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new member has driveline questions. help please!!!

Blue85 said:
Wow, this looks like a great product, but I'm wondering what they center on. Is it located precisely enough to compensate for worn centering tabs or is the only advantage greater strength? It certainly is cheaper than replacing a yoke.
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i think they're designed just for greater strength. i still need to replace my yoke either way. i found that the stock style clips don't always lay flush across the u joint cap, leaving uneven tension spots if not tightened correctly, which i'm assuming will promote yoke wear. those blocks would be a good investment, especially if you're taking your drive shaft out a lot.
 
also, i think i'm gonna go ahead and put the blocks back in, but this time i'll be using 2" tapered ones. shouldn't have a problem there ah?
 
There is a huge problem with those caps posted. They rub bad when you flex out. If you use them check carefully through the entire range of your suspension.
 
Yeah, good point. They must be intended for drag cars or pull trucks.
 
where i'm on a budget i'll probably just get new o.e. style straps.

if i go with 2" tapered lift blocks in the rear only does anyone think that would throw off my drive line geometry?
 
They are designed to replace the straps, you simply drill out the threads in the yoke. As for centering, as long as you use the proper drill bit the tapered holes in the yoke center the drill, then the girdles hold on the edges. Eric is right though, I could see them getting hit during high flex situations, but for normal street driving on a fairly stock vehicle they should work fine.

Again, I bought a set to use on Krusty, but haven't actually installed them. Just checking through it my thought was they would be fine with the limited flex that my truck is capable of with stock suspension. As far as strength, these are solid aluminum blocks with heavy duty bolts going through the girdle and the yoke, providing a much stronger u-joint lock than straps and a tiny ear.
 
indeed. anyone on here have a set of used tapered lift blocks they'd like to get rid of? can't post in classifieds yet...i am paypal ready though.
 
If the yoke is the problem, nothing but replacing it will help.

Unfortunately, replacing the yoke isn't as simple as unbolting it and putting the new one on. The crush sleeve is held in compression by that nut and once you take the nut off you lose that. The short run down is that you can ruin the whole rear end very quickly (within a few miles) if that part isn't put back together correctly and the correct way to do it requires disassembling the entire diff. There are "easier" ways to replace that yoke but you're always crossing your fingers.
 
38377k5 said:
If the yoke is the problem, nothing but replacing it will help.

Unfortunately, replacing the yoke isn't as simple as unbolting it and putting the new one on. The crush sleeve is held in compression by that nut and once you take the nut off you lose that. The short run down is that you can ruin the whole rear end very quickly (within a few miles) if that part isn't put back together correctly and the correct way to do it requires disassembling the entire diff. There are "easier" ways to replace that yoke but you're always crossing your fingers.
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Even more so in a 10 bolt that is stressed with larger tires.

BUT it my require a disassembly but not a reset of the gear pattern. So while it may be a daunting task it is certainly do able. Unfortunately one of the most expensive tools associated with gear setups is the one you need to set pinion bearing preload. It can be done with a beam type torque wrench though which is not expensive at all
 
I wouldn't say that dissassembly is mandatory. If you use a torque wrench and keep it reasonable, you can get the yoke on without changing preload. The pinion nut is supposed to be staked anyway. I've replaced leaky pinion seals without a complete teardown with no problems. Granted, with reusing the yoke you can just put the nut back to the same position. But, if somebody doesn't have much experience with differentials, they are probably better off going a little light on the pinion nut torque than tearing everything apart.

But this is just one opinion...
 
Many a yoke has been replaced without redoing the crush sleeve. Would I do it yes cause I have. But there is a right way and that involves replacing the crush sleeve
 
fmstruck said:
Did you just use a straight block? The blocks that come in a lift kit are ground at an angle to help alleviate this problem.
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ok i found this post at http://www.blazerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41596 with almost identical issue as mine. at the end he says:
Actually I got it close but not perfect. I made some modifications that I didn't need to and that hopefully you haven't made. What you need to do is take your tapered blocks back and get straight or flat blocks and try that before you make any adjustments. That will keep the tcase angle and the pinnion angle the same. That came from the help of 515blazer. I went the round about way and if I had about three pages and 4 hours I'd try to explain everything that I did to get it driveable.
so i guess i'm confused. should i throw my flat blocks back in or buy tapered ones?
 
There is no cut and dry answer to what you need. There is a theoretical way to make the u-joint angles "match" but they were only intended to operate at angles of a few degrees or less, your lifted K5 is probably at least 15.

There is a good explanation here, the only way to fix it for sure is a CV driveshaft. Other than that, you just have to play with the balance of making the angles equal and minimizing the angle at each end.
 
starting to get a better understanding here..
the yoke was definitely bad but a lot of the vibes were from the blocks too.
so then basically i need to get my pinion and my transfer case angled so they're facing each other? if that's the case i should be able to achieve this with tapered blocks in the back and possibly lowering the transfer case a little bit, right? and as for lowering the transfer case, can i just use washers and longer bolts? what i've been thinking of is 2" blocks in the back and then probably a 2" body lift, would look good with my 33's.
 
hey everyone just a little update for anyone who's interested:
i got my new yoke in, it's a 1350 so i also needed a combination u joint, because the old one was a 1310. i had the shop down the road put it on because of all the controversy with the crush sleeve, but i asked them and they said they just indexed it. and actually for anyone who needs to do this in the future, i found the haynes manual says indexing the yoke works fine for replacement.
also got my 2" cast tapered lift blocks but will most likely hold off on that for a while. i was kind of wondering if anyone has done this before (in the back only) and what their experience was, but i'm pretty sure to get rid of all vibrations i will probably have to lower the transfer case as well. the only thing i have been noticing now is a pretty good 'clunk' when throwing it in reverse or drive from park. is this normal, or is something wore out? it's a pretty bad clunk...
 
just incase anyone plans on doing this in the future, the 2" cast tapered blocks work excellent. got them in last week when it wasn't so cold out. no vibrations at all! :waytogo: and that clunk from shifting from park is due to no rear brakes.
 
baker440ex said:
basically i need to get my pinion and my transfer case angled so they're facing each other?
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It looks like this is solved, but I wanted to clarify for others:

You don't make them face each other (0 degrees in the U-joints). You make them parallel to each other (equal angles in the U-joints). But in real life, the rear pinion should be like 1-2 degrees lower than this, unless you have an anti-wrap mechanism of some kind.
 
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