It's loud, but it is effective.
Martin
Martin
CK5
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New life for an old GI, 1984 Chevy M1028
- Thread starter kennyw
- Start date
It's starting to look like real progress.
I started off painting the #offroaddesign FUSH. While that was drying, I moved on crossover but soon realized I should rebuild the kingpins while I'm in here so ordered those parts and put that piece on pause.
Next up, borrowed a 1.875 dia hole saw from a friend but still needed to make a last minute run for a 2" diameter hole saw after dinner. Using the double hole saw trick, i was able to drill out the frame holes to fit the FUSH after minor cleanup with a dremel. Then opened up the main mounting holes to 1/2" to bolt everything into the frame.
Next up, install the HD shackles and larger rear bushings on the front springs. Then, bolt in the front springs.
I started off painting the #offroaddesign FUSH. While that was drying, I moved on crossover but soon realized I should rebuild the kingpins while I'm in here so ordered those parts and put that piece on pause.
Next up, borrowed a 1.875 dia hole saw from a friend but still needed to make a last minute run for a 2" diameter hole saw after dinner. Using the double hole saw trick, i was able to drill out the frame holes to fit the FUSH after minor cleanup with a dremel. Then opened up the main mounting holes to 1/2" to bolt everything into the frame.
Next up, install the HD shackles and larger rear bushings on the front springs. Then, bolt in the front springs.
A little more progress installing front shocks and bolting up the front axle.
I bought the shocks used a while back and realized they are missing the steel sleeves inside the river bushings and had to go digging through my spare parts bins. I managed to find two sleeves close enough to finish up installing the front shocks. I'll need to dig up 4 more for the rear.
I bought the shocks used a while back and realized they are missing the steel sleeves inside the river bushings and had to go digging through my spare parts bins. I managed to find two sleeves close enough to finish up installing the front shocks. I'll need to dig up 4 more for the rear.
MAW kicked in and I ordered king pin rebuild kits then got stuck needing to order a new bearing nut spanner as I only had a homemade 6 tab version. That finally arrived yesterday. This week I'll pull everything apart to replace bearings and seals as needed.
Lolz_cats
Uga duga
Beats a scew driver or punch
I am no longer a broke 16 year old working on my first truck...
I found a spin on filter conversion using GM parts for the oil burner in your life.
GM Spin On Fuel Filter Conversion
Went to do a spin on fuel filter conversion on one of my M1008 CUCVs. Everything we found online seemed to be chopped up & incomplete in regards to a parts list and how to. So Im going to give you a start to finish picture scenario along with a complete parts list. 1st picture - on the left...
www.steelsoldiers.com
I like my 6.2 being an '83 it has a spin on filter on the firewall already instead of the square style. I think it was a one or two year only thing maybe.
1982-83 actually have two spin on filters, one on firewall and one on the back of the intake. I have one of those laying around as well but those early ones put the water in fuel sensor in the fuel sender and there are no replacements available if you are wanting to keep that feature.
The newer spin-on option includes the water in fuel sensor and similar wiring based on that write up.
I have never had a water in fuel light cone on in the 15 years I've had my blazer. I do run additive and really have only put 5-10k on it in that time. That stupid one behind the intake sucks. Similar to a 6.5 if I remember correctly. I just remove the whole thing to change it. Some day if I ever do fuel system mods I'm thinking a carter cummins style pump and a couple fleetguard/napa filter heads and run filters like an FS1000 for a water separator I think then maybe a Cat
1R-0749 2 micron main filter or parts store equivalent for both.
1R-0749 2 micron main filter or parts store equivalent for both.
Since we are talking about diesel fuel systems, how does that drain valve thing on the frame back by the fuel tank work on a diesel k5?
I believe it is used with compressed air to bleed the fuel system. I've always pulled the return line off the IP and used 15-20 psi air pressure to pressurize the tank and push fuel up to the IP.
More stuff coming apart for a rebuild. Overall things look good but the grease is old enough to start getting solid.
More progress and another setback. While I'm waiting on front end parts and tools, I started the rear springs. One of the center bolts was stripped though. So my progress stopped at the halfway point.
Those are some really flat threads.
Rear suspension is back togetherish... I still need to do the final torque on everything and trim excess bolt length. However, i want to get the front together and be sure i do not need an extra inch to level it before going to the final torque on u-bolts.
Not the final, final torque. I know I usually need to retorque mine 3 or 4 times after.
I have to drive it again to do the final, final torque.
I spent a good chunk of the day today working on this one. I saved the of bushings out of the rear shocks because the second hand Bilstien shocks did not have metal bushings. Got them all cleaned up only to find they do not fit the new shocks. They actually fit well without a metal sleeve so I wrapped up installing shocks.
After that, back to the front axle. I picked up a parts washer and put it to work cleaning up parts to rebuild the passenger side. I found the wheel bearings show signs of wear and should be replaced so those are ordered.
The knuckle fought me to get the lower kingpin apart but I won in the end without damaging anything. Cleaned the lower bearings and repacked them and reinstalled with new seals. The top end got a new kingpin and springless steering arm installed.
After that, back to the front axle. I picked up a parts washer and put it to work cleaning up parts to rebuild the passenger side. I found the wheel bearings show signs of wear and should be replaced so those are ordered.
The knuckle fought me to get the lower kingpin apart but I won in the end without damaging anything. Cleaned the lower bearings and repacked them and reinstalled with new seals. The top end got a new kingpin and springless steering arm installed.
I had the day off for work so I drove south to get parts for finishing up the crossover.
