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new guy: PICTURES ADDED

Try disconnecting the negative for a while and let the computer clear, and then re start it so it can relearn all the new parts. Might help with the idle hunting issue.
 
Yeah theres a Sub- "Sub culture" I can think of at least 7 burbs being built/wheeled on our local board!! Nice rig hope to see it up here !
 
Brett68 said:
Changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition module, iac. But didn't get to the tbi gasket. Runs alot better. Still has a "hunt" for idle. I didn't have time to let it completely warm up. It runs so much better. Not rough idle, just a bit of a hunt. The idle is a little higher now. More normal. 800 or so rpms in park and 600 or so in gear.

They were the original wires. What a pain to try replicate the routing. Broke most of the wire clips and resorted to tie wraps.

Brett in Boise
Click to expand...

You really should fit an idle stop screw on the TBI. Without it you are relying on the IAC to keep your minimum idle. Once you get the screw then set the idle speed correct: W/ ignition on motor off, use the paper clip trick to fully extend the IAC (paper clip aross diagnostic port). Unplug the IAC, remove the paper clip and start the motor. Set the idle w/ the IAC unpluged so that it is not altering idle speed. Once you get your idle set that way you should plug in your IAC and all should be good.
 
Thanks! I've got 8 days until I leave for Elk hunting. On my list to do is u-joints(got a clunk/clink when I put it into gear from park), tbi base gasket, a couple more vacuum lines and check differential fluid level. I've learned a bunch here so far. Will keep on coming back. More pics in a couple weeks.

Brett in Boise
 
New tbi base gasket and vacuum lines. Idle is still not right. Seems a bit low and choppy/hunting. In gear it is as low as 450 rpm's. But usually around 550 rpm's. Most of the time when it is cold the idle is fine 750 in park, 650 in gear.

Could the egr be "cracked" open? Seems worse when it is warm.

thanks
Brett in Boise
 
I always replace that temp sensor at the front of the intake problem or not.. They've always caused minor issues with starting, idle, fuel milage. This sensor tells the computer engine temp for fuel mixture and timing. Should only be around $10-$15
Standard Part # TX3
 
Passed emissions with ease today. Allowable HC was 500@2500 I had 64 and at idle I had 84. But it does have a newer catalytic converter too.

Brett in Boise
 
The clunk/clank is gone new u-joints on rear drive shaft. Would like to do the front d-shaft. But I'm running out of time.

Picked up an egr valve today. Didn't have time to install it. Strange though the suburban is running ok today. Weird.

Brett in Boise
 
Brett68 said:
New tbi base gasket and vacuum lines. Idle is still not right. Seems a bit low and choppy/hunting. In gear it is as low as 450 rpm's. But usually around 550 rpm's. Most of the time when it is cold the idle is fine 750 in park, 650 in gear.

Could the egr be "cracked" open? Seems worse when it is warm.

thanks
Brett in Boise
Click to expand...

Did you ever add a throttle stop screw? See my reply post #23
 
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