I did this same conversion a few years ago. And I concluded it would have been easier and cheaper to buy a complete 6-lug assembly and weld on new spring perches. Oh well. Live and learn.

I used spacers just like you did to make up for the extra length. I also found that I had to shim the wheel bearings out 0.1in. If you don’t shim the bearings out the race surface of the axle shaft does not fully contact the length of the rollers. This will result in a very high stress concentration at the edge of the race surface and shorten the life of the bearing and shaft surface.

You can see some of the pics from by build here:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170383

I ground the ID of the shim down at the bottom to insure adequate oil reaches the bearings, though it is difficult to see this from the photos.

I’ve been running this setup for three years with no problems other than lots of mud and debris getting into the drums. The large gap from using spacers to relocate the backing plate allows some seriously large chunks of crud to get in there. My intent was to convert to disk, but that still hasn’t happened yet.
Click to expand...

Ya I agree, a newer axel would have been easier than all this parts swapping... oh well.

No I didn't shim the bearings. Can .1" make really enough of a difference?

I might fill the gap with something, dont know what but I'll figure something out.
 
Chevy305 said:
ya eastwood rust coating stuff sucks. didn't last even an entire winter. after the first snow i already saw rust coming through.
Click to expand...
coughtoldyacough:wink1:

Sounds exactly like what it did on my Tracker's wheels. One winter and rust was coming through.

I've used POR15, Chassis Saver, some other brand, and now have some Rust Bullet sitting at home and the Eastwood is the only one that turned out to be complete BS.:doah:
 
FWIW, I am pretty disappointed in POR15. I followed the directions very meticulously and it's peeling up from my floor boards. I'd try RustBullet next.
 
I had that problem with POR15 partially. In some places it stuck like it was there for life and in others it peeled at the edges. Maybe the solvent didn't get all the grease/grime? Dunno.
It is famous for shrinking and peeling at the edges I have since learned.

I got the encapsulator stuff with the Rust Bullet. Figured if I'm doing it I might as well do it right.
 
THat thing has a lot of rust all over. Good luck getting it all taken care of. I feel for you when it comes time to take replace the rear spring bushings. Those bolts look nasty.

I had the same crack at the pass shock mount on my Sub. Wonder if this is a commomn problem.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
coughtoldyacough:wink1:

Sounds exactly like what it did on my Tracker's wheels. One winter and rust was coming through.

I've used POR15, Chassis Saver, some other brand, and now have some Rust Bullet sitting at home and the Eastwood is the only one that turned out to be complete BS.:doah:
Click to expand...

So Whats your latest thoughts on frame coating/painting?:confused:
I was all ready to order the Chassis Saver for my K30 frame until I read this.
Its very rusty, and I plan to sandblast it first.
 
prairie said:
So Whats your latest thoughts on frame coating/painting?:confused:
I was all ready to order the Chassis Saver for my K30 frame until I read this.
Its very rusty, and I plan to sandblast it first.
Click to expand...
hi jack on/ if you're going to sandblast it anyways, then go with a good epoxy primer, and a nice topcoat \hi jack off :p:
 
prairie said:
So Whats your latest thoughts on frame coating/painting?:confused:
I was all ready to order the Chassis Saver for my K30 frame until I read this.
Its very rusty, and I plan to sandblast it first.
Click to expand...


Rust Bullet, the one that advertises here, seems to be the universal favorite. I can't say as I've used it but I intend to and I don't recall seeing anyone on here who has used it speak poorly of it. Seems like everyone is happy with it and that's why I bought it.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Rust Bullet, the one that advertises here, seems to be the universal favorite. I can't say as I've used it but I intend to and I don't recall seeing anyone on here who has used it speak poorly of it. Seems like everyone is happy with it and that's why I bought it.
Click to expand...

Ya thats why I got it. It seems to be really tough. I dont see anything rusting for quite a while with that stuff applied propperly. Time will tell though. Also I still had a quart of the eastwood chassis top coat that I sprayed onto the axel. After 3 heavy coats, the stuff is just rubbing right off the rust bullet. I am very displeased with easwood's chassis coat. The stuff looks awsome but doesn't last at all. Honestly I think rustoleum could have done an at least an equally satisfactory job for less than $20.

But UPDATE!

Yesterday I had no classes so I went home and my roomate and I installed my new 14bsf. It looks sooo badass under there :bow: Its about 2" wider and I love the extra track width. Can't wait to put the bed on and see how it looks all together. Sorry no pics, forgot the camera... :doah:
 
This has been a great thread! Very nice work. I can see the improvement in your welding over the years. I especially like the gauges. Keep up the good work. :waytogo:
 
Im starting to think I should have gone with the SF 14 bolt, hell I have one even:doah:sure would have been nice not having to get new wheels and all that crap. Im sure Ill never use the 14 bolt to its full floating potential but oh well.
 
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