Makes it easy to spot oil leaks though.
CK5
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My "Official" Stepside Restoration Thread and LS Swap 2021
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
Big shout out to @folkenheath for helping guide me on my cam shaft choice. I would have never considered Howard's Cams but they literally have so many different grinds. Heath helped me narrow in on 190235-14. It's a 216/224 with .551/.551 lift and 114 LSA. Shoot him a PM and he'll get you set up just right.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-190235-14
Best of all I got it delivered just before my birthday this weekend and I was able to spend a whole day in the garage to install it.
Unfortunately the new cam retainer plate I got is different from the original and doesn't have countersunk bolt holes. The bolt heads still clear the timing chain and sprocket but I didn't want to leave it like that so I have a genuine GM one coming.
I started installing the upgraded Howard's valve springs as well. # 98113
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-190235-14
Best of all I got it delivered just before my birthday this weekend and I was able to spend a whole day in the garage to install it.
Unfortunately the new cam retainer plate I got is different from the original and doesn't have countersunk bolt holes. The bolt heads still clear the timing chain and sprocket but I didn't want to leave it like that so I have a genuine GM one coming.
I started installing the upgraded Howard's valve springs as well. # 98113
I also worked on getting the block fully wiped down, degreased, and wire brushed all the oxidation off it. I also took a lot of time to prep the valve covers, valley cover, and oil pan for paint. I used a flap disk to remove some ugly casting flash and then shot some zinc on it:
The paint I'm using is the same can of Eastwood Ceramic Engine Paint that I used on my original 350 that I built 11 years ago. It doesn't require primer but I chose to do a light coat of zinc to give it a little more bite. The oil pan and timing cover were zinc coated a few days ago, the valve covers were coated this morning and while the valve covers were dry, I don't think the zinc was fully cured as the engine paint kept cringing in a few spots no matter how many times I touched it up through the afternoon. I'll have to give it a few days for everything to cure and then try to touch up those spots.
The paint I'm using is the same can of Eastwood Ceramic Engine Paint that I used on my original 350 that I built 11 years ago. It doesn't require primer but I chose to do a light coat of zinc to give it a little more bite. The oil pan and timing cover were zinc coated a few days ago, the valve covers were coated this morning and while the valve covers were dry, I don't think the zinc was fully cured as the engine paint kept cringing in a few spots no matter how many times I touched it up through the afternoon. I'll have to give it a few days for everything to cure and then try to touch up those spots.
Looking good! Bummer on the fish eyes, I'm sure you'll get it fixed up.
So just for future reference, what cam retainer plate did you buy that you didn't like? It didn't come with button head bolts or anything?
I think that cam will work a lot better for your application than the Summit cam. It has more advance built in than most of the summit cams and a wider LSA, both which may help when you let go of the clutch at low throttle. It also has the sweet spot of lift for your setup instead of just two choices.
So just for future reference, what cam retainer plate did you buy that you didn't like? It didn't come with button head bolts or anything?
I think that cam will work a lot better for your application than the Summit cam. It has more advance built in than most of the summit cams and a wider LSA, both which may help when you let go of the clutch at low throttle. It also has the sweet spot of lift for your setup instead of just two choices.
The retainer plate came with a Mahle lower engine gasket set. (Think like timing cover down)
I actually learned that there's 2 cam plate designs. One is the countersunk style like my engine came with and the other is the flat style. From based on a little googling the countersunk style is "newer" but can be interchanged if you use the right bolts.
Thanks for expanding on how we arrived at my cam choice. It came down to the off idle letting out the clutch response combined with reasonable duration and lift.
Got the new retainer plate in and got it installed. I went through the oil pump pressure relief valve and it was in good shape so I put the oil pump back together and reinstalled it. I figured at this point no sense in not bolting on my newly painted covers. 
What's everyone's thoughts on the paint scheme? And should I paint the block?
I still need to finish swapping the valve springs and at some point I'll need to get the engine off the stand to do the rear cover seal and rear main seal. Then the engine can be fully sealed up and ready for wiring.
What's everyone's thoughts on the paint scheme? And should I paint the block?
I still need to finish swapping the valve springs and at some point I'll need to get the engine off the stand to do the rear cover seal and rear main seal. Then the engine can be fully sealed up and ready for wiring.
I would paint the block, and possibly the heads.
Martin
Martin
agreed.
I kind of like it, opposite of what I did.
I totally forgot about the different cam retainer plates. Glad I didn't order one yet, I'll have to pull mine apart and see what it is.
I totally forgot about the different cam retainer plates. Glad I didn't order one yet, I'll have to pull mine apart and see what it is.
Thats strange they have ones without a countersunk seat for the screw head? I like the engine but maybe im biased because i painted mine the same haha.
I did the rear seals with it on the stand... not the greatest but was able to be done with a combo of sockets, wrenches, and nimble little fingers ha
I did the rear seals with it on the stand... not the greatest but was able to be done with a combo of sockets, wrenches, and nimble little fingers ha
Well what's everyone think for a block color? Bare, aluminum color paint, Chevy Orange, or black?
Orange.
Martin
Martin
Valve train finished and valve covers bolted on.
Also I found out the hard way that GM changed the oil filter threads between GEN III and GEN IV and apparently this '05 has been swapped to the GEN IV threads somewhere along the line. I found that out the hard way by filling a filter designated for this year and engine and it not fitting... Oh well at least this engine and my '12 Silverado will use the same filter so I got that going for me which is nice.
Also I found out the hard way that GM changed the oil filter threads between GEN III and GEN IV and apparently this '05 has been swapped to the GEN IV threads somewhere along the line. I found that out the hard way by filling a filter designated for this year and engine and it not fitting... Oh well at least this engine and my '12 Silverado will use the same filter so I got that going for me which is nice.
When you going to stab it? Not sure if you have said it but what ecm are you running? Judging from previous posts of yours, you will be doing a gm and running efilive?
Ya I'll be doing the stock P59 PCM with using my HP Tuners. The wiring harness is almost done at this point, just need to finish looming it and wire up my aux fuse/relay panel. I'm hoping to get it installed in the next month.
That’s too hard to keep clean.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I'm not the one cleaning it! Lol.
Paint the block Glenn, that block looks like shit. Silver or a natural color aluminum.
I think it looks like aluminum, sh!t looks more brownish in color.
Update on my budget:
Currently $2991 into this.
That includes the swap mounts, headers, clutch and flywheel, new starter, new power steering pump and all the wiring bits.
We can add another $100 for the HP tuners license and $180 for a wide band O2, plus fluids. That puts me at roughly $3300 for everything needed to get it running.
That's more than I envisioned but I spent about $400 to do the TBSS intake swap, I busted the stud off the solenoid for the starter so I had to replace that, and the power steering pump was leaking so I wanted to replace it. Plus I'm doing an LS3 water pump which is more expensive than a truck water pump but it eliminates the ugly ass 3 mile long truck upper radiator hose.
Currently $2991 into this.
That includes the swap mounts, headers, clutch and flywheel, new starter, new power steering pump and all the wiring bits.
We can add another $100 for the HP tuners license and $180 for a wide band O2, plus fluids. That puts me at roughly $3300 for everything needed to get it running.
That's more than I envisioned but I spent about $400 to do the TBSS intake swap, I busted the stud off the solenoid for the starter so I had to replace that, and the power steering pump was leaking so I wanted to replace it. Plus I'm doing an LS3 water pump which is more expensive than a truck water pump but it eliminates the ugly ass 3 mile long truck upper radiator hose.
LS swaps are cheap they say...
I've come to the realization, most who keep that myth going are the ones that haven't done one. It's possible to go cheaper if you don't get new accessories like the power steering pump, water pump, better intake, and stick with stock manifolds. I spent a little less than you have so far when I did my 5.3, but the engine was free and I traded for the harness/ecm. But mine lacked any bolt-on parts so I had to buy coils and brackets, intake with injectors and fuel rail, manifolds, accessory brackets, power steering pump, alternator, flex plate.
Back to the build. Looking great so far. The preparation you are going through now is going to pay off at the install. Keep it up.
