CK5
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My Re-Re Build Thread.....Drivetrain parts!!

I wish there was one. I can't find anything newer than an 87. If they had one, it would be around $100 though.Im sure your checkin CL right. Dumb question. I'm checkin it here like 7 times a day lookin for stuff.
 
Unless it's gonna be hardcore, why not use a 208? Plenty of pass drop 32 spline 208's out there...
 
Unless it's gonna be hardcore, why not use a 208? Plenty of pass drop 32 spline 208's out there...
Define hardcore. I am not completely dead set on a 241, however it beats a 208 hands down. Ideally a 205 is what I am searching for. However a 32 spline 6 bolt round pattern eludes me. I have been looking at North West Fab's figure 8 to round 6 bolt conversion plate with a 32 spline input. Then again I have a TH400 version NP203 that I could re drill the face of like someone else I know and mount on the thing as well with a few other goodies.
 
Aside from the SYE thing the 208 is damn near the same T-case as the 241 Corey. The low range is slightly less low at 2.61:1 vs the 241's 2.72:1. Even the SYE thing can be done with a 208, but it does require finding a dodge 208 and using the rear half of the case and a few other bits to make it work.

You'd want a beefy skid plate under either of them.

Or re-drill the 203 and splurge a little for a doubler. Then the 205 bolts up nicely. :pimp:

Or put up a want ad for a 241 here and see what happens.

Or trade that GM 60F for a Ford hi pinion 60 and keep the case you have, and the bell...Going driver's drop with the Ford front end actually solves quite a few issues. Any money extra you might spend getting the hi pinion ford D60 you'd save by not having to buy an aftermarket bell and another T-case.
 
LOL...just pointing out options for ya.

Did I mention i have a pass drop 241 here? 27 spline and VSS, and it's currently in my Blazer, but it is a pass drop 241. I probably won't use it in the long run.
 
Oh yeah, you prolly already know but if you can it'd sure be a good idea to chuck a 4911 pump on that and get rid of the computer bullsh1t...you really don't want to mess with all that PMD crapola. One 12v wire is much better.

Try Tim at www.accuratediesel.com
 
Yup well aware Brother. Going all mechanical, DB2-4911 pump and new injector lines. Looking for a 82+ 6.2 engine wiring harness too.
 
Hey Corey, glad to see you back at it :waytogo: I've been in summer hibernation on my build as well :doah: I'm sure shipping would kill it, but, I have seen quite a few 241's on CL here lately for cheap.
Should be a great setup you've got when it's all together :waytogo:
 
i've got a pass drop 241 and 208. the 241 is coming out of the suburban this week. i would do $100 + shipping for it. let me know if your interested. i am in rifle, colorado
 
Not much the last few days. However I did go back and took another look at the K30 parts truck and got the marker and turn signal lights off it, they were in perfect shape. Then I grabbed the dash pad, it is mint condition with zero cracks. Just an ugly light blue, but I will dye it gray like I did the door panels. I also grabbed the instrument cluster bezel, again mint condition and unmolested.
 
Yesterday I got the new taillights installed and the grill/lights all complete. I also stripped, cleaned and primed the center section and tubes on the D60.

I have the 6.5/NV4500 on a home made stand I found. Problem is it cant move. So I went to Harbor Freight and got four casters rated at 350lbs each. So 1400lbs, right? I attached them to the stand and smashed the piss out of my finger and thumb in the process. I started pushing the thing to move it across the shop and one of the cocksucking cheap ass casters just snapped. Was I ever pissed the fock off! I had to sit down and have me a dip and cool off. After a bit of sitting there looking at my K5 that I have not taken out on the road in like 8 years, I just asked myself WTF am I doing. Why am I not driving this thing yet, I don't even remember what it's like to drive it. So I really started thinking about what it is that's stopping me. Do I want to have it down for a longer period of time while I do the diesel conversion, and spend a butt load of money. These were all questions staring me in the face. I had to be honest with myself and sort through the BS. So I changed directions, so to speak. Do I want to do the 6.5/NV4500 combo? Yes, but later down the road, after I have collected all the correct parts. Right now I have a perfectly running rebuilt 350 with new heads I put in a few years ago that is in tip top shape. It's got a new Q-jet, distributor with cap plugs and wires. All fluids are fresh. The TH350 only needs a pan gasket and while I'm at it a fluid and filter change. The rims are new and the 35's have 95% tread left on them. Other than two emblems the exterior is done. On the interior I just need to dye the the dash pad and reassemble the dash components. Then get a new carpet. I want the seats recovered, but in the mean time some seat covers will suffice. Then I can put some insurance on it and take it off the non-op and drive it, which is really what I want to do.

I can still do all the stuff I want to do but in the mean time I want to drive it, and it's just a few things from stopping me. I am gonna do the conversion, but that will be later. I am gonna stick the D60 in it this winter, and I am gonna grind the calipers and run the 15's. First though I am gonna get all the parts for cross over steering and stick it all in in one day. Right now the 8 lug 44 works fine to just drive it, which is what I really want to do.
 
good.

mine isn't much to look at currently, but I still drive it now and then...and keep it in driveable shape.
 
good.

mine isn't much to look at currently, but I still drive it now and then...and keep it in driveable shape.
Yeah I had to be honest with myself and figure out what I really wanted, and driving it is the #1 thing in my book. I have also made the decision to go back to drum brakes on the rear. I never could sort out the spongy pedal. The weight savings and cool factor just don't add up to justify the hassle. The drums will work perfect for me and parking brake issue is solved. They will be the 11.5" drums rather than massive over weight 13" drums. Yeah they wont be disc, but it will be a big improvement over the 1/2 drums, especially combined D60 fronts. To me it makes sense and parts are at any parts house in the country.
 
the smaller drums do work good under a K5, the bigger ones are just way too much brake.

I like Boondocks dual caliper rear set-up, I think it's pretty promising...aside from the fact that it no longer saves any weight whatsoever.

If you actually drive or wheel your K5 you'll be in a very small club of people...the vast majority here are building, and rebuilding, and giving up and parting or selling them. 10 years ago, the majority were driving and wheeling them...and only a few were 'building'.

Crazy how that has changed.
 
the smaller drums do work good under a K5, the bigger ones are just way too much brake.

I like Boondocks dual caliper rear set-up, I think it's pretty promising...aside from the fact that it no longer saves any weight whatsoever.

If you actually drive or wheel your K5 you'll be in a very small club of people...the vast majority here are building, and rebuilding, and giving up and parting or selling them. 10 years ago, the majority were driving and wheeling them...and only a few were 'building'.

Crazy how that has changed.
Boondocks brakes are cool. Cost isn't. Having all the parts with out spending a dime to do the 11.5 drums is ubber cool in my book.

Yes I do remember when we used to all post up wheeling pics, now it's parts pics. Not cool. I'll be happy to just drive it down the road much less wheel it. Hell I'll be tickled focking pink shifting the 203 into low range.
 
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