Kain
3/4 ton status
what he said^^
CK5
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New engine
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
I don't see anything but my eyes don't work their best with tiny stuff. Put my readers on and still didn't see anything. My wife didn't see anything as well. I'm sure she saw nothing because she doesn't want me to buy a new engine... so her opinion is doesn't count in my book.
I will run this new oil for a few miles and do this again. You can't run race oil for long anyway.
I don't have the experience you guys have so, I never trust my findings, especially when it comes to this stuff... hahahahaha
Kain
3/4 ton status
used to run 20 50 in my camaro
I've had this for 5 years, I want it gone
Then switch to the Lucas, if needed. hopefully by then the engine will be dead and I can put that stroker in here from. @folkenheath
Then switch to the Lucas, if needed. hopefully by then the engine will be dead and I can put that stroker in here from. @folkenheath
I run that Lucas in my flat tappet 350. Good stuff.
8000 mi on the brand new motor so far no problems.
8000 mi on the brand new motor so far no problems.
I use Amsoil's z-rod oil with the extra zinc.
Ok,
Fired it up with new oil and fresh 8mm plug wires and it's running smoother. Went and got my wife and she said sounds quieter.
So plug 6 was a tad loose. Upon investigating the spark plug was barely screwed in. Now I'm going back to tighten them where needed. Whatever, I'll recheck them all.
Fired it up with new oil and fresh 8mm plug wires and it's running smoother. Went and got my wife and she said sounds quieter.
So plug 6 was a tad loose. Upon investigating the spark plug was barely screwed in. Now I'm going back to tighten them where needed. Whatever, I'll recheck them all.
So I didn't see anything that would support my worries of a cam going flat.
That oil was dirtier than I would expect for a rebuilt motor. Possibly assembly lube changed the color.
Run it. 10w30 is fine either the VR I use or the Lucas I also use.
I have use both 20 w50 and 10 W30 in burb. Prefer 10w30.
That oil was dirtier than I would expect for a rebuilt motor. Possibly assembly lube changed the color.
Run it. 10w30 is fine either the VR I use or the Lucas I also use.
I have use both 20 w50 and 10 W30 in burb. Prefer 10w30.
@Wes Harden The motor was not rebuilt at all...it was disassembled then put on stand for 20 years, with cat hair covered towel over it.
The engine was running when they decided to "restore" it but that never happened. They took it all apart and there it sat since 2002
I just put a new intake, timing chain and cover, fuel pump, accessories, plugs and a new pan..etc etc
I checked compression before doing that and it seemed fine.
The engine was running when they decided to "restore" it but that never happened. They took it all apart and there it sat since 2002
I just put a new intake, timing chain and cover, fuel pump, accessories, plugs and a new pan..etc etc
I checked compression before doing that and it seemed fine.
I don't want hassle with ram horn boomerang heat shield. The plug wire heat shield I have have that damn metal O ring and I can't get them around the 90degree plug end.
Are there other options or can I just cut the ring out?
Are there other options or can I just cut the ring out?
Those Amazon ones look just like the ones I bought that said they would fit over 90° boots. They definitely do not fit over the 8mm wire boots. They had that stupid metal ring in them, I cut it out of one but then it looked like crap and it was all fraid so I said forget it.
Those are the ones I have. I had to cut them for my blazer and they look like shit now, all frayed. I will add, they do work. They just do not look good all cut up.
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I got those and was able to get them to fit over the plug end of the wire but it sucked to do it.
What wizardry did you use, patience or?
Soapy water will help. I thought I saw you were changing the plug wires?
Would be time to route the behind and up.
Ok that makes what I saw in oil drain pan more inline.
Was the cam and lifters removed before or after you got the engine?
Would be time to route the behind and up.
Ok that makes what I saw in oil drain pan more inline.
Was the cam and lifters removed before or after you got the engine?
No idea, i would assume not but I have no idea and neither did or does the previous owner.
The front should be almost closed all the way when it's cold and as it warms up it will progressively open. This is assuming you have an electric choke. When warmed up the blade should be completely vertical.
I do have an electric choke. I can close the blades by hand, moving the throttle and closing it myself. But it has been like this I picked it up after being wired.
Like I said it starts and runs fine but, I noticed no high idle kick down like my Blazer.
