I'm in, I have a 33 x 53 and it works but I want to add a lean to along the back side and extend one end for covered storage. The previous owner built the odd size because it was replacing an existing garage of the same size.
CK5
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gonefishin
1/2 ton status
Man this thing is filling up quick. I brought the blazer in to do some work on it. Now that i have my white project truck, the blazer, boat, and my diesel in here it is really starting to look small.
The picture of the corner with the lawnmower in it is where I’m putting my tool boxes and either 2 work benches or 1 large one. The work bench will probably be in a L shape in the corner. I’m wanting about 15-20’ of workbench.
I still don’t have power out here. I ran an extension cord temporarily.
I’m having a hard time putting the boat in the right place by myself. I have to get out several times and check how far I am away from the walls... anyone ever put masking tape or something on the floor to mark the exact spot to put a trailer? Or anything else I should consider using?
The picture of the corner with the lawnmower in it is where I’m putting my tool boxes and either 2 work benches or 1 large one. The work bench will probably be in a L shape in the corner. I’m wanting about 15-20’ of workbench.
I still don’t have power out here. I ran an extension cord temporarily.
I’m having a hard time putting the boat in the right place by myself. I have to get out several times and check how far I am away from the walls... anyone ever put masking tape or something on the floor to mark the exact spot to put a trailer? Or anything else I should consider using?
I have 2 of these. Work great. No jack needed. Slide under the tires and jack them up with tour foot. Roll easy. Easy to control. And yes, mark the floor once you figure out where you want it. I did paint in the last shop.
https://www.harborfreight.com/mater...ty-vehicle-positioning-wheel-dolly-61917.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/mater...ty-vehicle-positioning-wheel-dolly-61917.html
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
Has anyone heard of chi doors? I just got a quote for 3 doors installed 5200 with no openers. Prices have went up big time since corona...
they are model 3285. Insulated steel back doors. 2 10x12 and 1 12x12
they are model 3285. Insulated steel back doors. 2 10x12 and 1 12x12
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Man, look at them dirt hooks on that blazer.
What kinda tires are those?
What kinda tires are those?
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gonefishin
1/2 ton status
haha yea those are my axle breakers. Stock d60 shafts don’t like them very much.
I believe they are titan brand. Size is 18.4 16.1. They are about 18” wide and 44-46” tall depending on how much air is in them. I put them on cheap 10” wide 16” wheels.
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
Wire showed up so i can finally work towards getting power out there.
Also I changed to overhead door brand doors. The other dealer was less than reliable on getting back to me after numerous phone calls and emails. Their customer service is horrible.
so I ordered model 426 doors and they should be installed in about 3 weeks. I am waiting on openers until I build up the bank account again.
also I hung 1 shop light up to see how bright it is. Picture doesn’t do it justice. I could see in every corner of the shop with just 1 on. I bought 20 to put up lol. My door guy asked me if i was planning to wear sun glasses with 20 of them lol.
Also I changed to overhead door brand doors. The other dealer was less than reliable on getting back to me after numerous phone calls and emails. Their customer service is horrible.
so I ordered model 426 doors and they should be installed in about 3 weeks. I am waiting on openers until I build up the bank account again.
also I hung 1 shop light up to see how bright it is. Picture doesn’t do it justice. I could see in every corner of the shop with just 1 on. I bought 20 to put up lol. My door guy asked me if i was planning to wear sun glasses with 20 of them lol.
You can never have to many lights.
mind me asking what kind of light that is? i need to redo mine
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
https://www.samsclub.com/p/honeywell-5000-linkable-led-shop-light/prod24750364
they had them on sale for 14.99 each and got 20. They definitely aren’t high end lights, but will do everything i need, especially with that many of them.
they had them on sale for 14.99 each and got 20. They definitely aren’t high end lights, but will do everything i need, especially with that many of them.
thanks, those are perfect for my situation as the existing lights are already off outlets anyway. i'm getting em
Nice shop! 
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
Guess who is finally getting doors? Yup meeee!!!
I could only afford 1 opener for now.... it’s going on the 12x12 door which will be the most used one anyway.
I’m excited, and I started moving my tools in there finally now that I’ll be able to lock it up.
I started buying electrical stuff for it too so i can start wiring it up... I decided against emt because I don’t want to deal with all the bends, and trying to pull wire by myself... I priced that armored cable and it is very close in price to running thhn inside emt that I can’t justify running emt. Emt would look better in my opinion, but this armored cable will be so much easier to run and actually on my lighting circuits (14 gauge) will be cheaper by a fairly good amount.. the 10 gauge armored cable will be more expensive than running emt, but the 12 gauge for all my 20 amp plugs is basically the same price. Especially by the time you figure in all the fittings for emt...
One question does anyone know anything about clamps that don’t require any drilling to mount the flexible armored cable to my beams? I couldn’t find any at Home Depot or lowes in my area... everything required drilling. I have to go up and over the center of the shop with about 6-7 circuits and want it to look as neat as possible...
I could only afford 1 opener for now.... it’s going on the 12x12 door which will be the most used one anyway.
I’m excited, and I started moving my tools in there finally now that I’ll be able to lock it up.
I started buying electrical stuff for it too so i can start wiring it up... I decided against emt because I don’t want to deal with all the bends, and trying to pull wire by myself... I priced that armored cable and it is very close in price to running thhn inside emt that I can’t justify running emt. Emt would look better in my opinion, but this armored cable will be so much easier to run and actually on my lighting circuits (14 gauge) will be cheaper by a fairly good amount.. the 10 gauge armored cable will be more expensive than running emt, but the 12 gauge for all my 20 amp plugs is basically the same price. Especially by the time you figure in all the fittings for emt...
One question does anyone know anything about clamps that don’t require any drilling to mount the flexible armored cable to my beams? I couldn’t find any at Home Depot or lowes in my area... everything required drilling. I have to go up and over the center of the shop with about 6-7 circuits and want it to look as neat as possible...
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
Well they finished the doors and I think they turned out great! I need to start on the work benches.
I pulled the first engine in there too. I’m doing an engine swap for a friend of mine and I’m getting a good running 5.3 out of the deal. Hung it from the center beam. And I made a huge mess on my new concrete....
I tried to use my quincy air compressor and the motor let some magic smoke out. Hopefully the motor isn’t ruined. The starting capacitor leaked the fluid out and I’m hoping that I can just replace it and not the whole motor... I’ll put a couple pictures here of the windings.
I pulled the first engine in there too. I’m doing an engine swap for a friend of mine and I’m getting a good running 5.3 out of the deal. Hung it from the center beam. And I made a huge mess on my new concrete....
I tried to use my quincy air compressor and the motor let some magic smoke out. Hopefully the motor isn’t ruined. The starting capacitor leaked the fluid out and I’m hoping that I can just replace it and not the whole motor... I’ll put a couple pictures here of the windings.
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
So this is what I’ve been doing all day. I rented an excavator and dug the trench 170ish feet from the shop to the pole.
apparently i have a worse gopher problem than I thought... I dug the trench 3’ deep and loaded the excavator and took it back this afternoon. When i got back the damn gophers filled in about 10’ halfway back up. And several smaller sections along the 170’. I guess I made them mad this morning about 8am i shot 1 with the 12 gauge that had his head out of the ground.
But I should have power turned on in the shop by tomorrow afternoon.
apparently i have a worse gopher problem than I thought... I dug the trench 3’ deep and loaded the excavator and took it back this afternoon. When i got back the damn gophers filled in about 10’ halfway back up. And several smaller sections along the 170’. I guess I made them mad this morning about 8am i shot 1 with the 12 gauge that had his head out of the ground.
But I should have power turned on in the shop by tomorrow afternoon.
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
Well the pouring down rain has stopped me from working on the electrical. I have the breaker box inside the shop all wired up and installed some receptacles. I just need to finish hooking up everything at the meter pole.
I have a question for anyone that has installed a wood heater. I am going to go through the wall with the stove pipe. I have regular r panel tin. I have the double wall insulated pipe and the through the wall kit with the flashing. How do you seal it around the ribs in the tin inside and out??
I have a question for anyone that has installed a wood heater. I am going to go through the wall with the stove pipe. I have regular r panel tin. I have the double wall insulated pipe and the through the wall kit with the flashing. How do you seal it around the ribs in the tin inside and out??
Are you insuring the building and contents? Most will not insure a building with a wood stove and parked vehicles. Heat must be able to be turned off when you walk out. I got screwed on this in my Colorado shop.
But a gas water heater in your garage in the house is ok. Go figure.
But a gas water heater in your garage in the house is ok. Go figure.
I put a wood stove in my quonset garage and wished I had saw the similar building on display at a state fair that had one first..
I cut a hole in the side of the building for the stove pipe (actually two,one right above the other,as I had found a used hot air oil furnace that needed to be vented)---I cut the wall arch just below a seam where two panels overlapped,that allowed me to shove a piece if sheet metal in between the panels and bend it outward,to make a deflector for rain water...
I learned the better ways to do it were to not cut the hole on the flat side of the arch,if I had cut the angled "sides" instead I'd have had a lot less water,as rain flows right down the center flat section of the arch like a river--but overall,the amount of water that actually gets in is not much...and a good hi-temp RTV would seal around the stove pipe if I were that concerned about it..
The building at the fair like mine simply had stove pipe running straight up all the way to near the peak,and they cut the angled part of the arch to pass thru it...this provided a lot more heat,coming off the length of stove pipe..my method of running the pipe out the side of the building with only one 90 degree elbow and maybe 2 feet of pipe before it exits doesn't allow for you to get any real heat off the pipe itself,which is often as much or more than the stove throws off..
I'd look into all the local codes and insurance regs too..my install is probably "illegal",but when I put the building up in 1992 the building inspector only asked if I had a permit for a wood stove,and I said "yes--but for the two in the house,not for the garage"..he said that was no problem,that covered it (then,maybe not now!).
He said to "put the stove up high as possible,that way vapors from any leaking fuel wouldn't be as likely to get sucked into the stove and possibly flash and start a fire..my barrel stove has always just sat on its legs right on the slab,its only about a foot off the slab..I never had a problem,but I don't leave anything leaking fuel in the garage to begin with..and boot out anything that does if I plan on using the stove..
I cut a hole in the side of the building for the stove pipe (actually two,one right above the other,as I had found a used hot air oil furnace that needed to be vented)---I cut the wall arch just below a seam where two panels overlapped,that allowed me to shove a piece if sheet metal in between the panels and bend it outward,to make a deflector for rain water...
I learned the better ways to do it were to not cut the hole on the flat side of the arch,if I had cut the angled "sides" instead I'd have had a lot less water,as rain flows right down the center flat section of the arch like a river--but overall,the amount of water that actually gets in is not much...and a good hi-temp RTV would seal around the stove pipe if I were that concerned about it..
The building at the fair like mine simply had stove pipe running straight up all the way to near the peak,and they cut the angled part of the arch to pass thru it...this provided a lot more heat,coming off the length of stove pipe..my method of running the pipe out the side of the building with only one 90 degree elbow and maybe 2 feet of pipe before it exits doesn't allow for you to get any real heat off the pipe itself,which is often as much or more than the stove throws off..
I'd look into all the local codes and insurance regs too..my install is probably "illegal",but when I put the building up in 1992 the building inspector only asked if I had a permit for a wood stove,and I said "yes--but for the two in the house,not for the garage"..he said that was no problem,that covered it (then,maybe not now!).
He said to "put the stove up high as possible,that way vapors from any leaking fuel wouldn't be as likely to get sucked into the stove and possibly flash and start a fire..my barrel stove has always just sat on its legs right on the slab,its only about a foot off the slab..I never had a problem,but I don't leave anything leaking fuel in the garage to begin with..and boot out anything that does if I plan on using the stove..
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
I was planning to insure it, but I am putting the stove in no matter what... if they say no to insurance I don’t really care. I paid cash for it and don’t require insurance... it’s a metal shop a fire is probably the last thing I worry about happening to it. Maybe they will insure it and exclude fire damage...
I’m mostly wanting it to seal tight and not leak water. I don’t want air escaping around it, especially in the summer time while running the ac...
I’m mostly wanting it to seal tight and not leak water. I don’t want air escaping around it, especially in the summer time while running the ac...
