New LED Headlights for 89-91 models

[Shawn]

Just came across these today and are the correct 150mm size for the 89-91 Blazer/Suburban/Crew. Not cheap. $300 for set of 4 of them but they look decent and bright. Not sure about the black headlight look for mine... I wish they had them in chrome so it looks more factory. Gives the 89-91 quad light owners another option besides the LMC housings which are usually out of stock plus you still have to add brighter LED bulbs.

H4701 H4703 Sealed Beam LED Replacement Headlights (2 Pack)

Brightest HID Kits, Solar Panels, Motorcycle Stands and other Auto Parts!

genssi.com

 

[sweetk30]

about dam time .

 

[1-ton]

Very cool, but a couple of things:

1. The electrical connector looks like an apliance plug. They did not bother to explain what type of pig tail electrical connector has to come with these lights, in order to connect them into your system.

2. When they did a demonstrtaion of these lights they showed all four of them coming on. GM did not design all four lights to come on at the same time, even on the Trans Am they where discussing, unless you custom wired yor vehicle like I did on my 1991 V3500 Crew Cab

Ihave customized the wiring on my truck to have all four lights come on at the same time. I have four high beam lights (PN# 4701) on my truck instead of one set of low beam, and one set of high beam lights. Here is a video of my headlight modification.

 

[Blue85]

It's hard to fork out the bucks to replace glass lenses that last forever with polycarbonate that will haze/fade over time. Plus, the look is really off for a classic. Maybe I should start a little stockpile of halogen bulbs before they're all gone.

 

[sweetk30]

thing i dont like is after having GOOD name brand led units these look like they just toss light out and have no real plan for were it goes . they might work good and not blind people but most of these lower end units with the design there running tend to be the ones blinding on coming vehicles .

 

[Shawn]

Very cool, but a couple of things:

1. The electrical connector looks like an apliance plug. They did not bother to explain what type of pig tail electrical connector has to come with these lights, in order to connect them into your system.

2. When they did a demonstrtaion of these lights they showed all four of them coming on. GM did not design all four lights to come on at the same time, even on the Trans Am they where discussing, unless you custom wired yor vehicle like I did on my 1991 V3500 Crew Cab

Ihave customized the wiring on my truck to have all four lights come on at the same time. I have four high beam lights (PN# 4701) on my truck instead of one set of low beam, and one set of high beam lights. Here is a video of my headlight modification.

I don't mind the plug as long as it connects well and provides a water tight seal. The stock headlight plug and headlights have tiny terminals which I don't care for when you have 65 watt bulbs. The LED's are going to take much less wattage. Mine are 12k Lumen and take 36 watts. I have mine on relays and have both come come on with high beams. It shoots out a good amount of light with the LMC housings. I realize GM did not design to have 4 come on which I think is stupid but maybe a DOT requirement or some BS law. The other reason could be too much wattage for the stock headlight harness. Anyone that runs quad lights SHOULD always modify the headlight harness with relays so that both turn on running high beams. When they did the demo, they did show the low beam by itself then with the high beam which I would rather see since thats how you should wire quad lights for optimum light output.

It's hard to fork out the bucks to replace glass lenses that last forever with polycarbonate that will haze/fade over time. Plus, the look is really off for a classic. Maybe I should start a little stockpile of halogen bulbs before they're all gone.

Most cars these days run poly lenses which you can polish out with a 3m kit. I've seen the glass ones pitted up too from gravel which can't be polished out but they are super cheap to replace so why bother. I just don't care for the light output on Halogen these days. They do make some better Halogen replacements that do help and the lumen rating is higher than stock. I do agree about these do not belong if you want to keep it more stock looking. The LMC housing would be a better look.

thing i dont like is after having GOOD name brand led units these look like they just toss light out and have no real plan for were it goes . they might work good and not blind people but most of these lower end units with the design there running tend to be the ones blinding on coming vehicles .

I kind of like the beam cut off on these if you watch the video and the light output looks great. I don't think would blind anyone if aimed correctly. The REAL issue is when people run cheap LED bulbs that are not in the proper OEM filament location and the mirror reflector makes it worse with glare with on-coming cars and throws it the wrong place. Thats why its crucial to have LED bulbs with exact lighting where the stock filament would be like in the picture below.


One issue you guys failed to mention in colder climates is snow. Most LEDs will never get warm enough to melt the snow off the lenses. This can make driving in a blizzard at night a huge problem. You would have to pull off and clear them every so often. Some expensive Jeep LED lights have a super thin heating element in the lens. Just wanted to point that out. Happened on my m1008 with LED housings when I was driving it in a good snow storm during the day.

 

[sweetk30]

I have j.w. speaker heated lens units .

 

[ZooMad75]

$300 for the set? Not for me. I'm still less into converting my 4 headlight setup to a 2 headlight setup even with the cost of the core support, grille/bezels, composite housings with projector beams, and 3 sided led bulbs.

Plus the look of those don't look "right" to me on one of our trucks. A firechicken sure. But it's not the look I want.

As far as the plugs go, the stock halogen bulbs take a different plug that the LMC relay harness uses. I the new bulbs take the more standard H4 plug you can get easy replacements at AutoZone or on Amazon for ceramic that handle the heat the terminals are going to see.

 

[Shawn]

$300 for the set? Not for me. I'm still less into converting my 4 headlight setup to a 2 headlight setup even with the cost of the core support, grille/bezels, composite housings with projector beams, and 3 sided led bulbs.

Plus the look of those don't look "right" to me on one of our trucks. A firechicken sure. But it's not the look I want.

As far as the plugs go, the stock halogen bulbs take a different plug that the LMC relay harness uses. I the new bulbs take the more standard H4 plug you can get easy replacements at AutoZone or on Amazon for ceramic that handle the heat the terminals are going to see.

I agree they are not cheap. LMC comes close when you add brighter bulbs. $160 for the 4 housings and $100 for 4 GOOD LED bulbs. Total $260 plus shipping from LMC. You might be able to skimp a little on the LED bulbs but its hit or miss. And yes, these are not for the originalist. Maybe if you want that black out look... Just giving another option on lighting. The LMC uses 9005/9006 bulbs and come with adapters. I didn't like the adapters so I hard wired mine with water tight connectors. I would imagine these come plugs/adapters that make it easy to wire up but I would ditch the stock GM plug and hardwire it for best connection. I wired up my own relay harness which I drew out on my project page.

 

[fordsucks!]

Those LED headlights look awful. Chinese plastic on a classic USA truck. EVen if the light output was bright with a crisp cut-off line, which it isn't, no way.

 

[1-ton]

don't mind the plug as long as it connects well and provides a water tight seal. The stock headlight plug and headlights have tiny terminals which I don't care for when you have 65 watt bulbs. The LED's are going to take much less wattage. Mine are 12k Lumen and take 36 watts. I have mine on relays and have both come come on with high beams. It shoots out a good amount of light with the LMC housings. I realize GM did not design to have 4 come on which I think is stupid but maybe a DOT requirement or some BS law. The other reason could be too much wattage for the stock headlight harness. Anyone that runs quad lights SHOULD always modify the headlight harness with relays so that both turn on running high beams. When they did the demo, they did show the low beam by itself then with the high beam which I would rather see since thats how you should wire quad lights for optimum light output.

I thought the appliance style plug was kind of cool..if that is the way they actually come, and was not just a modification for the video. I have my inside lights on my 1991 V3500 Crew Cab connected to a seperate system as well using a relay. I used an old style floor switch to activate my inside lights while the outside lights are on the stock wiring system. I had both a 1970 SS Chevelle, and a 1970 Buick GS 455 Skylark back in the late 70's to late 80's that had quaud headlights that all four came on at the same time from the factory.

 

[bu2chlc]

Very cool, but a couple of things:

1. The electrical connector looks like an apliance plug. They did not bother to explain what type of pig tail electrical connector has to come with these lights, in order to connect them into your system.

2. When they did a demonstrtaion of these lights they showed all four of them coming on. GM did not design all four lights to come on at the same time, even on the Trans Am they where discussing, unless you custom wired yor vehicle like I did on my 1991 V3500 Crew Cab

Ihave customized the wiring on my truck to have all four lights come on at the same time. I have four high beam lights (PN# 4701) on my truck instead of one set of low beam, and one set of high beam lights. Here is a video of my headlight modification.

how did you figure out the low+high beam wiring? It looks great! (and sounds really nice too!)

 

[1-ton]

how did you figure out the low+high beam wiring? It looks great! (and sounds really nice too!)

I cut the high beam wire going to the plunger style column style dimmer switch (dark blue wire IIRC) then connected that to an old style flloor dimmer switch (drilled and mounted that to the floor) as the hot going out to the inside high beams. Then connected a hot wire from the fuse panel accessery slot to to the old fasion floor switch to power the old style floor switch. Then ran the blue power wire to the inside high beams to a 4-pin relay through the inside high beams to power the whole thing. Hopefully not too complicated.

 

[dyeager535]

I cut the high beam wire going to the plunger style column style dimmer switch (dark blue wire IIRC) then connected that to an old style flloor dimmer switch (drilled and mounted that to the floor) as the hot going out to the inside high beams. Then connected a hot wire from the fuse panel accessery slot to to the old fasion floor switch to power the old style floor switch. Then ran the blue power wire to the inside high beams to a 4-pin relay through the inside high beams to power the whole thing. Hopefully not too complicated.

Any reason you did it this way instead of making the changes near the headlight plug where the wires connect to the headlight?

I've figured I'll cut the stock wiring off at the left headlights, and use the high/low wires from the headlight switch/dimmer to control two relays (one high, one low). With four high/low capable bulbs, all high and all low wires would be tied together.

Only wiring needing added/upgraded at that point would be the 12v battery feed to the relays. As far as I can tell, the stock wirings weak point is from the switch/dimmer to the core support, since the wiring diameter is pushing it for the load it should see. Ignoring the age issue on all the wiring, and the fact if going LED the draw is comparatively so minimal to the original halogens (which I figured draw approximately 15A) that it's probably no issue.

 

[1-ton]

Any reason you did it this way instead of making the changes near the headlight plug where the wires connect to the headlight?

The dark Blue high beam wire on the main off/on headlight switch recieves power before the dark Blue high beam wire on the dimmer switch. I decided to tap into the dark Blue high beam wire at the dimmer switch, which is down the line from the main off/on headlight switch.

 

[Clark75K5]

@Shawn what LED bulbs did you go with? The ones I got are "hikari" brand and likely what most would call "cheap". They seem to just fling light out.
I was considering the Philips LED bubs, they're around $140 for 2. I have the LMC lenses for low beams.

 

[Blue85]

Has anybody tried using H4701 bulbs as low beams by aiming them lower, then using LMC high beam housings with brighter bulbs for hi beams? Just wondering because that cuts the conversion cost in half (or makes it 2 separate stages), but maybe they look stupid side by side.

The LMC housings look sort of like originals - at least they don't look like ricer gear, but the bulbs aren't much brighter than the original sealed beams on paper. They're all in the 55/65W range.

9006: 1000
9005: 1500
H4703: 1000
H4701: 1200

 

[Blue85]

I also see these on eBay which appear to be stock sealed beams modified to take LED bulbs. I've also heard of combining a sealed beam glass lens (which is thicker than the aftermarket lenses) with an aftermarket back half, so that could be what these are. They have both the high and low beams.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/403407210935
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115188111465

Also, there are some H4-bulb conversion high-beam housings on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/143462860987

Here's the post with the part numbers: https://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/...-upgrades-bosch-t84-e-code-headlights.182354/

 

[ZooMad75]

If I’m not mistaken the last eBay link for the H4 conversion are really just euro spec bulbs not sold here in the us. The same guy has been selling those on eBay for a while. I’m not sure where he’s digging them up from.

 

[CT-BLAZER]

My search for component 150 mm bulbs was thin + expensive...

There were more options in the past.... Supplies dried up.

European spec Hella lights were expensive+ hard to find . . . . I wanted 100 or 150 watt PIAA bulbs in a Hella or Cibie crystal glass housing..

LMC....Chinese...pass

Lots of options for 4" x 6". Lights.....pondered putting four of these in my 1990 Silverado Blazer., Figured that sanding + cutting the plastic Bezels would give room for bigger lights

As I recall, research showed the reflectors in the 150 mm bulb, were a compromise compared to the larger sized lamps.