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Need Diagnosis Shop in Colo Springs....More Truck Vibration!

were both these pictures taken at the same time without moving the truck. If so it looks like the u joints
are out of alignment.
Yes, both taken at the same time with no truck movement between picture shots. This is how the driveline shop gave it to me. Are you saying that the front and back have to be identical (or in phase/parallel with each other?)
 
Another thing to check for--if the exhaust pipes touch the frame or body anywhere,that'll transmit a heavy vibration at certain RPM's...
I recently replaced the front pipes on my diesel,and man,with one touching the frame just slightly on the right side,it sounded like I had installed solid steel engine mounts!..I had to heat the pipe up and pry it away to gain 1/2" of clearance..

A van a friend had sounded like it needed a rear end,it had what seemed to be noisy pinion bearings--the ring & pinion looked good,no excess backlash,so he replaced the pinion and diff carrier bearings--and it sounded exactly the same..it was like a high pitched whirring noise with a grinding vibration..

Only other thing he had done to the van was replace the rear leaf springs,and he did remember there was some kind of plastic or teflon "shim" between the spring pads on the axle tubes and the springs..
He decided to go through the agony of taking the u-bolts back off,and installed some new ones from a spring shop--and ta-da,the noise vanished !...

Strangely, a new exhaust system...correct. Originally had Midas do it but they pretty much hacked it up and didn't look very good at all. And on top of that, they had the engine downpipes (just before the cat) touching the front part of the frame. I told them that was terrible and just give me my money back. He said....."OK".

I then went to Amazon and bought a Flowmaster Cat back system for our specific truck (for the same price as Midas's muffler install). Looks a lot better now and not touching the frame anywhere. So I don't think it's the vibration.
 
Yes, both taken at the same time with no truck movement between picture shots. This is how the driveline shop gave it to me. Are you saying that the front and back have to be identical (or in phase/parallel with each other?)
yes the have to exactly the same or it is out of phase and will cause vivarations
 
So, do you think I can take it apart at the slip spleen, rotate it to get in phase, and put it back together?
Good catch frankin5.
Yes, pull the straps off at the rear diff, unscrew the dust keeper on the slip yoke and clock the yoke so that the u joint caps line up with each other. Skunked posted a drawing on the first page showing the end result.
 
So I got home and crawled underneath the truck. I looked at the drive shaft and I think it was just the angle. It looks like the u joints are parallel. I also checked with an angle finder.....both joints, and they were equal so I think the drive shaft is an alignment properly.

Next I took the drive shaft off of the t-case and brought the truck up to 65 and 75 mph sitting still in garage. I did feel some vibration with the drive shaft off around 65. So it may be possible some bearings or something else in tcase tranny or engine.

Also the front driveshaft is still removed and gone so not in the equation.
 
I will add, because the drive shaft is off the vibration is not as intense however I think the drive shaft is probably amplifying the vibration when it's connected.
 
A little update:
I called JB Conversions to see if I could get the part number for the output bearing so I could buy one locally at Napa. Told him it was probably a really long shot, but by replacing, I could at least eliminate that part for sure. He said that it was usually around a $50 bearing and said, if I had a few days, he would just go ahead and send me out a new bearing free of charge! Wow, can't believe it and really isn't his problem.

He said that the bearing has to be lightly sanded or something to make it fit properly and rather than me going through all that, he would just send me a new one. He said, if it works great! If not, just put it on the shelf as a backup.

Must say, that's great service right there for JB Conversions. Thanks!

I'll see if it has any affect next week when I get it.....
 
Not sure thats a worry.

Call this guy, he's in Elizabeth, builds difs and tcases. Reasonable rates
Aaron 303-564-6866
 
I had one more ditch effort by replacing the output bearing on the t-case. Got it in yesterday and took it for a test drive.....vibration still there. :mad:

I'm going to try and bring it in to a shop early this week and just pose a few questions and feel them out. Appreciate the info in Elizabeth Bent72, but I don't think I want to drive it that far yet. I'll see how it goes down her first. But I'll keep him in mind, thanks!
 
Update:

Took the truck into a local shop off of Filmore. His website showed pics of K5's, nice exhaust work, and a lot of good feedback so I thought I'd give it a shot. We went out yesterday onto the freeway and took it for a 5 mile trip.

Basically, his conclusion...don't know for certain any specific thing. Really is a needle in a haystack really. He looked at all the work I've done, axles, CV driveshaft, motor mounts, SYE, driveline angles, etc and basically said I've done all the right things to eliminate as much as possible.

He did ask about the engine and who re-built it. I have no idea and very well could be a red-neck type of install. He thought there may be a chance of the harmonic balancer, maybe a bent torque converter, damaged flywheel as possible sources. But that gets expensive and just guessing. Bottom line, he said it wasn't all that bad to him. His K5 vibrated much more than mine and he drove it for 5 years. Should I worry about it or worry that my girls drive it....he saw no issues at all and would not hesitate in it's safety! So that's good!

The only next step he suggested would be re-install the front driveshaft, remove the rear and then VERY CAREFULLY, test it out on highway to see if it is indeed forward of the driveshaft.

So, nothing earth shattering at the moment. Just a few more small guesses. Dang.
 
I just ordered up some new spicer joints for up front so I'll get those installed first and then try it out. Got them for about $47 shipped from Utah and should get them in a few days.
 
Might take a real hard look at the harmonic balancer. They are made in two pieces, and sometimes can start coming apart and the outer ring can slip.
But, I thought we had eliminated the engine as the source some time ago by running it in neutral with no vibration.
 
Might take a real hard look at the harmonic balancer. They are made in two pieces, and sometimes can start coming apart and the outer ring can slip.
But, I thought we had eliminated the engine as the source some time ago by running it in neutral with no vibration.

Yea, correct. I don't think there was any vibration in neutral. I'll double check it though and look at the harmonic balancer just in case....
 
Jeff, has anyone suggested that you put the transfer case in neutral and run the trans through the gears? This will eliminate the trans, input shaft, and input bearings on the t-case from the equation.

Just remember if you do this,
DO NOT PUT IT BACK IN PARK UNTIL YOU SHUT IT OFF AND LET EVERYTHING IN TRANS STOP FIRST.
 
Jeff, has anyone suggested that you put the transfer case in neutral and run the trans through the gears? This will eliminate the trans, input shaft, and input bearings on the t-case from the equation.

Just remember if you do this,
DO NOT PUT IT BACK IN PARK UNTIL YOU SHUT IT OFF AND LET EVERYTHING IN TRANS STOP FIRST.

Chris, great suggestion and I have not tried that yet. Definitely need to pay attention to throttling up and shifting into park in this scenario, as well as the one up on jack stands. Once it's back down to "about idle", I'll just turn the truck off before shifting any gear selector. Appreciate it and I'll give it a shot.
 
Jeff, has anyone suggested that you put the transfer case in neutral and run the trans through the gears? This will eliminate the trans, input shaft, and input bearings on the t-case from the equation.

Just remember if you do this,
DO NOT PUT IT BACK IN PARK UNTIL YOU SHUT IT OFF AND LET EVERYTHING IN TRANS STOP FIRST.

I installed the new Spicer joints for the front driveshaft as well as the CV joint ball/spring joint thing (didn't know about that until I saw it on a youtube video). Anyways, got it installed into the truck but didn't have the opportunity to try it in FWD only.

I did, however try it with the t-case in neutral. Hard to tell the speed but brought the rpms to roughly where I would expect them at 65 MPH (around 2200 rpms) and I did actually feel "some vibration". Not nearly the amount when it goes through the t-case and rear driveshaft, but it was certainly present to a degree. Although I don't know a lot about the internals of the engine, I would guess maybe the flywheel being out of balance or bent?!?

One more thing, when I drove it cold, shortly after startup when the truck was sitting overnight, I didn't notice as much vibration. After driving it around town a bit and then back on the freeway, it was definitely there again.

When I get the truck back from my daughter, I will try the FWD option now that I have the front driveshaft installed. That won't be for a few days though due to her schedule.

I'll post any further results....
 

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